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Contemporary sartorial authorities typically refer to just two options for formal silk: satin or ribbed (aka grosgrain). So when I recently came across a historical reference to a third option – “dull silk” – it was an eye-opener in a couple of ways. Silk SatinFirstly, it explained the dichotomy of Victorian and Edwardian sources referring to facings as being “silk or satin” as if the two were somehow mutually exclusive. In actual fact, satin is a finish that can be produced by numerous materials, including silk. Although some modern sources define satin solely as a synthetic version of silk, that is not only incorrect (likely stemming from the fact that most satin textiles these days are indeed cheaper synthetics, ) but it obviously couldn’t apply to facings made prior to the 1940s as polyester had not yet been invented. This had me scratching my head for many years until I came across the aforesaid reference in a 1936 fashion magazine: Lapels of single-breasted dinner jackets are usually faced with dull silk, grosgrain or barathea. With the more informal double-breasted dinner jacket, many men have the shawl collar faced with satin. ![]() This midnight blue jacket features lapels faced in black grosgrain silk. Dull Silk – A Forgotten Tuxedo Lapel MaterialThe passage suggested to me that early authorities used the term ‘silk’ as shorthand for ‘dull silk’. I searched my archives for similar references and found this caption in a 1940 issue of Esquire: “the new satin shawl collar and more conventional dull silk peak lapel”. The classification of dull silk as “conventional” certainly re-enforces my theory that ‘dull’ was implied in early references to ‘silk’ facings. The second revelation was that ‘satin’ is a fairly fluid term today, kind of like “midnight blue”. The facings on my various tuxedos might or might not qualify as satin (see the very technical description here) but they are a far cry from the high-gloss appearance I associate with that term. I would more accurately describe them as being dull silk because even though it has no fixed definition the term much more accurately captures their low-lustre finish. It’s good to know that grosgrain isn’t the only option for understated trim considering how rare it is. Certainly, if I were to find myself in the market for another tuxedo, I would pay much more attention to the sheen quotient of the facings to make sure I stay far away from the glossy look of rental wear. ![]() Notched Lapel tuxedo with daywear vest and glossy lapel facings Plastic perhaps “dulled” “flat” or “matte” is a better term as it doesn’t suggest ‘boring’ rougher finish also makes for easier tying bow tie. All the Trimmings: The Sheen Factor published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr All the Trimmings: The Sheen Factor Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. Norstrom: Early Half-Yearly Sale Picks?
What in the world? I’m not quite sure what’s going on with Norstrom right now, but their sale section is jammed and they keep sending out email advertising said sale section. So perhaps this is a slow roll out of their annual winter edition of their half-yearly sale? Usually it launches on the 26th. Anyway, it all ships and returns for free since it’s Nordstrom. And if memory serves, J. Crew hasn’t put their everyday cashmere on sale all that often, if at all. Yet Nordstrom has it marked down by 40%. Not bad. Spier & Mackay: 20% off reg. priced Sportcoats w/ SC20
Wait a minute… is that navy hopsack wool sportcoat new? Seems like most sizes are available at post time. Not bad for a half canvas, super 120s wool, quarter lined, do-anything blazer. They’ve also dropped the prices on their suits by $30 – $40, depending on the line. Sizes can be limited (both for the suits and the sportcoats) depending on what you’re after though. We’re coming to the end of the season, and Spier usually sells just about out of stuff, then moves on and does a restock after that. Huckberry: Final Countdown Markdowns + Free Shipping!
It’s coming close to zero hour for getting the gifts you’re giving (or, well, getting for yourself) in time for the portly fella in the red suit to stash them under the annual piece of indoor evergreen conifer. Or something. You get the point. They’ve also put together a handy best-gifts page. Some of it is on sale. Some of it is not. Free shipping no minimum expires tomorrow, 12/14. Target: 20% off Select Men’s Jeans w/ JEANS20The Pick: Goodfellow & Co Slim Straight Fit Selvedge Jeans – $31.99 ($39.99) Nice. It’s still jeans season, people (and will be for a very, very long time). Our resident Denim Head was oddly impressed with Target’s selvedge jeans. Head here for the full review. These are also available in slim, as well as straight. East Dane: Extra 30% off sale items w/ JOY18
As always, East Dane is fulfilled by Amazon. And it’s mostly high fashion. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t some more down to earth pieces in the mix. Especially tempting would be those Allen Edmonds grain bluchers. BONUS Todd Snyder: 30% off select w/ HOLIDAYBONUS
What an odd collection of things in this select item sale. But there are some winners. Just… none of em’ are cheap. Cheaper? Yes. 30% off is a pretty hefty discount from Todd Snyder. So that’s greatly appreciated. BONUS II Lands’ End: 50% Off w/ MERRY & 7894
This might… might work site-wide? On sale stuff too? And it’s not limited to just one item. You can pick up a bunch of stuff if you so choose. Also worth a mention:
