The end of the year means it’s time to hand out some awards. No, there’re no little statues to pass along, but over the next few days we’ll still highlight some of the best in affordable men’s style from this past year. And it was a good one. Feel free to send in additional nominations to [email protected]. Spier & Mackay Goodyear Welted Shoes – $186 – $223.50 w/ BOXING18 ($248 – $298)Goodyear welted and made in Portugal. No, it’s still not the flippin’ Nike Killshots. And it sure as heck isn’t those “intentionally ugly” Balenciaga Sneakers or their trickle down copies. Woof. Classic styling that’s updated but not trendy. Fine leathers (especially the Box Calf used on the $298 price point shoes). Made in Portugal. Goodyear welted. Spier & Mackay has done a lot right in the last few years, but their introduction into the men’s dress shoe market has been particularly worth of note. Currently on sale through January third. Head here for a full review. Also Receiving Votes: Banana Republic’s suede Chelsea Sneakers, the Allen Edmonds Mackenzie Wholecut (now on sale), Target’s “Keanu” Single Monk, Good Man Brand’s Legend Sneaker, Huckberry’s Duck Boots (for bad weather and you don’t want to wear the nice stuff), any Allen Edmonds first quality on-sale or clearance shoes for a good discount that ship and return for free. Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Shoes published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Shoes
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Depending on your location and culture, tattoos can be perceived as anything from a mark of high status all the way to a symbol of a criminal. Because of that, it makes sense to consider a few things before getting inked yourself. If you have tattoos or you’re considering getting one and you’ve talked about it with friends, you’ve probably gotten a lot of unsolicited advice. At the end of the day, the big question is, should you get a tattoo or not? And while we can’t answer that question for you, we can definitely provide you with some insights that help you reach a conclusion that makes sense for you. Tattoo HistoryArchaeological evidence suggests that tattoos have pretty much been around since the dawn of mankind. As such, it’s one of the oldest forms of personal style that exists and a lot older than clothes, for example. Historically, tattoos had three principal meanings:
The culture that is probably most widely associated with tattoos is the Maori of Polynesia. In fact, the word tattoo originates from the Maori word “tatau” which means as much as to strike. Maori culture incorporates several rituals and rites of passage, especially for young men, that all evolved around tattoos. The Maori also practice a related art form which is called Ta Moko which includes carving of the skin which leaves a slight texture once it’s healed. You’ve probably heard of tattoos being very popular among sailors and was in fact, a Maori influence that led to that popularity among them. Now for sailors, tattoos have very specific meanings. A turtle was a sign of having crossed the equator whereas an anchor would mean that you crossed the Atlantic and so forth. Historically, sailors often had a reputation for being rough around the edges and sometimes even violent. The popularity of tattoos with seafarers secured a societal stigma around tattoos being only for people at the fringes of society. In fact, it remained outlawed until the mid 20th century. While tattooing has surged in popularity in Europe and in the US, particularly with Millennials, there are others, oftentimes older people, in society who still associate a certain taboo with tattoos and associate it with prison life or gang culture. That being said, with more and more people having at least one tattoo, that stigma is slowly but surely fading. In fact, 40% of Millennials in the US today have at least one tattoo. Things To Keep In Mind Before Getting InkedUltimately, no matter if you like it or not or how well it’s done, people will always see it and judge you for it. As I said many times before, in an ideal world, people shouldn’t judge you by your outward appearance but they subconsciously do, there’s nothing you can do about that. On a more practical note, consider exactly where you want to place your tattoo because chances are that there might come a time, even if you think to the contrary right now, where you want to hide your tattoo. Just think about meeting the conservative parents of your significant other for the first time or maybe at a job interview at a white-collar law firm. Overall, if you decide to get a tattoo, I think it’s really great if there’s a story behind it and some meaning. So rather than picking something out from a menu, come up with something that really means something to you whether it’s your children or deceased sibling and creates a tattoo that speaks to you in a way that you can look at it for years to come without changing your mind. Now once you’ve decided on the design, it’s best to keep the design with you for six months to a year and if after that time period you still like it and you still want it, it’s probably time to get a tattoo and you won’t change your mind about it anytime soon. In other words, if you’re in a hurry to get a tattoo, you’re likely not in the right mindset to get it at this point in time. That being said, there have been advancements in the ink technology in recent years. Some New York University students came up with ink that actually can fade automatically after I think three months, six months, and a year. Alternatively, the tattoo can also be removed with a special solution by your local tattoo artist and no lasering is necessary. On that note, lasering away a tattoo doesn’t always work 100% so it pays to really think about it and not just rely on being able to get rid of it after the fact. What To Expect…First of all, there should be a good vibe between the tattoo artist and you so everything is clear and there’s a good level of communication. The artist will apply a stencil to make sure you have the size as well as the angle exactly right. The first needlework will be the outline which is done with a loaded tattoo gun and a liner needle. Because this liner needle covers the smallest surface amount, you will likely have the most pain at this stage of your tattoo process. After the artist is done with the liner needle, he’ll probably rinse your tattoo area and will then use broader needles to add shades to your tattoo. Once the tattoo is completely inked, it will be soaped and washed and you’ll get a sterile bandage on top of it. Definitely expect some slight bleeding during and after the process. Before settling on a tattoo studio, I suggest to read some reviews, maybe talk to friends with a good experience, and also read up on the latest technology of inks and the tattooing process. Tattoo Dos & Don’ts1. Study Up Your DesignBy that, I mean really think about what you want, get inspired by different tattoos so you end up with something you truly love. 2. Choose A Reputable Tattoo ParlorOtherwise, you may end up with something that looks really really terrible. It goes without saying that it should have several sanitary measures to guarantee safe procedures. For example, that means the artist should wear gloves and the needles should be sanitary and taken out of the package in front of the customer. Furthermore, different artists have different areas of tattoo expertise and you should try to find a perfect match for your design. 3. HydrateDo drink plenty of water the night before you get a tattoo because you don’t want your skin to reject the ink because you’re dehydrated. 