Enter here to win the Zodiac Grandrally brown leather strap/silver dial w/ blue sub dials shown above. Deadline for entry is 11:59 PM ET on 12/11/18. One entry per person. A huge thanks to Zodiac for providing us with this Grandrally for review then giveaway!
Tis the season. And by now you’ve probably been walloped over the head by 82,000 gift guides. So what’s a few more? Instead of doing a highly generalized, throw-everything-against-the-digital-wall gift guide, we’ll be breaking it up by category. Gifts for the guy who likes watches. Or the rugged type. Or the guy who’s really into shoes. Etc. We’ll cover all those, and hopefully a few more in the coming days. A Tipped Pocket Square: The Tie Bar – $11.99Tipped pocket squares are great, because while the base is a dependable white linen or cotton, it’s the edges that bring a bit of color and personality. Think about what squares you’ve seen him wear. Does he have a preferred color? Have you seen him wear a tipped one before, with that color as its border? No? Then there’s the one to get. Wide Shouldered Suit/Sportcoat/Blazer Hangers – $29.99 / 6pkIs it the sexiest gift? No. But wide shouldered hangers are gold, GOLD Jerry!… to a guy who loves to wear suits, sportcoats, and blazers. A Kent Clothes Brush $36 – $180Sure, those sticky rollers are great for quick jobs or more casual clothes… but if he really likes his suits and sportcoats, he might think twice before taking and adhesive roller to it. That’s where clothes brushes come in. They’re specifically designed to lift dirt and hair out and up from a suit’s fabric, without damaging the weave. Kent makes terrific clothes brushes. Shown above is an older model of the two sided (soft/stiff) bristle brush. Made in the USA Brass Money Clip – $38.00Guys in suits often carry slimmed down wallets, or, a card case and money clip combo. Here’s a money clip suggestion. Made in Brooklyn. Great angles. Also available in a black oxide in case he’s less of a bling dude. Enormous fan of these money clips. UNIQLO Extra Fine Merino Turtleneck – $39.90Some of us can pull off a turtleneck with a suit. Others of us just simply cannot. If you or the guy you’re shopping for is the former, then try UNIQLO. Get a size that fits slim, but not cling-wrap slim. The lightweight merino wool is perfect for layering (easily) under a suit jacket, and the neck isn’t submarine captain bulky. Far from it. That, and they’re washable. So if you perspire a bit, thinking about how DEAD SEXY YOU LOOK in your turtleneck & suit combo, you can easily wash it when you get home. Spier & Mackay 100% Merino Scarves – $48Scarves are a little like sunglasses and gloves. Trimming down when suited up is usually the best case. Big, thick mufflers can sometimes look a little out of place. Not always, but sometimes. These 100% merino scarves from Spier & Mackay are just the ticket. Refined even. Rowenta DR8080 Handheld Garment and Fabric Steamer – $58.79Quite an impressive handheld steamer. Some handheld steamers just flat out don’t do the job well. They spit water or hard water deposits, they’re awkward to hold, and/or the water reservoir runs out quickly. That’s not the case on any level with this super well made, easy to wield, plenty of water in the tank steamer. The dry cleaner can be terrible on suits, sportcoats, and blazers. The less trips there the better. So unless it’s soiled or it’s starting to stink, release the wrinkles with this and be on your way. Coach Card Case in Leather & Signature Canvas – $75What was that about card cases and money clips? There are a LOT of weird, or just flat out tacky looking card cases out there. Skip the plastic ID window versions and go with something simple. Not cheap (nothing at Coach is), but the branding here is subtle. Too spendy? Try this from Hook & Albert, or one of these (when on sale) via Banana Republic. Kent Wang Made in Italy Grenadine Necktie – $75Skip giving him cheap ties. If the guy on your list wears suits a lot… he knows where to get cheap ties. Instead, if he’s been extra nice this year, opt for a splurge tie. Like this classic, silk grenadine tie from Kent Wang. Solid in color but with that unmistakable texture. Made in Italy. And unlike cheap ties, the construction and quality/weight of fabric makes it tie easier, and drape better. A really nice, large resevoir steamer: Rowenta Master Valet – $129For the guy who wears suits a LOT. Going with a professional style steamer like this one is the way to go if you can spend the dough. Steam will release those wrinkles and freshen up your duds, so you can go longer between dry-cleanings. Persol PO 714 Folding Sunglasses – $150ishA classic that looks as good with a suit and tie as it does with a t-shirt and jeans. Benefit of these though, while suited, is that they fold up nice and compact, and don’t take up much room in an interior jacket pocket. Less bulk/jacket bulge the better. 