A Weirdly Stacked Nordy Sale Section, Spier & Mackay 20% off Sportcoats, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr A Weirdly Stacked Nordy Sale Section, Spier & Mackay 20% off Sportcoats, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful Music is a little like food and clothes. These are areas where it’s probably worthwhile for one to explore & expand their tastes. The Playlist is assembled each month by Dappered’s very own music correspondent, Tim Johnstone. Tim is a former Virgin Records Label Rep & current award winning Program Director at KRVB, which was awarded the FMQB AAA station of the year markets 50+. You can also catch his work on Fridays when he assembles the Weekend Reset. Got a Spotify account? You’ll find a link to this month’s playlist at the end of the post. There are numerous types of holiday songs. The break your heart beautiful. The over the top pop showstopper. The quiet, lovely Winterlude. And this is not a surprise since holiday songs were always pop culture touch stones. Then there are the Holiday love songs which are everywhere. This year’s December playlist has selections from all of the above. JD McPherson – “All The Gifts I Need”<span data-mce-type=”bookmark” style=”display: inline-block; width: 0px; overflow: hidden; line-height: 0;” class=”mce_SELRES_start”></span> I’m already on the record as a big fan of JD and his new Christmas album. It is just a blast right out of the gate and it doesn’t let up. These aren’t all songs about making merry and bright. Sometimes the Holidays suck and you get some of that too, delivered with a terrific sense of humor and a knack for big, memorable hooks. Kelly Clarkson – “Christmas Eve”This relentlessly cheerful Holiday song from Kelly Clarkson was released last year. And there’s a chance I recommended it last year. But there is absolutely no chance that I care about repeating it here. It’s just too fun to forget. It is all of the heightened energy of that first peek at the tree on Christmas morning, the promise of all the fun to come, and the joy of the season all crammed into a showstopper of a song. Old 97’s – “Snow Angels”Rhett Miller and The Old 97’s have been consistently made terrific Americana/Alt-Country for a good while now. Rhett released a solo record not that long ago and now the band has shared their first original Holiday collection. There is much to like here and if you are already a fan of Rhett and The Old 97’s this is for you. Ingrid Michaelson – “All I Want For Christmas Is You” (featuring Leslie Odom Jr) Whereupon Ingrid does the most Ingrid thing imaginable to Mariah Carey’s perennial favorite. Yes, this is a compliment. A Fine Frenzy – “Red Ribbon Foxes” Some of the songs included in this year’s playlist aren’t actually new. But they are deserving of attention. I met Allison Sudol (AKA A Fine Frenzy) just after she released her debut single with Virgin Records sometime in 2007. She stopped by the station to play in our performance lounge. It was obvious to those of us who were there that she is supremely talented. We played several of her singles over the next couple years and were fans of her Christmas ep which included “Red Ribbon Foxes.” But you might already be familiar with her via her screen work. In particular, her role as Queenie Goldstein in Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them. Yep. Same woman. And I still love this. Kasey Musgraves – “Present Without A Bow” featuring Leon Bridges I’m not sure how I missed this one. It has been really something watching Kacey Musgraves’ evolution as a songwriter/performer since her debut. Her most recent album is pretty much one of the best of the year (not me – real critics have expressed this). This Holiday album is from a couple years back and it is a fun collection of original songs, favorites of the season and a few nicely chosen less-covered Christmas songs. Aloe Blacc – “I Got Your Christmas Right Here”Aloe Blacc just seems like the most chill man in music. He makes what he does seem effortless and maybe it is for him. This is a perfect example of what he does best. It’s a feel-good song that begs you to just stop and enjoy the season. Low – “Just Like Christmas” Here’s where I admit I have all the feels for this song. I am not proud of the fact that I came to it via Snow Patrol but there you are. I love both versions. This is definitely one of those Holiday songs that is lovely and kind of sad at the same time. Like I said. The feels. David Archuleta – “Christmas Every Day”If you would have asked me two weeks ago if I’d ever include David Archuleta on a Dappered playlist, I would have snorted like a smug douchenozzle. I’m still an asshat but damn if this song doesn’t just insist on making you a little less cynical about the world we live in. It is nearly unrivaled in it’s cheerfulness and good vibes and it will make your heart grow two sizes and such. So, yeah. Way to go David. John Legend – “What Christmas Means To Me” featuring Stevie Wonder Anyone else kind of surprised we are only getting this now? Doesn’t it feel like John Legend must have surely released a holiday collection before now? This one could very well be a classic. Rogue Wave – “Christmas”Not new. But it’s a gem for sure. Rogue Wave covered this Who song (from their rock-opera “Tommy”) and because it is Rogue Wave, they infuse the song with that sweet and sad spirit that makes up so much of their own music. Everything about this arrangement helps take a song out of its original context and lets it live on its own. Absolutely lovely. The Mavericks – “I Have Wanted You For Christmas”<span data-mce-type=”bookmark” style=”display: inline-block; width: 0px; overflow: hidden; line-height: 0;” class=”mce_SELRES_start”></span> Raul Malo and his band of honky tonk brethren are no strangers to Holiday songs. Malo released his own Holiday collection years ago and it is worth checking out. Everything The Mavericks do has a retro feel which is a result of their use of instruments popular in Tejano music. This is one of those “Christmas song masquerading as a love song” Holiday songs. Over The Rhine – “Here It Is”Here we have an example of the holiday LOVE song. As in framing the love song in a holiday song. As in this is really just a fantastic song that is dressed up for the season. This Cincinnati band has made Christmas songs a regular part of their discography. This is one of my favorites. There is something special about this song: it is absolutely genuine, and Karin Bergquist’s vocals are something to behold. Leslie Odom Jr. – “Winter Song” Whereupon one of the sweetest vocalists working today absolutely shines on this cover of Ingrid Michaelson and Sara Bareilles’ beautiful Christmas song. This is just one song from a fantastic collection that came out last year. Phoebe Bridges – “Christmas Song”Phoebe Bridgers is having a really good year. Along with Lucy Dacus and Julien Baker, Bridgers released an excellent ep under the moniker boygenius. Late last year she released her debut album “Stranger In The Alps” to critical acclaim. This new holiday recording is a cover