4. Stay StillDo try to remain as still as possible in the chair, otherwise, the artist might get frustrated and it will hurt you more. 5. Expect To Shell Out CashDo expect your tattoo to cost anywhere from five hundred to a thousand dollars for a small one and of course, a lot more for bigger all body tattoos. Remember, you’re essentially hiring an artist to create a piece of art and you shouldn’t try to lowball him and instead give him a good tip. A common phrase in the industry states “Good tattoos aren’t cheap and cheap tattoos aren’t good”. Because your body’s immune system naturally attacks the tattoo, it will fade over time and so you may have to go in for touch-ups and because of that, it pays to have that good long-term relationship which is helped by tips. 6. Follow Aftercare InstructionsDo follow the aftercare instructions to the tee, otherwise, you may end up with a disfigured tattoo or even worse, an infection. The exact healing time can vary from person to person but in general, it takes about 2 weeks. You should definitely wait that long before you expose a tattoo to the sun, salt water, or other abrasive elements. 7. Don’t Get Inked On Your Neck, Hands, & FaceThat way, it’ll always be easy for you to look professional, you can have business wear and you can go about your own business without people bugging you about your tattoo. 8. Don’t Tattoo Sensitive AreasDon’t tattoo potentially sensitive areas, you know what I mean! Don’t tattoo your foot soles! 9. Don’t Get A Tattoo Under The Influence Of Drugs Or AlcoholDon’t get a tattoo under the influence of alcohol other drugs or peer pressure. It’s simply not worth it. Also, think about it this way, just like nobody should be able to talk you out of getting a tattoo, nobody should be able to talk you into it. It’s your decision and your decision alone. 10. Don’t Get A Tattoo Just To Impress PeopleDon’t get a tattoo to impress people to get a certain standing or to be perceived as a badass or maybe even to commemorate a relationship. Why? According to a 2017 study from Poland, tattoos don’t make you any more or less attractive to women in general. While some women do consider men with tattoos to be healthier and more masculine, that same group of women also thinks that those people are not as nurturing in a relationship or partnership. CONCLUSIONTattoos are one of the oldest art forms of personal self-expression in terms of style and you should choose them wisely so they reflect your personal style, don’t let others or substances pressure you into or out of it and it’s important for you to do your homework so you end up with something that you’re proud of. Do you have any tattoos? What are your experiences?Tattoo Dos and Don’ts published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Tattoo Dos and Don’ts The Thursday Handfuls are great, but what if Monday (or Tuesday) rolls around and there are a few sales that can’t wait til the weekend? You’ll find three of the best, with a few picks from each, to start the week below. (Top Photo Credit) #1. Spier & Mackay: 25% off Everything w/ BOXING18
Spier launched this sale last week and… poof. Their site went down. That BOXING18 code was supposed to expire tomorrow (1/1) but due to their site outage, they extended it through 1/3. Awfully kind of them. Really nice price on that Navy Hopsack Sportcoat/blazer, as well as their Goodyear welted shoes. #2. Allen Edmonds: New Reductions to Clearance
Oh man. Those First Avenue Boots. HNNNNNNNNNNGggggggggggggghhhh. But there are some holiday credit card bills a comin’, and I need another pair of boots like I need scurvy. Full review of those (awesome) boots can be found here though. Not sure how to wear Merlot McAllisters? Here’s how. Now if you’ll excuse me, I need to go eat some limes. #3. Mr. Porter: Sale is On
Mr. Porter just doesn’t run many sales. But they do an after Christmas spectacular ever year. Mr. Porter is also… pretty weird. Very high fashion. Super spendy. Picks above have been limited to stuff that might be more in tune with our little corner of the internet. Also know that Mr. Porter stuff can go quick, and at this point, almost all sized stuff is scattered in terms of what’s left. BONUS Banana Republic: Extra 50% off Sale Items
A lot of the sale section is picked over… yet there are some serious gems in there. That motion stretch, Italian wool knit sportcoat is tremendous. Especially in the on-sale Burgundy color. It’s not super bright. Just different enough. And that Italian Melton Bomber has been on the radar since it debuted in early fall. Extra 10% off for cardmembers with BRCARD of course. BONUS II: Nordstrom Rack Extra 25% off Clearance
Extra 25% off is marked online. No codes to mess with. Unlike big brother Nordy, these things don’t ship and return for free (unless your return is going to a physical Nordstrom Rack store, and then the return is free). Bonus III Nordstrom: Half Yearly Sale ends Wednesday
Wait, Nordstrom is throwing a big sale? I kid. I kid. Just in case you somehow missed it. Or, are unaware that the sale ends Wendesday. Full picks here. And yes, some of them have sold out. Also worth a mention…
Monday Sales Tripod – Post Xmas Sales for Men Wrap Up published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Monday Sales Tripod – Post Xmas Sales for Men Wrap Up ![]() Everyday Denim cloth back in stock published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Everyday Denim cloth back in stock How well do you know your hats? Let us discuss the key vocabulary for traditional men’s hats, common shapes and styles, and traditional construction materials. Parts Of The HatPinch / CreaseThe pinch or crease refers to the indentations made along the front, back, and sides of the hat in conjunction with the overall crown shape. One tip related to this specific part of the hat, don’t handle your hats by the crease. It seems natural to do this because of the way that it fits into the hand but if you handle your hats by the crease often, your hands are eventually going to leave oil on the surface of the hat and that might stain it so it’s best to always carry your hat by the brim. CrownAs you might guess, refers to the central body of the hat. The part that extends upward covering the head. In most cases, the natural shape of a hat’s crown is a dome, although exceptions do exist such as the straw boater, through a process called blocking where water and steam is applied to the surface of a hat, it can be shaped into any number of different crown configurations. While water and steam are applied to the crown to shape it, it’s also stretched over a pre-existing form usually made of wood or metal. This is how the hat can hold its shape after it dries. One other note here, the uppermost peak of the crown is sometimes referred to as the tip. Hat BandThis is the strip of decorative material encircling the crown positioned just above the brim. It’s most often made from a ribbon which can feature a bow or a series of decorative folds, a leather strip, or a piece of braided cord which can sometimes feature tassels. The Hat band is also sometimes accented further by a decorative pin or a feather. BrimThe brim is the horizontal ledge protruding from the bottom of the hat and extending outward providing shade and protection from the elements for the wearer. The width and style of the brim in conjunction with the shape of the crown are the two things that most directly contribute to a hat’s overall type or classification. The shape and curvature of the brim from front to back and from side to side is sometimes collectively referred to as the flange of a hat. Another style tip here, while it’s a good idea to carry your hat and take it on and off by use of the brim, don’t store your hat sitting on its brim when you’re not wearing it. If you do this, the brim can lose its shape over time so the best course of action when you set your hat down is to place it upside down so that it’s resting on the top of the crown. Alternatively, you can keep your hats on a hat rack, this way, you don’t have to worry about brim or the crown losing their shapes over time. One other note related somewhat to storing your hats, when it comes to cleaning, you should occasionally brush your hats with a hat brush to make sure that they don’t accumulate dust or any other sorts of particles.