54mm should fit most average head sizes. 52mm is for the smaller guys or ladies. Unmistakable, key-hole bridge shape. Ledbury Fine Twill Semi Spread Collar Dress Shirt – $145Bar none, the best dress shirt (& collar if you go with the mid-spread) to wear when going tieless in a suit. Perfectly placed, slightly lowered second button. Terrific fabrics and construction. Yes, they’re an investment. And be warned. You might hook the guy on Ledbury if you give him one of these. They’re also currently running a tiered promotion, but one of these comes right in under the first tier ($150). FormFunctionForm FFFolio Legal Brief – $238One beautiful piece of high functioning leather. Will put those crummy Office Depot sourced folios to shame. Laser cut from a single piece of thick 5-6oz Horween leather. Designed to hold technology (dimensions are specfic to a 12″ iPad Pro (with attached keyboard) or a 13″ MacBook Pro), a legal pad, pen slot, optional Apple Pencil slot, and a nifty little place to store business cards. Hand beveled, stitched, and burnished. Available in 4 shades of leather, including the show-stopper CXL #8 burgundy. Hook & Albert Project 11 Garment Weekender – $416.50 w/ FAMILY ($595)Oh man. Check out that leather beauty. I think… THINK Hook & Albert were one of the first (if not the first?) to perfect this design? Instead of folding your suit in half like a traditional garment bag would, this one rolls it, which makes heavy creases less likely. It’s also thoughtfully designed to store those necessary extras like shirts and shoes. Spier & Mackay Wool/Cashmere Double Breasted Topcoats – $498For the EXTRA nice. Because wearing a ski parka over a really nice suit is a bit of a sartorial cataclysm. Was just $100 off. Fingers crossed that they go back on sale again. 85% wool and 15% cashmere. The Dappered Gift Guide for… The Tailored/Suited Guy published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr The Dappered Gift Guide for… The Tailored/Suited Guy
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Zodiac Grandrally – $495 – $595Regular readers will know that we’re suckers for well designed, moto-inspired wristwatches around these parts. And hoooo-boy does Zodiac nail it with their Grandrally. Swiss Made and balancing the convenience (and not exorbitant price) of a quartz movement, with the feel of a mechanical chronograph, the Grandrally gives you a ton of the look and feel of Tag’s iconic Monaco, without the monster price tag. The cushion case is gorgeous. Really sets it apart from the standard circular case sport watches out there, and the layout of the dial is perfect. Two contrasting sub dials at 3 and 9, and a rectangular date window at 6, calms the nerves of those of us who love symmetry. But the watch isn’t some wearable piece of muted zen. It unabashedly says “I’d like to mash the accelerator. Please.” More contrast with the blue outer tachymeter ring and the orange seconds hand is an overt tip of the cap to motorsport watches from the 60s and 70s. As is the comfortable leather strap with the topside ridges. The movement seems to be a Swiss version (the ISA SWISS 8371?) of the popular Seiko Mecha Quartz? The pushers are snappy like a mechanical, and the orange seconds hand has that ultra precise, elegant sweep, instead of clunkily trudging along like standard quartz chronos. Case size is 41.5 mm x 48 mm but wears like a medium sized watch. Should fit most average sized wrists perfectly. Water resistance is 100m. Presentation is quite nice, with a wood box and suede-like interior. This is a rare one. It’s the rare watch that should satisfy both sides of the quartz vs. mechanical/automatic divide. Even those that find themselves gravitating towards automatic/mechanical watches could find themselves pining after one of these. And being that at its heart, it’s a quartz, it won’t leave those lusting after one broke for months. Win It: The Zodiac Grandrally published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Win It: The Zodiac Grandrally Zappos: Levi’s 511 Slim Fit Jeans – $33.36 w/ EXTRA20Zappos is running an extremely limited, extra 20% off select sale items code today. Oddly enough the Levi’s 511, which is of their most popular fits, is included. These