of a song by Omaha, Nebraska band McCarthy Trenching (they have quite the story about their name by the way). The story goes that Bridgers performed the song at a Holiday show last year and Jackson Browne was in the audience. Phoebe asking him to sing on a studio version and this is the result. Lindsey Stirling – “Dance Of The Sugar Plum Fairy” I can’t think of a Holiday song better suited for Stirling’s talents. Merry and bright indeed. For previous editions of The Playlist, see the growing archive here. See the Spotify playlist here. The Playlist – December 2018 published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr The Playlist – December 2018 Buttoned Down Men’s Slim Fit Super 110 Italian Wool Blazer – $269NOTE: These blazers come in navy, charcoal, & black. They’re also available in three fits: Slim, Tailored, and Classic. About the Author: Stephen Knight is a photographer / videographer who founded Itsaknightslife. His mission is to tell the story of people through style, food, music, and dancing. Catch his stuff at itsaknightslife on Instagram and Youtube. A couple weeks ago we spoke about how Amazon got things right with their merino wool sweater, and how getting the essentials right could make Amazon a real player in the style/fashion industry. Enter now the Buttoned Down (that’s the in-house brand name) Men’s Slim Fit Super 110 Italian Wool Hopsack Blazer. (Try saying that 5 times fast.) How does this essential stack up? Size 38R Slim on 5’10” 170 lbs. The LookThe first thing I noticed about this blazer was how “deep” the navy color is of the jacket. It gives it a more formal look, something that can be worn with a tie, although I would say this has the ability to be used in multiple scenarios. I’m not sure if I would wear it in the most formal of places, but for dinners and certain meetings, this will do just fine. This is something you can easily pair with dark (or light) pants or denim. From an overall standpoint, this is a good looking blazer, and I was very pleased with the way it looked on me. The notch lapels are slim. Quite slim. But they don’t draw too much attention in a weird, super-modern kinda way. They compliment the cut of the jacket. The jacket is fully lined in 50% viscose /5 0% polyester, so it looks fairly structured, and the padding on the shoulders is noticeable but not overbearing. The “genuine horn buttons” (they don’t specify on the site) are a little darker than I’d like. I’m not a fan of navy with gold buttons, but something of a mid-toned brown note would resonate with me more. But that’s subjective. The length of the blazer is fine, it isn’t chopped and falls right around the mid to upper mid thigh. The upper pocket wasn’t stitched together, so no need to break out the scissors for this one. Nice hopsack weave, non-functioning button sleeves. The FeelJust like any hopsack material, the feel of this blazer is lightweight, and breathable. the outer shell hast that tell-tale hopsack texture. For some, that texture can be polarizing. Either you love the texture, or you don’t. I have to be honest and say that I tend to not, and it’s the same for this jacket as well. If you DO like the feel of a hopsack wool, then you should feel right at home in this jacket. Wool is sourced from the Italian mill Reda, which is tag I think most of us have seen on some pretty nice suits and sportcoats. Despite the description on Amazon saying: “lightweight chest canvas forms to the body over time for a comfortable fit and natural look,” I don’t believe this blazer is a true, “half canvas” construction like, say, Suitsupply. I did the pinch test and compared it to one of my Suitsupply jackets, and there’s a noticeable difference. But that test is famous for not being super accurate. So while it doesn’t have that substantial half-canvas feeling, it is really lightweight. And plenty will like that. Shoulder pads seemed to go just short of my shoulder edge, and I wouldn’t say the actual padding itself felt the most comfortable, but I don’t think that it was poor either, just middle of the road. The lining didn’t get in my way when moving around, and wearing this over the course of the day didn’t bother me, although this wasn’t as comfortable as a deconstructed blazer. Fabric weight is solidly three season. You’ll need to layer up if you run cold in order to turn it into a year round piece. Slim fit without being too tight. The FitI went for the slim version of the jacket, and I’m not sure who Amazon is hiring to do the fittings of their clothing, but they need to keep doing what they’re doing. I said that their merino wool sweater was the best “fitting” sweater I’ve worn… and I have to give them the crown for the best “off the rack” fitting blazer. One of the first things I check for with jackets and blazers is the back, which usually needs to be taken in. This is the second time ever I picked up an item that didn’t need to be taken in, anywhere. The chest was close to the body, along with the sides. So my modern style wearers who likes clothes fitting close to the body, the slim will be for you. If you have a little bit more heft to you or want some extra room to move around, it would probably be best to go for the “tailored-fit” version. Keep in mind I’m 5’10 ~170 lbs and exercise regularly. ConclusionAt $269 at the time of posting, with fast Prime-backed shipping and easy returns, there’s a reason why it’s getting so many good reviews on Amazon. If it goes on sale (and I believe it has in the past, who knows if it will in the future) it’ll fall into the steal category for sure. The versatility of the garment is notable, but the real reason to get this is the off the rack fit, which saves you some tailoring money. I said last time that Amazon hit it out of the park with the merino sweater, and had a solid staple to add to their portfolio. With this hopsack blazer, you can make that two. In Review: Amazon’s Buttoned Down Men’s Slim-Fit Italian Wool Blazer published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr In Review: Amazon’s Buttoned Down Men’s Slim-Fit Italian Wool Blazer Dealing with perspiration is part of the human condition. When considering the underarms, deodorant and antiperspirant are the common solutions–but what goes into these products, how do they work, and what other considerations should you