Liner TippingThe optional piece of fabric on the inside of a hat usually made from cotton or silk, though sometimes made from velvet that will feature the hat maker’s trademark most of the time. For estate hats which is to say, vintage pre-owned hats, or for hats that are yours that have seen a considerable amount of wear, you may occasionally want to clean the inner lining. This can be done with a little bit of soap and water. Alternatively, you can just remove the inner lining as I’ve done with many of my own personal hats. SweatbandThe sweatband or inner band is a strip just inside the crown that keeps the hat better fitted to the wearer’s head and also diverts perspiration. It’s most typically made of leather for felt hats and made of fabric for straw hats. One tip here, if you flip the sweatband inside out when you’re storing your hats, which again should be done upside down, that will help the sweatband to air out so that perspiration or hair product don’t accumulate there over time. General ClassificationsSnap BrimWe’ll start with the term snap brim which simply refers to a brim that can be snapped or turned on different parts. Usually, it’s done in the front and left up in the back. This is a common feature for fedoras and trilbies in particular. Stingy BrimThe term stingy brim describes a hat with a very short brim usually of about one to two inches and the term can also be considered a style of hat in its own right though you won’t necessarily see that done too often. Packable / CrushableYou might sometimes see hats described as being packable or crushable. A common misconception about this term is that the hat can be really beaten up, totally scrunched down into a ball and that it will perfectly reform itself once you take it out and shape it a little bit. That isn’t necessarily true, while hats marked as packable or crushable can generally receive a little bit more abuse than their stiff counterparts, it’s still best to treat them with care and they may need a little bit of steam and water if they’re really out of shape. ShapeableThe term shapeable applies to hats that have a metal wire sewn inside of their brims. Some hats come with plastic wires sewn inside the brims and these generally hold their shape whereas the metal is a little bit more malleable so you can style the brim in a number of very specific ways. Ultraviolet Protection FactorNot to be confused with SPF, the term UPF stands for ultraviolet protection factor. This classification takes into consideration a few factors such as the weave, color, weight, and stretch of a hat and most often, hats with the UPF designation are also coated with a bit of ultraviolet protective agent. There are also specific UPF ratings which are as follows:
Crown ShapesTeardropThe teardrop or C crown shape either looks like a teardrop if you are considering the entirety of the hat or like a letter C if you’re looking primarily at the back portion of the crown. Center DentThe center crease or center dent style typically features one central crease that runs down the middle of the crown typically at a depth of about one to two inches. Diamond CrownThe diamond crown is a slightly less popular shape than the more commonly seen teardrop but it was a popular style for a time in the 1940s and it’s a little bit wider than your typical C crown shape. TelescopeAlso know as the flat top, which is typically seen on everything from top hats to Gambler hats, straw boaters, and porkpie hats. This crown shape either features a totally flat top crown or a slight lip that runs around the perimeter of the crown at a very small depth. Open CrownFinally, there’s the open or round crown which simply refers to the natural shape of the crown before it’s shaped into a different style. Also, the crown can be left round for some styles such as the bowler or derby hat. Common Hat Construction MaterialsCottonCotton hats are usually quite durable and also sometimes packable or crushable and they’re typically on the softer side as compared to some other construction materials. Wool FeltOne of the most common construction materials for traditional men’s hats is wool felt which is crafted by pressing together wool fibers and applying heat and moisture which makes the fibers matte together into a cohesive surface. Like cotton, wool felt is soft and can come in just about any color. Fur FeltFur felt is created in the same manner as wool felt but typically in finer and often even softer materials. Most often from beaver or rabbit pelts. Fur felt is noticeably softer to the touch than wool felt and as such, you can expect to pay a higher price for the increase in quality and luxury. StrawThere are great many varieties of straw used to make hats which vary slightly in strength, durability, and color. For example, raffia is a straw used to make many packable and crushable hats whereas straw coming from the toquilla palm is commonly used in the construction of Panama hats. Most any type of straw can theoretically be woven into a hat but higher quality selections are typically handpicked for their evenness in color, texture, and pattern. PolyesterPolyester is a less commonly used material for hats or at least for hats of quality but it is out there. ToyoAs the name suggests, these hats are made from strips of paper that are woven together similarly to straw and then formed into the desired shape. These hats have been increasing in popularity in recent years due to their low cost and relative durability although they’re not quite as durable as straw. CONCLUSIONSo now that you’re aware of all of the various terms and materials that go into making traditional men’s hats, you’ll be better equipped to go out and find a style that suits you best. We’d like to know if you wear hats regularly, what styles do you prefer? Share with us in the comments section below! Men’s Hats: Anatomy & Vocabulary published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Men’s Hats: Anatomy & Vocabulary Next in our continuing series on how to wear various hues in menswear is the color purple. We’ll explain why it should be one of the first shades you reach for when you need a pop of color in your outfit. Many of the colors we’ve touched on (pink, orange, and green, for example) are either neglected, underused or consciously avoided, and purple fits these descriptions. However, purple used to be the color reserved for the garments of kings and emperors, made with rare and precious dyes. Today, purple is not hard to make, so its use should not be limited to a chosen few. You don’t have to be a dandy or the late Prince to work purple into your wardrobe. Here’s how to do it. A Brief History of Wearing PurpleFor much of Western history, the color purple was worn only by the aristocracy, primarily because making it was so difficult. It was a unique color and only produced by extracting the juice from a variety of sea snail; the quantity produced was so small that it took up to a quarter of a million snails to make an ounce of dye. This process was first developed by the ancient Phoenicians, with the color being used in the garments of royalty throughout the Near East and the Mediterranean, including by the Roman emperors. In Rome, no one but the emperor could wear the color, and violators would face death. Only in the mid 19th century did industrial processes enable the production of artificial dyes to create purple. Since then, the color has become accessible to the mainstream though it has remained fairly rare, but now it is more from lack of popularity than exclusivity. Shades of PurpleIt’s useful to remember that purple comes in a variety of shades or gradations, some with more red or pink in them, others containing tones of brown. It’s fairly easy to wear maroon or burgundy, which can be seen as reddish purples, in menswear, but