are a true slim. There’s the 511 slim, and then there’s the 510 skinny. I don’t know if they do anything tighter than the 510, but if they do, good luck to those that wear them (and their junk). But the 511 does have some room. Not much. But some. Sorry my fellow thick legged, big booty brethren. These are not the jeans you are looking for. Anyway, they’re currently marked down to around forty bucks. The extra twenty percent off knocks them down to $33. Not bad, especially considering that they ship and return for free since it’s Zappos. I think if you create an account with them you get super fast shipping for free too? Also up for this sale is Red Wing’s 6″ Moc Toe in “copper rough and tough” leather. Code knocks those American made beauties down to $185.60. Not bad for first quality Red Wings. So if you’re going for the hipster lumberjack meets Star Wars AT-ST look, you can complete it all in one fell swoop on Zappos during this sale. Code EXTRA20 expires today, 12/10. That’s all. Carry on. Also on sale, also up for the extra 20% off. Down to $186 through today, 12/10. Steal Alert: Levi’s 511 Dark Wash Jeans for $33.36 with Free Shipping published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Steal Alert: Levi’s 511 Dark Wash Jeans for $33.36 with Free Shipping Allen Edmonds x Three Kings Studio – $445“A collaboration like no other. Custom designed, exclusively for Allen Edmonds”
I really hate to be critical because brands like Allen Edmonds have got to try new things to keep their customer base young. If they don’t? They end up becoming Sears. I love Allen Edmonds. I also, for myself, am pro-Tattoos. And if this is what it takes to keep Allen Edmonds making their Strand, Dalton, Liverpool, McAllister, Fifth Avenue, and various other classics (and more modern but still timeless styles) in Port Washington Wisconsin? Then so be it. I feel like if Mr. Grangaard was still at the company, these might not have happened. I dunno guys. Am I wrong here? Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post’s poll.Allen Edmonds new Tattoo Shoes: A reaction in two .gifs published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Allen Edmonds new Tattoo Shoes: A reaction in two .gifs In recent years, cuffs, also known as turn-ups, have somewhat fallen out of favor with mainstream men. At the same time, it’s a very classic look that has been around for a long time and will likely also be a part of classic men’s wardrobe for the foreseeable future. Basically, it is a folded edge at the hem at the bottom and it looks like a turned-up edge that it’s added to the pant leg. Traditionally, a cuff is not cut but simply folded from excess fabric at the bottom hem. Because of that, if you will let out the cuffs, you could always create a longer pair of pants or trousers. When you do that, you usually don’t have enough fabric left to put a cuff back on. In that case, you simply add a faux cuff meaning it is cut separately and then sewn on to give you a little more extra room when you’re short on fabric. For bespoke trousers or suits, you sometimes also see angled cuffs which is more difficult to do and they are always faux cuffs because you cannot have a continuous piece of fabric with a faux cuff. The benefit of the angled cuff is that you don’t have a break in the front, at the same time, the back part of the trouser leg reaches almost the heel which is very pleasing. You also reveal more of the shoe. On the formality scale, cuffed trousers are always less formal than pants without cuffs. History Of Turn-UpsHistorically, the origins of cuffs stemmed from a time where you would turn up the bottom hem of your trouser in muddy weather. In 1890, the then Prince of Wales who later became King Edward the seventh introduced the permanent turn-up which was there just for fashion reasons and was not a necessity due to outside weather conditions. Cuffed pants became the norm for businesswear between the 1890s and the 1940s. During World War II, there was a fabric shortage and so it was decided to forego the cuff or the turn-up so you could save on a fabric and create more garments instead. Ever since the 1950s, cuffed trousers have gone in and out of fashion but over the years, they’ve always remained, they’ve always come back and likely they will always come back even though they might not be super fashionable at this point in time. By the way, the British refer to cuffs as things you have on your sleeve versus on the pants or trousers, they’re called turn-ups. Sometimes Savile Row tailors also call them PTUs or