have? ![]() Various types of deodorants and antiperspirants. A Brief History of Deodorants and AntiperspirantsPrior to the 19th century, before regular bathing became commonplace, people used heavy colognes to mask body odors. The earliest manufacturers of deodorants and antiperspirants experimented with pastes and creams, though these were often difficult to apply. Mass-produced aluminum-based products came about in the late 19th century; the first commercial deodorant, Mum (now better known as Ban) debuted in 1888, and the antiperspirant Everdry followed in 1903, with its modern formula engineered in 1941. The market for deodorants exploded in the 1940s and ‘50s; deodorants were originally marketed primarily to women, but according to contemporary reporting by the New York Times, roughly half of men in the U.S. were using deodorants by 1957. ![]() The back of a vintage package of Mum deodorant, explaining its uses. In the early 1960s, the first aerosol antiperspirant in the marketplace was Gillette’s Right Guard, and the popularity of aerosol deodorants and antiperspirants continued to grow through the 1970s. However, aerosols would wane in popularity beginning in the late ‘70s, due to an FDA ban on the active ingredients used, aluminum zirconium chemicals, and a mandate by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) limiting the use of certain propellants; these actions were taken to address inhalation concerns and depletion of the ozone layer, respectively. As a result, solid stick deodorants would become the dominant choice in America in the 1980s, and remain so today, while other methods would remain popular elsewhere around the world. Application MethodsDeodorants and antiperspirants come in a variety of forms and formulas:
![]() A typical example of solid-stick deodorant, from Old Spice.
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![]() ![]() ![]() Perspiration & Body Odor: What, Why, and HowPerspiration (or more simply, sweating) allows the body to regulate its temperature; sweat glands–of which the average person has between two and four million–secrete sweat to the surface of the skin, which then evaporates, cooling the body. Sweat is not pure water; it always contains small amounts (0.2–1%) of minerals including sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium as well as natural fluids like lactic acid and urea. There are two situations in which the nerves will stimulate the sweat glands: physical heat and emotional stress. In general, emotionally induced sweating is restricted to palms, soles, armpits, and sometimes the forehead (though other areas including the trunk may be affected), while physical heat-induced sweating occurs throughout the body. Furthermore, humans have two distinct types of sweat glands: eccrine glands, which represent the majority of sweat glands across the body, and apocrine glands, which are principally located in key areas (including the underarms, nipples, ears, eyes, nose, and genital regions). ![]() A close-up of eccrine perspiration on a forearm, presumably from heat or activity. The eccrine glands produce the watery perspiration described above, and function primarily due to heat or activity. Because all humans have various cultures of bacteria on the surface of the skin, and because these cultures are particularly fond of damp areas, any odor resulting from eccrine sweat is primarily due to bacteria congregating, metabolizing the sweat, and decomposing on the skin. Meanwhile, the apocrine glands play the principal role in emotional sweating (as they are triggered by adrenaline), and secrete an oily, odorous compound that acts as a pheromone, territorial marker, and warning signal. ![]() A simplified anatomical diagram of the skin, showing the location of the eccrine sweat glands, as well as the exterior pores. The quantity of sweat secreted depends on the individual, and is determined by many factors, including gender, genetics, environmental conditions, age, and fitness level (including body weight). There are some differences in men’s and women’s sweat glands; women have more individual glands, but each gland on men’s bodies produces more sweat. For people who suffer from excessive perspiration, such as those with the condition known as hyperhidrosis, the apocrine glands may be more active, and thus odor may be a greater concern. Additionally, there is a genetic component to whether your underarm bacteria will produce odor; the specific makeup of the ABCC11 gene determines the degree to which apocrine sweat will produce an odor. In particular, those of East Asian origin are much less likely to produce odorous sweat, whereas only 2 percent of Europeans can say the same. ![]() Sufferers of hyperhidrosis must often deal with both excessive sweating and the awkward social ramifications that result. These two issues, then–perspiration and body odor–are closely intertwined while remaining distinct. As such, there is a specific remedy for each, though these remedies are also often grouped together in the minds of consumers. In casual usage, many people collectively refer to underarm deodorants and antiperspirants by simply using the term “deodorant.” Technically, however, the primary purposes of these products are not entirely the same, as their names suggest. With that in mind, here are brief summaries of each of these types of products. AntiperspirantsAntiperspirants use aluminum-based ingredients to create temporary blockages in the sweat glands, reducing underarm sweating. While they typically don’t mask or reduce odor directly, their impediment of both odorous apocrine sweat and bacterially susceptible eccrine sweat means that the user will likely experience less body odor as a result. Antiperspirants are often used by people who sweat profusely, such as the aforementioned sufferers of hyperhidrosis, as well as those who generally wish to avoid the embarrassment of visible perspiration. In simple terms, antiperspirants keep us dry. ![]() The backside of the box of SweatBlock antiperspirant towelettes, listing their ingredients. What are these “aluminum-based ingredients?” Here’s a brief list. Note that any given antiperspirant may contain some of these ingredients, but not necessarily all; be sure to read the packaging on your chosen product for more complete information.