we want something new, not easy, so we’re talking more about the other colors in the chart below. General Principles for Wearing PurpleMany of the guidelines for wearing purple pertain to any bright or unusual color in clothing. First, such colors should be combined with contrasting muted hues. If your tie is green with purple stripes, wear a dark grey suit. Purple socks? Wear beige pants and brown suede shoes. If you wear one item that’s purple, it’s risky (but not impossible) to wear any other bright colors; you take the chance of looking clownish. Instead, you can wear purple readily alongside navy, gray, and beige. In other words, it’s compatible with three of the most classic and versatile menswear colors out there and with other staid colors like olive green. Blue, which is a cousin color to purple, makes for particularly stunning combinations. ![]() A rather bold combination of purple and orange that works, though the main color is still a more muted olive green In terms of seasonality, purple is particularly versatile because it exists “at the meeting point between warm red and cool blue.” So, depending on whether your item leans more toward the maroon and magenta side (hot) of the purple spectrum or more toward the violet and lilac side (cool), you can wear purple all year long. Interestingly, maroon and the hotter shades work best in winter while a cooler violet is perfect for spring. Purple doesn’t have too much impact when worn by those with light skin, though it can bring out more pink in your face if you wear a lot of it close to your head, as in a bright purple shirt or sport coat, though this is not usually recommended. Stronger versions of purple are worn better by those with browner skin, which is also true of any bright colors, as there is less of a harsh contrast in tone. Accessories: The Easiest Option1. Pocket SquaresLike most bright or atypical colors, purple is best (and most easily) worn first as an accent in small doses. You can think of yourself as maintaining the traditional scarcity of the color and begin with a pocket square that contains just a smattering of purple mixed in with other tones rather than a completely purple one. In the charcoal pocket square from Fort Belvedere pictured directly below, the purple is there but completely subtle, especially when peeking out of your jacket’s breast pocket. ![]() Charcoal, Purple and Blue Silk-Wool Pocket Square with Paisley Motifs – Fort Belvedere Afterward, as you gain confidence and get excited about the color you can increase the amount of purples, such as in a pocket square with a purple border or one that contains purple as the main color. ![]() Silk Pocket Square in Light Purple Violet with Green Paisley – Fort Belvedere 2. Purple TiesFrom there, you can take purple out of your pocket and put it front and center in the form of a bow tie or necktie. The same principle applies–start with a dash of the color, like a purple paisley or stripe before you go for a tie that is mainly purple unless you like to jump in with both feet, in which case, go for it! Be careful never to wear a shiny satin silk tie, however, as it will come across looking cheap. Always select a high-quality silk, which will be worth the investment. ![]() Shantung Striped Green, Purple and Cream Silk Tie – Fort Belvedere 3. Purple Flowers and ShoelacesTwo unique accessories that will elevate your style are a purple boutonniere and purple dress shoelaces. A purple flower in your lapel buttonhole is special because it reminds us that purple is a natural color. If you want a boutonniere that is maintenance free, one from Fort Belvedere that is made of a realistic silk will do the trick. It’s also a great way to inject a dose of springtime into your outfit when purple flowers are not in bloom and therefore not easy to find. ![]() This Violet Marguerite Boutonniere by Fort Belvedere is handmade in Germany Something you won’t see every day is purple shoelaces, which are an inexpensive way to show personality while still appropriate to dress shoes. Like a pocket square these are a small dose of the color, but in an unexpected place, and for under ten dollars they liven up a pair of black shoes without looking too aggressive. Showing the flexibility of the color, purple laces are also special as a sign of springtime, paired with a warm weather shoe, like a pair of white bucks. ![]() Purple dress shoelaces from Fort Belvedere in a muted hue 4. Purple SocksContinuing on the subject of footwear, we at The Gentleman’s Gazette aren’t fans of bright “crazy socks,” but ribbed purple socks are surprisingly low-key in the right shade, combined with another tone, such as the purple and dark green shadow stripe pictured below. They won’t immediately direct everyone’s attention to your ankles like cheap neon purple ones but will offer an added bit of interest to your look. You can capitalize on the versatility of purple by wearing them with a variety of pants and shoe combinations: brown, beige, navy, gray, and others. ![]() Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Dark Green & Purple with brown suede shoe and khakis Intermediate Difficulty: Purple Shirts and Sweaters1. ShirtsTo bring a larger and more visible amount of purple in your wardrobe, try wearing it on your torso in the form of a shirt or sweater (cardigan or knit vest), ideally under a sport coat or suit jacket. The first rule with purple shirts is to go light. Bright solids make you look like you’re a twentysomething playboy ready for the club. If you want to wear a solid, what you desire are shirts commonly labeled “lavender,” but an even better choice is a white shirt with a light purple windowpane grid or thin stripe over the top. In other words, keep the purple in the pattern. All of these are actually conservative enough that they are fairly common as business wear in the UK, though you’re less likely to encounter them in North America. ![]() Purple shirt (and tie) worn well in a light tone at left from Chester Barrie and badly in a harsh tone at right (from Express) A shirt with a lavender tattersall check, perhaps combined with a second color in the pattern, adds a dose of spring color to any outfit. In the example below, the main grid is in a classic navy, and there are fewer purple lines interspersed. Tattersalls are perfect for a “smart casual” or “business casual” look, as they straddle both urban and country style. If you’re talking more casual shirts, the field opens up, again with the caveat that lighter, subdued purples are preferable to loud ones that hurt your eyes. In warm weather, especially, a lavender gingham or Bengal stripe shirt can fit the bill nicely. 2. KnitwearOn the other hand, in winter, bright knit cardigans or vests have been traditional for some time within usually staid British style. Having a shock of orange, cobalt blue or purple is accepted as a way to bring some happiness into cold winter days. In such cases, the hot color on the sweater is still covered by a jacket and accompanied by otherwise sober clothes. For instance, the image below, two purple items appear conservative under a gray jacket. The outfit at below left might be worn similarly beneath a brown or olive tweed sport coat. ![]() Purple British knitwear: a Cording’s vest and a purple sweater (and shirt) from Chester Barrie worn well with a conservative gray jacket Advanced: Pants, Sports Coats and Suits1. TrousersWhen talking purple pants and jackets, we’re entering more treacherous territory. Purple trousers will inevitably be of the extreme “go-to-hell” variety, and those in the grape family can be especially shocking. Really, the best chance of pulling off purple pants is to lean toward the maroon side of the spectrum. These will still get a lot of attention but are less “in your face.” As a bonus, maroon pants play really well with navy and gray and look more formal. ![]() Purple go-to-hell pants at left and a more subdued maroon pair worn beautifully by Wei Koh of The Rake magazine (via Permanent Style). 