permanent turn-ups. At the end of the day, they’re all the same. ![]() Raphael Employing Spezzato with a Suit Jacket and Matching Vest with Contrasting Yellow Pants with cuffs and Brown Oxfords When Do You Typically See Cuffs On Trouser Hems?You definitely see them in suits and in Italy, I’d say the majority of suits will have the cuff. They’re also popular in white-collar professions with lawyers, bankers, and the like. Cuffs can help to make a suit silhouette look more grounded especially when you have vertical stripes such as a pinstripe or a rope stripe. In terms of the seasons, you can find cuffs anywhere from flannel suits or tweed suits all the way up to summery seersucker suits. In the collegiate realm, cuffs are favored by people who are interested in trad style. On the other hand, if you’re more a follower of the preppy style, you’re more likely to just manually turn-up your uncuffed pants. ![]() Very tall cuff and very short pants – if the pants would have touched the shoe it would have been perfect Cuffs are also often a feature on odd trousers or slacks that are worn to the office. Just think of the typical gray flannel pants with a navy blazer, for example, or other office outfits that are a bit more serious. When it comes to casual pants, you still may encounter turn-ups on chinos or khakis even though you can also find them without cuffs. When it comes to traditional workwear such as denim or jeans, you will not find a cuff because that would simply be impractical. In this day and age, a cuff on a pair of jeans would simply look weird. That aside, you can also find cuffs on shorts, typically, they make it a little less formal so for most shorts, I don’t think they’re appropriate but it is an option that exists. To Cuff Or Not To Cuff?That is the question! The bottom line is cuffs or turn-ups are optional and it’s a personal style choice. For example in my suit collection, I have a bunch of suits with cuffs that are a little more casual, at the same time, I have three-piece suits that don’t feature cuffs whereas others do feature cuffs. The big advantage of cuffs is that it adds a bit more weight to the bottom part of your pants thus creating a nicer drape or hang of the trouser especially if you have pleated pants. Of course, they also can help to create a visual balance, for example, for double-breasted suits or vertically striped suits. Cuffs definitely give you a slightly more traditional look and if you want a contemporary look with a slim fit, oftentimes, it’s better to forego the cuff for a cleaner silhouette. That being said, there’s one area where cuffs and turn-ups are always unacceptable from a historical point of view and that is formal wear. So you’ll never see cuffs on a proper tuxedo, a black tie ensemble, a white tie ensemble, or a morning coat. Likewise, you also won’t encounter it with a stroller suit. So if you’re buying trousers that are not for a formal occasion, should you add cuffs or not? At the end of the day, if you’re undecided, I always argue in favor of cuffs because you can always have them very easily removed at the alterations tailor. Think of it as an additional fabric that allows you to be creative with the size of your cuff but if you don’t like it, you can always get rid of it. On the flip side, if you decide against cuffs from the get-go and you later realize that the fabric is too flimsy and you would like to have a cuff in there, it’s very difficult to add one back on because most of the time, there’s not enough fabric left even for a faux cuff. How To Wear Cuffs WellFirst of all, for a true cuff, you always need a plain hem and you want the front just to slightly touch the top of your shoe. In general, cuffs look best if they just slightly touch your shoe without creating a deep break or any puddling around your ankle. So when in doubt, a cuffed pair of pants is always slightly shorter than an uncuffed pair of pants. Having too much excess fabric at the ankle paired with a cuff can just look sloppy. Also, if your pants have cuffs as well as pleats, the break can interrupt the nice crease and the nice line of the pair of trousers. When you wear dress boots, make sure that the pants have enough space so they go over the boot and don’t just get caught on it, otherwise, you always have some puddling going on that’s very unsightly. In terms of cuff size, there is again no right or wrong. Historically, there has been anything from under one inch to all the way up to two and a half even three inches. As with most things in menswear, it pays to stay in the middle