![]() The backside of the gel-style deodorant/antiperspirant from Gillette, listing its ingredients. Due to the presence of these more volatile ingredients, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) classifies antiperspirants as a drug, meaning that they are products designed to serve a medical purpose. Most over-the-counter antiperspirants contain between 10 and 20 percent of their active ingredient; FDA restrictions cap that level to between 15 and 25 percent, depending on the specific type of active ingredient. So-called “clinical strength” formulas stay within over-the-counter guidelines, but aim to provide comparable wetness protection to prescription products. One additional note: yellow underarm stains on undershirts are caused principally by the aluminum compounds in antiperspirants, rather than by the actual perspiration. Non-aluminum deodorants will result in less visible underarm stains over time. ![]() Underarm stains are decidedly not a good look; they can be avoided by using less antiperspirant, which contains aluminum compounds. Antiperspirant ClassificationsIn its regulatory guidelines for antiperspirants, the FDA requires that an antiperspirant must cut down on the total amount of sweat by 20% to be considered “all day,” and 30% to be considered “extra strength.” “Clinical strength” and “maximum strength” are unregulated terms, however, and while antiperspirants using these designations may promise to keep you drier than regular antiperspirants, their higher concentrations of active ingredients make them somewhat more likely to cause skin irritation; see “Health Concerns” below. There are also deodorants that contain some antiperspirant ingredients, which are then also regulated according to FDA antiperspirant standards. Remember to closely observe the label of any product you choose to buy, to determine its primary function, and whether or not you believe it will meet your needs. ![]() This brand of antiperspirant towelette (now shown open) markets itself as “clinical strength,” an unregulated term. DeodorantsThe primary objective of a deodorant is to neutralize underarm odor. Deodorants are often alcohol-based, and additionally contain emollients (lotions) to soothe skin, as well as various fragrances. Alcohol initially stimulates sweating, but may also temporarily kill bacteria. Other active ingredients in deodorants include sodium compounds like sodium stearate and sodium chloride (salt), and occasionally other antimicrobial chemicals. In the past, deodorants included chemicals such as zinc oxide, ammonium chloride, sodium bicarbonate, and formaldehyde, but these ingredients have been phased out over time due to potential health risks, including cancer; again, see “Health Concerns” below. ![]() The backside of the Old Spice deodorant, showing its ingredients (as well as a humorous “summary” of its effects). The FDA classifies deodorant as a cosmetic, meaning that it is “intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions.” In other words, deodorants are not meant to treat medical conditions, and in simplest terms, they control odor, not perspiration. Additionally, the active ingredients (as well as most other key structural elements) are mostly the same between men’s and women’s varieties, with only the fragrances being significantly different. “Natural” FormulationsGiven their increasing popularity in recent years, you may also see some deodorant products variously marketed as “natural,” “organic,” or “vegan.” (As of the time of this writing, “natural” antiperspirants are not commonly available, with the exception of crystals, which have some antiperspirant qualities). Products listed as “natural” must contain some ingredients derived from nature; that is, not created in a laboratory. “Organic” products contain only ingredients that have been grown without pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, or GMOs. However, these terms remain largely unregulated by the FDA or other agencies, and as such, a product can freely advertise as “natural” even if some of its ingredients are artificially created, and as “organic” as long as none of its ingredients have been treated with the aforementioned substances. ![]() ![]() Over-the-counter products labeled as “natural deodorants” or “deodorant crystal” can contain potassium alum, and another popular alternative to modern commercial deodorants is ammonium alum. Both of these products contain aluminum, which can be a skin irritant for some people. Finally, “vegan” products don’t contain any ingredients derived from an animal, such as flesh, bone, milk, scales, or beeswax. While this term (as well as the related designation “cruelty-free”) is monitored to a greater degree, said monitoring is done by independent organizations rather than government agencies. ![]() ![]() ![]() Regarding the effectiveness of “natural” deodorants, your mileage may vary. Experiment with these products if you wish to avoid lab-created materials, but be aware that the claims of their manufacturers are less well-regulated. One natural deodorant brand you may consider trying is Schmidt’s; their “Bergamot + Lime” variety is the regular deodorant of Sven Raphael Schneider. Alternatively, if you’re so inclined, you can experiment with homemade alternatives. Various botanical oils and extracts, such as thyme, rosemary, and lavender, have been proven to have antimicrobial effects and can be combined with solids like beeswax, cocoa butter, or shea butter with oils including thyme, rosemary, or lavender. Baking soda is also a common ingredient in homemade deodorant. Keep in mind, however, that anything made in the home will be much less specifically formulated than a mass-market consumer product. ![]() Beeswax can be used as a primary ingredient in natural deodorants made at home. Scented or Unscented?It is important to