2. Purple JacketsEven more daring is the purple sport coat. Because it is often a top layer, it is guaranteed to be noticed and can quickly make you the center of attention. This goes against Beau Brummell’s often quoted maxim that a man who is truly well dressed isn’t noticed for his clothes, only for the general aura he projects of being well put together. Unless you’re an entertainer or want to be looked at, uphold the same principle used for purple shirts and keep color in the form of a windowpane check, like Wei Koh does in the photo above. Your jacket’s base color or pattern, such as a Prince of Wales check, will then be conservative, and you’ll just have some purple lines–an overplaid–on top of it. This is ![]() At left, a Pal Zileri gray jacket with light purple windowpane overcheck; at right, a bold purple sports coat worn by Christopher Korey 3. Purple SuitsThe most purple you can wear would come in the form of a suit. This is also the most difficult to achieve successfully. You can very easily look like a large grape or the Joker. For those who feel compelled to go so far, one key is to get the absolutely right shade of purple, and the other is to have the right skin tone. Just search Google for images of purple suits, and you’ll quickly realize that men with brown skin rock the purple suit. Of course, once you wear a purple suit, you have entered into the world of contemporary fashion. You can still apply the principles of good tailoring, but, strictly speaking, you’d no longer be wearing classic style. ConclusionOnce a forbidden color reserved for royalty, then commonly associated with dandies and showmen (all of the above in the case of Prince), purple has a lot to recommend it for classic menswear. It can be worn in a number of ways and coordinates with a surprising range of other colors. Purple really offers something for everyone. If you have conservative taste, you can wear it in the form of an accessory or in the pattern of an otherwise staid dress shirt, while the bold can experiment with the boundaries of traditional style with larger doses of the color. Which camp do you fall under? Do you wear purple? Tell us how in the Comments below.How to Wear Purple as a Menswear Color published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr How to Wear Purple as a Menswear Color Nordstrom Half-Yearly Sale Winter 2018-19There are seasonal clearance sales, and then there are seasonal clearance sales. This is the latter. This is one that you probably don’t want to brush aside. It’s not just any other clearance. It’s Nordstrom, and for whatever reason, they continue to do just about everything right, while the rest of the department store retail world seems to get it wrong. Great in-house brands. Terrific 3rd party stuff. Deep cuts, usually reasonable size selections, and as always, everything ships and returns for free. Their sale section is easy to browse too… it’s just… enormous. So if you don’t feel like scrolling, and scrolling, and scrolling… you’ll find a selection below of what we’ve deemed to be the best of the best. But if we’ve missed something in this massive half-yearly sale that deserves a mention? Shoot an email to [email protected]. Okay. Off we go. Good Man Brand Legend Sneakers – $132.66 ($198)Cleaner than the Board of Health. Both are pebbled leather (which is a little tough to see on a screen when it comes to the white option), and both are made in Italy. Also available in black, which is pretty close to sold out at post time. Head here for a review of the smooth leather/blue heeled version, which sadly isn’t included in this sale. Nordstrom Cashmere V-Neck Sweater – $98.90 ($145)Not cheap since it’s cashmere, but, under $100 isn’t half bad for a good cashmere sweater. Tons of colors to pick from too. Also available in a crew neck if that’s what you’re after (more crewneck cashmere colors can be found here… not sure why they’re in different spots). 1901 Auburn Chukka Boot – $73.90 ($124.95)Looks like a smooth leather version of their highly appreciated 1901 suede chukka. Different sole on these (no studs) but still some traction. Barbour Lightweight Ashby Wax Jacket – $239.40 ($399)A hefty discount on heritage British sportswear. Lightweight here, but still waxed. Corduroy collar. Wolverine 1000 Mile Wedge Boot – $254.98 ($425)Well all right then. Was going for $280 during the big Anniversary Sale back in July, then went back to full price. Now? 40% off. Horween leather here helps too. Made in the USA. Sizes are already starting to go quick. Nordstrom Smartcare Trim Fit Solid Dress Shirt – $29.90 ($49.50)Why do you guys always recommend Nordstrom dress shirts? Look, don’t take our word for it. After 160+ reviews, these are still almost 5/5 stars. That’s hard to do these days on the interwebz. Also available with a button down collar if that’s what you’re after. Allen Edmonds Hearst Cap Toe Boot – $249.90 ($395)Who? Hearst? Is this a Nordstrom exclusive? Made in Port Washington. Cap toe. Ankle high, but not a true chukka. Dainite studded rubber sole for traction. Made in Italy 1901 Extra Trim Fit Wool & Silk Sport Coat – $149.49 ($299)Not bad at all for made in Italy. $150? For real? Sure. Exterior is a blend of wool and silk from the Zignone mill. Just butterfly lined in the back. A true slim fit here. Cole Haan ‘Colton’ Chukka Boot – $124.98 ($250)Very, very well reviewed. Storm welt. Blue panels at the top and grip on the sole. A Nordstrom exclusive. Now half off. 1901 Extra Trim Fit Wool/Cotton Sportcoat – $149.49 ($299)Another oddly inexpensive, made in Italy sportcoat. Wool/Cotton blend from Marzotto. Calibrate Trim Fit Stretch Solid Dress Shirt – $31.80 – $46.90 ($79.50)Not quite sure why there’s two different price points (the white is the cheaper $32 option), but not bad for a ships and returns for free stretch dress shirt. 96% cotton and 4% spandex. John W. Nordstrom Fiore Medallion Toe Derby – $97.49 ($195)Not an oxford, but an open laced derby. Still, the sleekness and that dress medallion should make them suit worthy. Made in Italy too. Nordstrom 100% Cashmere Scarves – $49.75 ($99.50) and/or Hats – $34.75 ($69.50)What’s an after Christmas clearance event without a bunch of cashmere scarves and hats? And since it’s Nordstrom, you can count on the cashmere they selected to be of good quality, especially for these reasonable prices. Goodman Brand Soft Cotton Sportcoats in Gray or Blue – $178.80 ($298)Obviously these are more than a bit on the “chopped” side, and despite that, I still love them. I wear mine (a wool/cotton number) more like a cardigan, often with henleys and t-shirts and sneakers. All cotton here. Polo RL Mixed Media Gloves in Deerskin – $40.80 ($68) or Quilted Leather – $46.80 ($78)Winter just technically started, so, lots of opportunity left to wear these things. Touch screen compatible too. Bonobos Jetsetter Slim Fit Unconstructed Blazer – $224.98 ($450)Totally unlined in the back. 97% wool and 3% poly. Half off, and unlike Bonobos when it gets to half off, this isn’t final sale. You can very much return it. Calibrate Solid Merino Wool Blend Socks – $7.49 ($12.50)I don’t have any experience with these socks, but Calibrate is still a Nordstrom house brand. Mid-calf length. And merino wool blend for dress socks is a must around these parts. Good Man Brand Slim Fit Merino Wool Track Jacket – $136.80 ($228)Yes please. A nice mix of modern style with heritage materials. 