which is typically between one and a half inches or two inches. In the metric system, that’s about 3.5 or 3.75 centimeters and 5 centimeters. According to Alan Flusser, a traditional cuff size is 1 and 5/8 of an inch for men who are 5’10” or shorter. If you are taller than that, you should go with an inch and ¾. Personally, I like it slightly larger so sometimes I have a two-inch cuff or slightly smaller something that’s also slightly bigger but it definitely is a bit more noticeable and if you want to go for a classic look, this guideline hits the nail on the head. Of course, you can also pay attention to other aspects in your suit. Let’s say you have very wide lapels, you should not have a very slim cuff because it simply looks not proportional. Also, you can look at the height of your collar in the back of your neck of your jacket and try to match that to the size of your trouser cuff. Get Started With CuffsSo what are some good ways to get started with cuffs? I suggest you maybe start with a pair of chinos because you can wear them a little more casually and otherwise, you can also wear them with a suit including a solid navy suit which is quite formal for a suit but nevertheless, it can be worn with cuffs. If you don’t wear suits a lot, you could experiment with cuffs on slightly more casual pants such as flannel pants, tweed slacks, or linen pants. So in conclusion, it pays to have cuffed trousers in your wardrobe, whether they are really casual slacks, chinos, or slacks that are a part of a suit. At the same time, you never want to add cuffs to very formal ensembles because they are simply not meant for that. When you opt for cuffs, go with a slightly shorter trouser length so you have a nice hanging pair of pants and at the end of the day, the sky is the limit and your choice or preference decides on whether you have a lot of cuffs in your wardrobe or very few but it always pays to have at least a few pairs of pants with cuffs because it just gives you a complete wardrobe. Do you prefer pants with or without cuffs? Please share with us in the comments below!Should You Wear Cuffed Pants? A Guide to Trouser Cuffs published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Should You Wear Cuffed Pants? A Guide to Trouser Cuffs The Thursday Handfuls are great, but what if Monday (or Tuesday) rolls around and there are a few sales that can’t wait til the weekend? You’ll find three of the best, with a few picks from each, to start the week below. #1. J. Crew Factory: 50% off most + Extra 20% off w/ FROSTY
Sure, their wheelhouse worsted wool suits are excluded, but just about everything else is up for the half off plus an extra 20% off discount. I honestly can’t recall the last time their cotton (but nice, it’s got a bit of texture/ruggedness to it) SLIM fisherman’s sweaters went for that low. Usually they kick around between $40 – $50 depending on the promotion. Code FROSTY is set to expire today, 12/10/18. Big thanks to Brandon D. for the tip on the brushed cotton blazer being at a rock bottom price! #2. Huckberry: New USA Made Waxed Parkas – $398A bigger, badder, winter-ready brother to their hugely popular waxed trucker (which are back in stock by the way). Made by Flint and Tinder which means they’re made here in the USA. Lined with wool through the body, sleeves, and hood. Not cheap, but something you’re gonna wear forever, and if you have kids, they’ll try and steal from you as they get older. #3. Allen Edmonds Fifth Avenue FIRST QUALITY – $225 ($425)I think this has been running for a little bit now? I don’t recall. Feels like it was an extension of their rediscover America Sale, but just on the Fifth Avenue cap toe Oxfords? Anyway, $225 for first quality AE wheelhouse dress shoes is a heck of a deal. Available with either leather soles or studded Dainite soles if you live in crap-weather-country. Big thanks to Joseph M. for the tip! BONUS: Saddleback: Spend $300 get $50, Spend $500 get $100
In case you missed it in the Thursday handful. You spend $300+ or $500+ and they’ll email you an e-gift card for $50 (if you spent $300+) or $100 (if you’re a big spender and went higher than $500). So it’s not technically a sale, but it is a pretty nice promotion. They do plenty of small stuff so one shouldn’t have a hard time spending fifty or a hundred from a gift card. Also worth a mention…