note the distinction between “unscented” and “fragrance-free”; unscented products contain fragrance additives to mask the chemical smell of other ingredients, and will therefore carry the smell of these additives. Meanwhile, fragrance-free products do not contain additives and are mostly free of any primary odor. A potential downside to scented antiperspirants (as well as deodorants) is that their scents can easily clash with cologne or aftershave; as such, if you’re a man who prefers to make a statement with these products, be mindful of whether your deodorant or antiperspirant also carries a scent. ![]() A combination deodorant/antiperspirant from Arm & Hammer, marketed as “unscented.” Health ConcernsOver the years, there have been many rumors about health risks associated with antiperspirant and deodorant, including that they cause breast cancer and Alzheimer’s disease. Many of these concerns have been connected to the presence of aluminum in antiperspirant. Research has not determined any clear linkage, however. The myth that breast cancer (which also occurs in men, though more rarely than in women) is believed to be linked with deodorant use has been widely circulated, and appears to originate from a spam email sent in 1999; however, researchers at the National Cancer Institute and the FDA have determined that there is no evidence to conclude that these products cause breast cancer. One ingredient type in some deodorant products which has given cause for concern is the group of preservatives known as parabens. According to the American Cancer Society, however, studies have not shown any direct link between parabens and any health problems, including breast cancer. Scientists have also not found compelling evidence to associate antiperspirant or deodorant with Alzheimer’s disease. However, research in these areas is ongoing, so some consumers may still wish to be cautious. ![]() Headquarters of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, or FDA. As mentioned above, the aluminum in antiperspirants and the alcohol and fragrances in deodorants can act as irritants to some people. Especially if you shave your underarms, this area of the skin can be particularly sensitive. If you suffer from especially dry or sensitive skin, read the list of ingredients in your chosen product carefully. If antiperspirants have given you a rash in the past, avoid applying them right after showering or shaving; that’s when they’re most likely to irritate skin. The primary active ingredient may also be the key; some people react badly to antiperspirants with aluminum chloride, others to aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, and still others have had adverse reactions to “natural” products. The method of application can also contribute to irritation. ![]() Crystalline alum, one of the key aluminum-based ingredients in antiperspirants. You may occasionally hear that the body builds up a resistance to antiperspirants over time, though scientific evidence for this is minimal and inconclusive. It is possible, however, that some bodies may develop compensatory hyperhidrosis due to blocked sweat glands; this has been observed in individuals who have undergone surgical procedures to stop sweating in the arms and hands, who would experience increased sweating at other locations, such as the feet, groin or trunk, following surgery. When Should I Apply Deodorant?Deodorants without antiperspirant capabilities can be applied at any time throughout the day; morning is the most common time for a great many people, though occasional reapplication following strenuous activity at other times can also occur. While no health risks have conclusively been linked to any of the active ingredients in standard deodorants, frequent application (more than two times in one day) may be excessive. Antiperspirants work best when applied to clean skin that isn’t already sweating. As such, many men find the most success with antiperspirants if they are applied at bedtime, since the sweat glands are least active during sleep, and the product will be able to block the pores with maximum efficiency. Some men may reapply in the morning for additional coverage, while others will apply deodorant at that time. It’s recommended that over-the-counter antiperspirants marketed for underarms only be used on that area of the body, whereas medically prescribed antiperspirant solutions may be applied elsewhere, in accordance with the individual prescription. ![]() As with any other medical concern you may have, the best course of action regarding questions about deodorants and antiperspirants is to consult your doctor. If you have concerns regarding any of the information we’ve outlined here in relation to the deodorant or antiperspirant you use, please consult your doctor. ConclusionDeodorants and antiperspirants are two closely related products that have revolutionized the world’s approach to hygiene over the last two centuries. While the needs of each individual man may vary in terms of which product will be best for him, knowing the ins and outs of each will leave him better equipped to stay fresh, dry, and confident. Still, a little sweat never hurt anybody–as Thomas Edison once said, “Genius is one percent inspiration and 99 percent perspiration.” Best Deodorants & Antiperspirants for Men – A Comprehensive Guide published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Best Deodorants & Antiperspirants for Men – A Comprehensive Guide Tis the season. And by now you’ve probably been walloped over the head by 82,000 gift guides. So what’s a few more? Instead of doing a highly generalized, throw-everything-against-the-digital-wall gift guide, we’ll be breaking it up by category. Gifts for the guy who likes watches. Or the rugged type. Or the guy who’s always in a suit. Etc. Allen Edmonds Horsehair Dauber – $6 ($7.50)Most of us can get by with either applying shoe creme with an old sock, or, two daubers (one for black, one for brown… even with washing them after, you never know). But if the guy on your list is a true shoe hog, having more than a couple daubers on hand can be super convenient. The horsehair on the dauber makes for much easier, more even application of the cream, than compared to when it’s applied with a sock or rag. They will wear out after a while, and once that starts to happen, stray hairs start to muck up your polishing process. Good stocking stuffers. Nice and cheap. Solid quality from AE. Doesn’t ship free on it’s own. AE freebie shipping kicks in at $50. You could always pick this pair from Amazon for ten bucks. Currently shipping free with Prime, but could sell out. Whitmor 5 Section Closet Hanging Shelves – $6.67Perfect for storing shoes. I keep my sneakers in there. Gets them up off the floor where I’d otherwise kick them around and it’d be a mess. On a side note, I have a crap ton of pants I never wear. Also, I can’t tell you where all the hangers came from. They just appear. I know some came from the dry cleaner, but I don’t dry clean stuff THAT much. Saphir Renovateur – $11.00Widely regarded as the best all-around shoe leather care product on the market. Remember those “liquid gold” mac and cheese commercials that end with “eat like that guy you know” as the tag line? Right. This stuff. This is the real liquid gold. For your shoes. Shine (or, more accurately in this case, clean & condition)… like that guy you know. 100% Cotton Made in the USA Shoe Bags – $14.99Like garment bags… for footwear. Helps keep the dust off, and the soft all cotton fabric protects the shoes from any accidental drops, dings, pet claws, locust invasions, etc., while at home or on the road. And being that they’re all cotton and not synthetic, your shoes can breathe. Which is good. A portable, packable Leather Shoe Horn – $17.70 ($29.95)Perfect for the guys who travel a lot and/or the types who change shoes when they get to work in the morning (say, post commute or post trip to the gym). Sold by Banana Republic, so, always on sale. Want something to ship fast via Amazon’s prime service? Those are available too. Shoe Shine Gift CertificatesGot a cobbler in your city? Drop in and see if they offer gift certificates for shoe shines. Sure, plenty of guys actually like the process of shining their own shoes, but every so often it’s nice to just hand them over to the pros. They might come back looking better than ever. Personalized Shoe Trees – $29.95Laser engraved with either his initials, name, or even an image. (Which could get… weird?) Plus, Woodlore’s shoe trees uses nice cedar, and smooth acting springs. Not like super cheap shoe trees that can stick and bind after a while. Cashmere Socks – Nordstrom – $49.95File this under the category of things most people will never, ever consider buying for themselves, but if someone gets a pair for them, they’ll be eternally grateful. If he loves his shoe collection, then he pays attention to his feet. And nothing says appreciating feet quite like cashmere socks. Armorlux Made in France Wool Slippers – $85 – $95Going for soft, laid back, and indoors here. And these are anything but crummy faux-suede/faux-shearling throwaways from the clearance basket at your local discount store. These are the real deal. All wool uppers that breathe (so, no funky foot deep into a lazy morning at home). Lightweight crepe soles. Made in France. I believe solids are only currently available at Best Made Co? Massdrop has done shockingly cheap ($39) drops for these before, but they’re currently inactive. Fair Isle pattern is cheaper, and exclusive to Huckberry. A nice Shine Box (on its own, or, stocked with goods – $96 w/ ENJOY25) – $89 – $159You want something sturdy. Something that doesn’t wiggle or wobble. Something that you can put pressure on as you buff out a shoe over and over and over again. Just… be careful who you gift one of these things to (NSFW language). Huckberry Exclusive Duck Boots – $180Just because the weather is crap doesn’t mean his footwear has to look/feel awful. I know these get lots of play on this site, but they really are something. A do anything duck boot that’s been updated for the 21st century. Fully waterproof, breathable, full grain leather uppers and fully waterproof suede. They’re claiming sneaker like comfort too. They even look pretty slick. A pair of high quality Leather, Classic SneakersMany a brand is taking classic court shapes, and making them out of high quality materials. And the end result are shoes that have that great, classic athletic look, but last longer and feel far superior to basic Chucks or Jack Purcells. You could spend a fortune on these things, or, you could spend not quite as much. Also, there’s always the cheap but still oddly good quality Stan Smith. An upgraded version of his favorite style of shoe – $250+Just make sure you keep receipts for returns in case they don’t fit. Say he’s got a cheap pair of suede chukkas that he loves. Search out a nicer quality pair. Same goes for, say, wingtip boots and chelseas. This obviously works best if his current pair has more than a few miles on it. Doesn’t make sense to upgrade to a new pair if he just bought em’. But if an old, tired looking pair (that he still loves) is ready to give up the ghost, it could be one hell of a treat to go from that entry level pair to a little bit of luxury. The Dappered Gift Guide for… The Shoe Guy published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr The Dappered Gift Guide for… The Shoe Guy ![]() Optimo hats, Chicago published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Optimo hats, Chicago Allen Edmonds MacKenzie Wholecuts – $257 ($425)Wholecuts are not for everyone. But they’d be for a lot more people if they simply got