100% merino wool. J. Crew Ludlow Trim Fit Solid Wool Blazer – $212.49 ($425)Well this is confusing. The description clearly states that it’s super 120s Loro Piana Italian wool (and the shot of the inside of the jacket shows the corresponding label). But J. Crew’s legacy blazers have been made with American wool for a while now? Or is this a suit jacket? Beats me. The Rail Carlin Work Boot – $71.98 ($120)From one of Nordstrom’s in-house brands. Red Wing looks without the steep price. John W. Nordstrom 80% wool / 20% Cashmere Overcoat – $299.49 ($599)A basic, but being that it’s not just Nordstrom, but their upgraded John W. line, you can be pretty assured that it’ll be a well executed basic. And 20% cashmere is nothing to sneeze at. Sizes are starting to get a bit short. Norstrom Signature Trim Fit Plaid Wool Sport Coat – $359.40 ($599)Made in Italy. Should do well with jeans. Really like that it’s just butterfly lined in the back. Trim fit too. Get yer professorial-look on. Ted Baker Merman Faux Leather Briefcase – $77.40 ($129)Faux leather, but that stripe is pretty slick and the price sure is right… assuming it doesn’t look or feel super plastic in person. Nordstrom 100% Cashmere Scarfs in Gray or Blue Windowpane – $49.75 ($99.50)In case you need something to go with that new topcoat. 1901 Made in Italy Extra Trim Fit Wool Blend Sport Coat – $179.49 ($349)Fabric is 94% wool and 6% poly. Considered a true trim fit, and it looks like the tails might be on the shorter side? Another pretty good price for being made in Italy. John W. Nordstrom Double Monks – $92.49 ($185)More sub $100 Italian shoes. Speaking of oddly affordable made in Italy goods… I’m guessing these are blake stitched? Plain toe here. Not bad if you’re in the market for a pair of double monks. Vintage 1946 Cotton/Poly Henleys – $29.75 ($59.50)Mainly cotton with some poly in there for softness and stretch. Lots of colors and even some stripes or rib knit to pick from. 1901 Stevens Waterproof Chukka Boot – $78.90 ($124.95)One of the quiet gems of the sale. Claims to be waterproof, and, oddly enough, they’re made in Italy. Just one review and they say it’s a little more gray than brown in person. Which isn’t a problem for many of us. John W. Nordstrom Plaid Wool Sport Coat – $249.49 ($499)From their higher end John W. Nordstrom line. Plaid has a bit of a cold weather look to it, but I can see it being worn in the spring. Made in Mexico. Selected Homme Colorblock Sneaker – $80.98 ($135)Not bad for a made in Portugal leather and suede sneaker… that also ships and returns for free. Tumi Alpha Bravo Aviano Slim Briefcase – $300 ($375)Super sleek and modern but still highly functional. Ballistic nylon and leather. Easily slips over the handle of a rolling suitcase. Calibrate Modern Trim Fit Car Coat – $149.49 ($299)From their younger leaning Calibrate brand. So expect it to be a true trim fit made specifically for the slimmer fellas. Cole Haan Wool GrandPro Tennis Sneaker – $64.98 ($130)A combination of old school and new school materials. Nordstrom Merino Wool Polo Sweater – $42.49 ($85)The humble polo with long sleeves, and… made in merino! 100% fine merino wool knit. That’s huge. Much more comfortable and breathable compared to cotton which will stick and grab to your skin and soak up any perspiration and hold onto it. Nordstrom V-Neck Merino Sweaters – $39.75 ($79.50)And now basic v necks. Seven colors to pick from. After almost 50 reviews, they’re still almost 100% five out of five stars. Nordstrom Signature Trim Fit Windowpane Wool Sport Coat – $359.40 ($599)More made in Italy sportcoats. More of a windowpane forward pattern here. Still trim fit. Allen Edmonds Renton Chukka Boots – $236.98 ($395)Are these a Nordstrom Exclusive? Seems pretty similar to plain chukkas from AE’s past, but these have that broguing around the heel as well as a studded Dainite sole, standard. Made in the USA and Goodyear welted. Cole Haan Diamond Quilted Jacket – $150 ($300)Heritage British Sportswear looks… without the mega steep price that usually goes with those brands. Also available in olive. Nordstrom Cashmere Waffle Knit Crew – $124.90 ($179)An investment, but check out that texture. 100% cashmere too. And Nordstrom just doesn’t cut corners with their in-house branded stuff. Nordstrom Signature Addison Windowpane Wool Blend Overcoat – $479.40 ($799)An investment… but that windowpane pattern is something else. Made in Italy too. Wolverine 1000 Mile Plain Toe Boot in Charcoal – $218.98 ($365)Made in the USA, Goodyear welted, and Horween leather uppers. Bonobos Plaid Wool Unconstructed Sportcoat – $224.98 ($450)Slim fit. Just quarter lined in the back. And unlike Bonobos, when these are on sale, they aren’t final sale. Hooray for free shipping and free returns. 1901 Rainier Longwing Derby – $65.90 ($110)Sole looks a little… thick? Not platform, but not svelte either. Yet sometimes that can work on a longwing. Also available in blue suede here. Hart Schaffner Marx Sheffield Classic Fit Wool & Cashmere Overcoat – $297.49 ($595)Still plenty of winter left. 90% wool and 10% cashmere here. Really liking that not quite camel, but not medium brown either shade. Nordstrom Signature Cashmere Socks – $29.70 ($49.50)If you or someone you know loves his shoe collection, then he pays attention to his feet. And nothing says appreciating feet quite like cashmere socks. Nordstrom Auburn Trim Fit Peacoat – $199.90 ($349)Wool blend here: 60% wool, 35% polyester, 5% other fibers. Claims a trim fit though, and it’s a little longer than some other peacoats so it looks like it should cover a sportcoat or suit coat tail? Nordstrom Leather Driving Gloves – $44.75 ($89.95)Great for this time of year… if you live in warmer climates. That said, drivers are great for those in-between weather days (and seasons… like Spring and Fall). Also available in black. Calibrate Wool Blend Bomber Jacket – $84.49 ($169)It’s poly first, but at least there’s a good amount of wool in the blend: 64% polyester, 33% wool, 3% other fibers. Available in either solid, or HOLY PLAID THAT’S REALLY PLAID. Cole Haan Quilted Jacket – $149.00 ($298)Yes it’s all poly, but boy does it get a lot of things right. The snaps to cinch up the fit. The elbow patches. The hand warmer pockets. The corduroy collar. That’s a lot of jacket for $150. Nordstrom The Rail Tempe Chukka – $53.96 ($89.95)What do you get when you take a $90 leather chukka and mark it down to fifty? I’m not sure. But the almost 5/5 star reviews after 17 reviews is encouraging. And hey, if they stink, you can send em’ back for free. Lamarque Diamond Quilted Leather Jacket – $418 ($625)I’m not a leather jacket guy myself, but… if I was? That’d be the jacket. That quilting. Great googly moogly. Marc New York Humboldt Quilted Jacket – $117.25 ($175)A standard quilted jacket with a surprise inside. Extra insulated thanks to a high-pile fleece liner vest that’s also detachable. Too hot one day? You can ditch it until the temps drop further. Nordstrom Cashmere Lined Perforated Deerskin Gloves – $44.75 ($89.50)More coverage than a standard driver, and these are lined in cashmere. Good Man Brand Twill Quilted Slim Fit Shirt Jacket – $136.80 ($228)Cotton here, but that texture and the snaps/pocket placement/collar all make for a really unique looking medium to light jacket. UGG Halfstein Plain Toe Waterproof Boot – $112.90 ($190)There are worse looking ways to get through the slush and snow. Surprised they’re priced this low, being that UGG seems to be something of a brand that likes to mark their stuff up. Full grain leather uppers too. John W. Nordstrom Houndstooth Wool Sport Coat – $249.49 ($499)Oooh. Hello. Burgundy. That’ll do. And from their upgraded, nicer than you’d expect line, John W. Nordstrom. Nordstrom Merino Wool Blend Thermal Henley – $44.75 ($89.50)More Nordstrom house brand goodness. 