Monday Sales Tripod – One of the Better JCF Sales, New Flint and Tinder, & More published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Monday Sales Tripod – One of the Better JCF Sales, New Flint and Tinder, & More ![]() Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review UNIQLO 90% wool / 10% Cashmere Topcoat – $99.90 ($149.90)UNIQLO calls these their “Chesterfield” topcoat (despite not being a true chesterfield), and they’re one of the better values in classy looking outerwear on the men’s style market. Given one or two conditions… You live in a warm climate, or, you run particularly hot. The Camel color. Very rich. Not a washed out straw shade. These things are NOT well insulated. And the fabric isn’t that thick. Yet, the fabric really is something. 90% wool (and a fine wool at that) and 10% cashmere. They’re super soft to the touch and hit just above the knee. Meanwhile, if you’re looking for something warmer/puffier, UNIQLO is also running a $10 off promotion on ALL of their ultra light down. That goes for their hooded seamless parkas, their hoodless jackets, vests, etc. Head here for a full in person review of that hooded seamless parka. Ultra light savings run through the 13th, while the wool outerwear deal expires Sunday (and thus, necessitated a steal alert post on Friday, since it’d be gone before the Monday tripod.) That’s all. Carry on. Time to switch to decaf. UNIQLO’s Ultra Light Down Seamless Parka. More than a few colors to pick from. Steal Alert: UNIQLO Wool/Cashmere Topcoats $50 off + Ultra Light Down $10 off published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Steal Alert: UNIQLO Wool/Cashmere Topcoats $50 off + Ultra Light Down $10 off J. Crew Mercantile: 50% off via Amazon (exp 12/7)UPDATE: Sizes are moving/have moved FAST on this one. So it seems like size selection is limited already. J. Crew is dumping Mercantile. The brand. I don’t think they’re discontinuing their J. Crew Factory clothes as a whole but the confusion over what was factory and what was mercantile will be eliminated by way of phasing out “Mercantile.” And with that elimination, perhaps the Amazon relationship might go with it. Mercantile was the only J. Crew line that Amazon carried. And it didn’t make much sense, being that the stuff on Amazon often cost much, MUCH more than what it cost on the J. Crew Factory website. But that’s not true anymore. At least for today. Amazon has slashed prices on what appears to be a ton of their J. Crew Mercantile goods. And while J. Crew Factory is running a sixty percent off sale, MANY of the items on Amazon are still less. When is 50% off an equal to or better deal than even 60% off? When J. Crew Mercantile/Factory and their weird pricing is involved. Mercantile’s Wool blend Topcoat, Nylon/Wool Crews, and Nylon/Wool Shawl Collars. All of that shown above? It’s either basically the same price or LESS on Amazon. Today. Despite JCF claiming a 60% off sale (with exclusions of course). Beats me. Plus, if you get it at Amazon and have Prime, it’ll ship fast and free. And returns are super easy. Another bonus. Deal allegedly ends today though, being that it’s a gold box one day deal. Big thanks to Ryan W. for sending in the tip. That’s all. Carry on. Shown at the top of the post: J Crew Mercantile’s Quilted jacket, which is $55 today on Amazon, and $59 on the JCF site. Also shown up top is their lambswool bomber, which is $44.75 at Amazon, and $49 on the JCF site. Steal Alert: J. Crew Mercantile / Factory 50% off at Amazon published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Steal Alert: J. Crew Mercantile / Factory 50% off at Amazon Given its heritage, tartan is an ideal choice for autumn and winter wear, as well as for the business casual dress code. Read on to learn all you need to know about how you can wear tartan the smart and dapper way. Tartan DefinedIn the most general terms, tartan is a type of checked pattern. As a reminder, a check is a pattern of horizontal and vertical lines that create small squares and that can incorporate multiple colors though it doesn’t necessarily have to. It can also be further enhanced by an overcheck in a different color. More specifically, tartan is a pattern of intersecting horizontal and vertical bands in differing widths and colors and in its most traditional weave, would be considered a serge twill. Tartans alternating weave forms visible diagonal lines where different colors cross and can also give the appearance of creating new colors where these lines intersect. Tartans originated almost exclusively in woven wool but today, you can find them in a variety of other materials. And while the definition of a tartan was originally one that was made only from a woven material, you can also find tartans today that are printed