in person with a pair instead of looking at them on a two-dimensional computer screen. That minimalism and lack of context can sometimes throw people off. The new-for-this-year, Wholecut, Medallion Toe MacKenzie from Allen Edmonds is all kinds of right. And while the dark brown was already in clearance, they just dumped the walnuts and coffee color shade in there as well. The dark brown in direct sun. I actually think they look BETTER These are first quality. They ship and return for free. No restocking fees, and there should be no nicks or scratches or slight imperfections that are what makes for a 2nds quality shoe. Fit seems true. A 10.5 D fits my 10.5 D feet just fine. If you’re a fan of the 65 last (the one that Strands and the Park Ave. are built on) you should do well with the MacKenzies in your normal size. You can find a full review here. The walnut shade. A hint of burnishing at the toe, and that elegant medallion. Sign up for their “collectors club” (a basic email login/creating an account) and you can save another 15% off on that first purchase. Drops them to $218.45. Don’t like the medallion? The plain toe MacLennan wholecuts are also on clearance for the same price. If you’re not sold, but thinking about it, keep an eye on these. After Christmas/New Years sales might see an extra 20% off clearance items coming. I don’t know that for sure. I don’t have any inside information there. But it’s not out of the realm of possibility. They’re clean. They’re mean. They’re Goodyear welted and made in Port Washington, Wisconsin. And there’s not a hint of a tattoo about them. That’s all. Carry on. Steal(ish) Alert: Allen Edmonds MacKenzie for $257 published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Steal(ish) Alert: Allen Edmonds MacKenzie for $257 Whether you’re looking for gift ideas or a quick upgrade for yourself, expect these to come around about once a month. You’ll find new arrivals and old favorites, especially good deals, or maybe something pricey to keep an eye on for future sales. The potential best of the best, which you may or may not have seen already. Got a tip on something that deserves to end up in the monthly Most Wanted? Send those in here. Filson Original Briefcase in Cinder Gray – $276.25 w/ EDNC18 ($325)Whu… Wha… WHEN did they start making their Original Briefcase in gray? Oh man… the way the bridle leather handles and the brass hardware stands out. That’ll do. Currently on sale with the code at East Dane. If they run out of stock, Nordstrom has them too (just not on sale). Brooks Brothers Water Resistant Italian Wool Jacket – $398.50 ($598)Not cheap, but that’s one hell of a grown up puffer jacket. Wool is kinda like a brushed suiting fabric. Removable quilted bib. Leather under collar. two colors to pick from. Here’s how you get the price: Buy two $150 e-gift cards, get two $25 e-gift cards for free (it’s a deal they’re currently running). Then at checkout, use the code ENJOY25 for 25% off. That drops the price to $448. Use all your gift cards, including the fifty worth of “free” gift cards. Final out of pocket cost is just under $400. If you live near a store? And they have one of these? Lucky you. They’re running a 40% off one item in store promo. All this rigmarole ends on Sunday 12/16. Nordstrom Double Monk – $124.95 | Leather Sneaker – $99.95 | Chelsea Boot – $134.95Nice work out of the Nordstrom shoe design team. All of these are from “Nordstrom Men’s Shop.” Meaning, they’re in house goods, and Norstrom takes the quality to price ratio seriously on those in-house brands. They all ship and return for free too, being that it’s Nordstrom. Amazon Goodthreads 100% Merino Wool Micro Stripe Crew – $28All merino? For twenty eight bucks? Boy. Those menswear brands exclusive to Uncle Jeff’s Internet Emporium sure are stepping their game up. Just a reminder that they’re still using Goodthreads, Buttoned Down, and their other exclusive brands as bait. Yes, bait. Because you have to be a Prime subscriber to buy them. Suitsupply Camel Bomber – $399They can keep the cape. I’ll take this. Just note that they run small. Like real small. A size at least. Maybe two depending on your body type. Ships and returns for free at least. BONUS Amazon Essentials Battle Ropes – $31.49 – $99Amazon really does sell everything (not just 100% merino crew necks). Maybe 2019 is the year you finally get in shape. Maybe you are in shape, but you want something new to mix it up at the home gym. Maybe you’re in the Dappered Threads weight loss club. Whatever the reason, know that I, in my long illustrious career as a headless reluctant model on the internet, have tried just about everything to stay relatively fit (Personal Training, Running, Spinning, Martial Arts/Kickboxing). And while I’ve got a routine that suits me that uses plenty of those previously mentioned ways to workout, battle ropes continuously kick my ass. They’re absurd. In a good way. And they’re hugely versatile. Head here to read Brett’s rundown at Art of Manliness. Price above varies on the length and width of the ropes you’re after. BONUS II For all the children of the world to join hands and sing together in the spirit of harmony and peace…Happy holidays fellas. Want more most wanted? Click here for the top 5 most wanted lists from previous months. Most Wanted Affordable Style – December 2018 published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Most Wanted Affordable Style – December 2018 |
FashionPassion
I lived my life in Europe and now a global citizen in fashion. I have attended the American University in Texas and hold master degree in Media & Communications. I have also spent 4 years of formal training in clothing and fashion. I love travelling around the world and being in different artistic environments has helped me discover more and more about my passions which is fashion. Personal Links |