50% merino, 50% acrylic. Can’t speak for these, yet, but I’m a big fan of merino and merino blend henleys. And thus, have a couple on the way. 1901 Jackson Extra Trim Fit Wool Overcoat – $209.40 ($349)EXTRA trim fit here. So you better be real slim, or, not one to layer much. 100% wool. Herschel Supply Co. Novel Offset Denim Duffel Bag – $83.98 ($120)With that famous shoe compartment. Liking the color contrast here. Marc New York Fletcher Quilted Bomber Jacket – $105 ($175)Quilted jacket #2365 from this sale… but… this one is a bomber. Complete with bomber collar, cuffs, and hem, as well as the zippered pocket on the sleeve. L.B.M 1911 Classic Fit Cotton & Wool Sport Coat in Blue or Green – $476.98 ($795)Spendy. But worth a mention for the #menswear nerds out there, since it seems those types seem to really, really like the L.B.M. brand and what they offer. Billy Reid Eastwood Wool Blend Jacket – $176.98 ($295)Wait, it’s wool? Well, at least wool blend. 65% wool, 35% nylon. And Billy Reid makes really, really nice stuff. The Rail Edward Chelsea Boot in Chestnut or Gray – $65.98 ($110)Inexpensive. Very inexpensive. And that’s not a bad thing if you’re curious about chelseas but don’t want to drop a ton of cash on a pair for fear of them not “working.” Should go great with jeans. And they ship back for free in case they arrive and you decide they’re a no-go. The Rail Quilted Nylon Trucker Jacket – $59.40 ($99)Cheap! And the use of both vertical and horizontal stitches to make the quilted exterior is a nice call. 1901 Columbia Chukka Sneaker – $62.49 ($125)A hybrid. Not all hybrids look… natural? Some of them look kinda Frankenstein-y. Not here. And the price is solid too. John W. Nordstrom Mason Herringbone Wool & Cashmere Overcoat – $359.40 ($599)Subtle, but should stand out a bit thanks to the herringbone pattern to the fabric. 95% wool and 5% cashmere exterior. Polo RL Deerskin Gloves – $74.98 ($125)More on-sale gloves. Deerskin here. Still smart-phone touch screen compatible. Adjustable wrist strap. Lined. Made in Italy TBNY Double Monk in Leather or Suede – $196.90 ($395)Well those are awfully handsome. Perfect, timeless toe shape. Subtle cap toe. And the buckles are slightly rounded at the corners. No sharp edges there. Slim rubber sole for traction. Nordstrom Trim Fit Flat Front Stretch Wool Trousers – $77.40 ($129)Check out that burgundy option. Un-hemmed, so, you’ll need to have a tailor shorten them to your specified preferred break. Trim fit. Flat front. Nordstrom Trim Fit Flat Front Stretch Wool Pants – $49.75 ($99.50)Or… there’s these. Plaid. And noticeably less expensive. Still unfinished hem. 97% wool / 3% spandex. 1901 Renton Suede Bluchers – $69.90 ($109.95)Inexpensive suede bluchers that’ll look great with all sorts of smart-casual or business casual wear. Vince Camuto Melton Car Coat with Removable Bib – $129.90 ($198)That could be a LOT of coat for $130. And the key is that the bib is removable. I’ve never understood otherwise refined looking topcoats with a fixed, non-removable bib/fake layer. Thankfully, that’s NOT the case here. Jack Mason 40mm Racing Chrono – $164.98 ($275)Fast looks but a not super expensive price. Not from a heritage watchmaker, but a fashion brand. Yet it’s a fashion brand that can make some good looking watches if you like the busy thing. 1901 Kent Chukka Boot – $74.90 ($125)Gray! Suede! Chukkas! It’s like they’ve been reading this site (I’m guessing they haven’t, but hey, that’s cool too). 1901 Lightweight Chore Jacket – $71.40 ($119)Shades of J. Crew’s cotton chore jacket… only this one isn’t almost always perpetually sold out, AND it ships and returns for free. Good Man Brand Mix Modern Slim Fit Wool Sweater – $118.80 ($198)Another modern design made from heritage materials from Good Man Brand. All merino here. Two colorways to pick from. Rodd & Gunn Regular Fit Sport Coat – $198.98 ($398)Wool blend. But zoom in and it almost looks like a corduroy? Or maybe a knit? 42% wool, 40% polyester, 18% polyamide. Made in Italy Monte Rosso Montreux Wingtip Boot – $174.98 ($350)The not as fortunate man’s Dalton? Plus these come with traction on the sole, standard. Uppers also claim to be water resistant. Cole Haan ‘Warren’ Wingtip – $99.90 ($200)Kinda liking that “copper” leather. Looks matte and marbled. A casual wingtip for sure. Not gonna be dressed too far up, but should look pretty good with jeans and a sportcoat or OCBD/sweater combo? Billy Reid Regular Fit Mouline Cardigan – $97.50 ($195)70% cotton and 30% poly, so… luxury sweats? Is that a thing? Two colors. Reebok Revenge Plus Sneaker – $50.96 ($84.95)Shades of the Nike Killshot. Maybe. A little. More Killshot alternatives can be found here. Flynt Regular Fit Knit Wool Blend Sport Coat in Port or Blue – $318.75 ($425)Somewhat similar to BR’s outstanding Italian wool knit sportcoat. 55% wool / 45% poly here for the Flynt option. Frankly, I’d go with the BR. Cole Haan Harrison Grand Cap Toe Oxford – $129.90 ($220)Entry level dress shoes. True oxfords with a cap toe. Probably won’t last you a lifetime, but with reasonable care, should last you a while. Well reviewed. Ted Baker Berman Faux Leather Duffel Bag – $89.40 ($149)Speaking of probably not gonna last you a lifetime, but could do right by you with reasonable precautions… Sporty stripe. 19″W x 11″H x 9″D = 1,881 cubic inches. So not the biggest thing. Michael Kors Wool Blend Peacoat – $99.90 ($350)Good grief… 400 reviews, and it’s north of 4/5 stars. That’s impressive. 60% wool. Four colors to pick from including navy (which isn’t shown above). Cole Haan Jefferson Waterproof Wholecut Oxford – $129.99 ($300)Cole Haans for $300? Nah. But for $130, and they can be go-tos on crap weather days since they’re water proof? Yes please. They look a little thick in the britches, but that might come in handy when the weather is being terrible. Also available in black. Nordstrom Tech-Smart Trim Fit Stretch Check Dress Shirt – $34.75 ($69.50)Basic dress shirts that have some technology woven in for stretch and breathability. Lots of colors, but sizes are pretty scattered. Cole Haan Tyler Chukka Boot – $149.90 ($250)Yes, Cole Haans are overpriced at full retail. But this isn’t full retail. Lots of positive reviews on the Nordstrom site too. Berle Wool Flat Front Windowpane Wool Trousers in Gray or Blue – $129.98 ($215)So these are loud. Real loud. And not the slimmest cut. But if you’re a risk taker and have some meat on your bones… just keep the rest of your outfit pretty calm, right? Cole Haan Original Grand Wingtip – $74.98 ($150)Some people love these things. Some think they’re an abomination. I ain’t judging. At least, not this time. Nordstrom Signature 100% Cashmere Overcoat – $599.49 ($1199)Hey big spender. I mean, that’s a lot of cash. But that’s a lot of goat combing too. 100% cashmere and made in Italy. Well I don’t know about you dear Reader, but I’m exhausted after all that. Did we miss something? Send anything that you think belongs in our picks from this monster half-yearly sale to: [email protected] Nordstrom Half Yearly Sale Picks for Men published first on http://bit.ly/2u2EAdy via Tumblr Nordstrom Half Yearly Sale Picks for Men ![]() Merry Christmas everyone published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Merry Christmas everyone Moncler has been making puffy jackets since the 1950s and theyâve been around for a while and theyâve become quite iconic. The classic versions of the puffy down jackets retail anywhere from $1100 to $1500 which is quite an investment so reason enough to determine whether itâs worth it or not. Moncler HistoryMoncler is pronounced that way because itâs derived from the name of a town, Monestier-de-Clermont. If you want to learn how to properly pronounce other luxury brand names, please check out this video here. ![]() Originally, Moncler was established as a maker of quilted sleeping bags in 1952. Even though theyâre most well known for their puffy down jackets, they didnât invent them, that honor actually