instead of woven. In traditional Scottish Gaelic, tartan is known as breacan which means multiple colors. As late as the 1830s, a tartan didn’t actually have to be made up of any pattern at all, just multiple colors but since then, the meanings of tartan and breacan merged over time to become known as a certain pattern in a certain type of weave. Where Does The Term “Plaid” Come Into Play?Especially in the United States, tartans are generally referred to by the more generic term plaid. In Scotland, a plaid is a garment, not a pattern. Specifically, it refers to a long rectangular strip of cloth worn over the shoulder usually the left and that can be folded or unfolded to be used as a blanket. Also, these cloths can be hand pleated and worn with a belt in which case, they’d be referred to as belted plaids and are worn in place of a conventional kilt which has pleats sewn in. Since these types of garments almost always sport different tartan patterns, the confusion between the words tartan and plaid likely has its source here. Also, plaid cloths in a particular tartan pattern known as the Rob Roy became commonly traded in the American West in the 1880s. This pattern which came to be commonly associated with cowboys, as well as Lumberjacks, came to be known as buffalo plaid in the United States further cementing the confusion between the two terms. Outside of Scotland, the term plaid can now also refer to any type of checked pattern in two or more colors. Also, here’s an important definition that we will be employing later on, the specific pattern on any given tartan is referred to as a set. The shades of color in any given tartan set can also be varied to produce different variations on the same general tartan. Tartan OriginsThe earliest documented tartan found in Scotland referred to as the Falkirk tartan dates from the third century CE and features a very simple check pattern of alternating dark and light natural wool. Tartan, as we know it today, is not thought to have existed in Scotland prior to the 16th century. The dress act of 1746 attempted to bring the warring Scottish clans under British government control by banning tartan entirely as well as other elements of Gaelic culture. When this Act was repealed in 1782, tartan was no longer just an everyday fabric but was then decided that it should be made the national dress of Scotland. In 1842, Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert traveled to Scotland themselves and purchased Balmoral Castle there. Prince Albert personally took care of the interior design of the castle himself and he incorporated lots of tartan into it. Queen Victoria designed the Victoria tartan and Prince Albert designed the Balmoral tartan and both of these still see wide use today by the Royals and by commoners. Because of its association with British royalty and aristocracy around this period, tartan, in general, started developing an air of dignity and exclusivity to it. This trope has occasionally been subverted, however, for example, the punk rock scene of the 1970s in Britain saw widespread use of tartan as a kind of mocking anti-establishment symbol. Also, the grunge music scene of the 1990s, particularly in the United States, saw lots of tartan patterns used as well. All this being said, Scotland is where tartan really took root to the extent that different Scottish clans adopted clan tartans over time. The naming and registration of specific clan tartans began in 1815 upon a resolution from the Highland Society of London. Today, however, almost all Scottish clans have several types of tartans associated with their name and several plans also have official tartans as documented by various official societies. How To Wear & Pair TartanGiven its heritage, tartan is an ideal choice for autumn and winter wear, as well as for the business casual dress code. Conversely, it’s a little too rustic to be worn in a traditional white-collar business environment and while it’s too loud to be worn with white tie ensembles, conservative tartans such as black watch have had a history in Black Tie dress codes since at least the middle of the 20th century. ShirtsIn the realm of casual wear, especially in the cooler months, it’s hard to beat a flannel button-up in tartan or in a more general plaid pattern. It can be worn with denim, corduroy, or khakis and even layered under a sport coat perhaps in a fabric like a muted wool tweed. SuitsWhile full suits in loud red and green tartans are available, these types of ensembles are really more at home in the world of high fashion than in traditional menswear. Instead, we suggest opting for a more subtle and largely monochromatic tartan which is to say really more of a general plaid or something that’s dark yet colorful such as the black watch set. Layers underneath the suit’s jacket should ideally be subdued and monochromatic such as a white or light blue dress shirt or a dark turtleneck sweater. Similarly here, your accessories should also be tasteful and uncomplicated so as not to clash in focus with the tartan pattern. Sport CoatsTartan sport coats can be a little bit more bright and bold than full tartan suits can. As with suits and sweaters though, it’s best when wearing a tartan sport coat to make sure that the other elements of your outfit, including your trousers and shirt, are more subdued. Odd VestsAlso, tartan wears well as the pattern on an odd waistcoat or vest. Though if you’re wearing one of these, it’s best to pair it with a plain or very subtly patterned jacket so that the two patterns don’t clash. TrousersTartan trousers worn without a matching jacket should generally follow the same principles we’ve just outlined for solo tartan sport coats. A subdued set paired with a muted jacket, either plain or faintly patterned, will be your most versatile option. Whereas something bold and loud in tartan patterns on trousers would situate them firmly within the realm of go-to-hell pants. NeckwearA tartan necktie can be even more colorful than the jacket or trousers can be but the louder the tartan pattern on an accessory gets, the more muted your other garments should be to help balance things out. A plain dark suit or sport coat perhaps in navy or charcoal will work best with a bold pattern tartan tie. If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, these garments can also incorporate subtle patterns of their own though remember that balance is key. Still within the realm of neckwear, a great way to introduce tartan into your outfits is through an accessory that’s primarily designed to be functional. As such, a tartan scarf is perhaps the poster child for this principle. As before, it’s easiest to opt for subtler tartans with more neutral based tones. Pocket SquaresFor tartan pocket squares, the same rules generally apply as for neckwear. Tartan pocket squares either in wool or silk can add a pop of color to another more muted outfit and out of all the types of garments we’ve discussed today, you’ve got the greatest liberty to be really bold with a pocket square in tartan. HatsRegarding hats, flat caps are a traditional choice that remains stylish today. They’re great for fall style and they come in various materials primarily tweed and also different kinds of pattern and color combinations including tartans and generally plaids. FootwearSome more casual men’s shoe designs might also feature tartan patterns directly incorporated. Tartan shoes aside, here are a few tips for pairing more conventional shoe styles with tartan patterned garments: As we’ve said in the past, brown is the most versatile shoe and boot color for outfits consisting of a combination of sport coats and odd trousers. You can get away with an informal shoe in black as well such as perhaps a horse bit loafer if the tartan patterned elements in your outfit are especially bold. If you’re wearing more muted tartan accessories with a charcoal suit, however, feel free to wear a conventional black oxford shoe. BoutonnieresOf course, with any type of outfit, boutonnieres are a great way to add that special touch of sprezzatura. Choose a flower that isn’t too large as tartan can already be a relatively bold pattern on its own and go for something in a color that echoes something in the tartan or elsewhere around your outfit. CONCLUSIONThere are over 5,000 different individual sets of tartan available so any man should be able to find a particular tartan pattern that suits his tastes as well as the occasion, provided he follows the advice we’ve outlined in this article. What were you most surprised to learn about the history of tartans and plaids in menswear?Tartan Guide published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Tartan Guide |
FashionPassion
I lived my life in Europe and now a global citizen in fashion. I have attended the American University in Texas and hold master degree in Media & Communications. I have also spent 4 years of formal training in clothing and fashion. I love travelling around the world and being in different artistic environments has helped me discover more and more about my passions which is fashion. Personal Links |