goes to Eddie Bauer who came up with the idea in 1936. Ever since its inception, Moncler produced down products but they were more utilitarian and meant for workers who were out on the mountain. Eventually, a French Mountaineer by the name of Lionel Terray approached Moncler and asked if they could make jackets for his expeditions. They accepted the challenge and from that point forward, they were the providers of exhibition gear for many mountaineering groups. ![]() For example in 1954, Moncler outfitted the first crew that successfully climbed the K2. By 1968, Moncler had become so popular and well known that they were named the official supplier of the French National Ski Team. With the spotlight on the company, Moncler decided to change their logo from the Mount Eguit to the cockerel which is still the Moncler logo today. The iconic Moncler puffy down jacket, as we know it today, came about to be in the 1980s. Young Italian men dubbed the paninari started wearing work wear such as the brightly colored puffy jackets from Moncler as well as timberland boots as part of their subculture. ![]() Moncler responded to the trend by adding a shiny finish to their jackets as well as fur trimmings. In 2003, Moncler was purchased by the Italian entrepreneur Remo Ruffini and he moved their headquarters to Milan that remains today. Under new direction, Moncler decided to focus more on the fashion side of things rather than the expedition based quality segment. Because of that, they came up with the Gamme Rouge collection. ![]() At around at the same time, Giambattista Valli started designing for Moncler. Today, Moncler is truly a fashion brand that prices their products in the luxury range. Because of that, Moncler jackets are no longer target to sporty outdoorsman or expeditioners. Instead, they show up at Fashion Week and thatâs the realm now. Interestingly, they claim that they still focus on expedition gear, for some reason though, itâs not for sale. Nevertheless, Moncler puffy down jackets have become a true status symbol from many out there and as a consequence, theyâre faked a lot. So obviously, Moncler has some history to it even though theyâre now more focused on the fashion side of things. Moncler Quality HallmarksSo letâs look at the jacket, we bought two of their more iconic styles which are short and hip length puffy with a shiny satin-like finish. One is red, the other one is blue which also happens to be their brand color. With the finish and the colors, Moncler is intentionally bold in an area where usually navy and black solid dominate the landscape. Moncler jackets are known for their down filling which is very puffy and very insulating and warm. On their website, they claim to have a superior expertise in the down realm. ![]() DIST CertifiedAll the down fitters using their jackets are DIST certified, thatâs a protocol that claims to trace traceability quality and origin of the down. Interestingly, the trade market DIST is actually owned by Moncler so itâs not an independent agency but itâs their own quality control seal, therefore, the quality claims of the down is actually certified by a subsidiary of Moncler and not by an outside third party. ![]() 710 Fill PowerThey claim to use superior downs yet they use surprisingly few numbers to back those claims up. They claim that their down cluster content is at least 90% with 10% being other feathers. Now, the higher the pure down content, the more insulating the jacket and the higher the quality the jacket will be. To measure the quality of different down jacket compositions, thereâs something called the fill power. Fill power means as much as the volume occupied by the down feathers. An object with a higher fill power takes up more space meaning more air is trapped and therefore, the jacket is more insulating. Essentially, it means that you get more warmth while maintaining the same weight. The fill power of a Moncler down jacket is 710 which means it takes up 710 cubic inches for 30 grams of down which is about 1 ounce. Regular feathers have a fill power of only 300 versus the best quality down have a fill power of 900. Like I said, using waterfowl down would even enable you to get higher fill power numbers but it is not worth it commercially. So at the end of the day, 710 is a good fill number especially if you consider that the down is supposedly plucked only from dead animals. ![]() Down ExplainedThose are bird feathers that are very small and fine and flexible and because of that, when put together, they create air chambers which insulate both ways. On the one hand, they insulate from the cold air from the outside; on the other hand, they preserve the body heat which is very favorable for animals. Normally, goose downs are the most widely known quality down feathers. There are others such as waterfowl but theyâre usually not commercially used because even better, theyâre more expensive. Also, the highest quality down feathers through geese have to be plucked from live animals. Later pluckings are better because the down feathers are even finer than the earlier ones and therefore, they insulate even more. However, plucking the down feathers from live geese means they suffer from extreme pain and stress which is just animal cruelty. If you follow our channels, you know that we always look for the utmost and quality, however, in this case, we would argue that you should protect the animals and go with down feathers that are plucked from dead geese because theyâre still very warm and very functional and you are just not treating animals in a cruel way. ![]() Nylon ShellOne of the iconic things of Moncler, itâs a very dense nylon that is extremely lightweight and only weighs in at 33 grams per square meter. Itâs also woven in a very fine way so you donât end up with feathers or down poking through the shell. This high density lacquered nylon that is shiny is something that is pretty unique to Moncler and not many other brands use it. So if you would like it, itâs a strong reason to invest in the Moncler jacket. If you look at the finishings of the jacket such as the snap buttons, the zippers, and all the metal parts, Iâm not too impressed. They seem to be made out of Zamak which is an alloy out of zinc, aluminum, magnesium, and copper. While really popular in the industry, itâs really inexpensive and solid brass is, in my opinion, a lot better. If you look at the zipper, itâs injection molded plastic and the zipper pulley is Zamak again but overall, a zipper out of the highest quality materials would be machined out of metal with metal teeth, would be a lot smoother, and would be higher in quality. ![]() Overall, I think the trimmings donât feel cheap but theyâre definitely not the highest quality, theyâre more average. I have to say though, the construction of the jacket is really neat, the seams are all straight, there are no loose threads, no down poking through, and it appears to be a quality product right out of box. It also comes with elastic inserts, cuffs that can be tightened, as well as adjusters at the bottom so you can ensure no cold wind comes in. ![]() Boxy & Simple FitIt makes you look like a Michelin Man. The sizing is quite strange, they use a numbering system and the jacket Iâm wearing here is size 5 even though that corresponds an extra-extra-large, I would say itâs more like a large to extra large in other brands. So if you want a Moncler jacket, size up! Even though the size is larger in their lineup, the sleeves are quite short which is something I donât like because thatâs where you end up with a cold air. ![]() Barcode On The Inside JacketBecause Moncler jackets are so expensive, theyâre faked all over the place and in order to verify that you have a genuine product, Moncler jackets have a barcode on the inside jacket. You can simply scan it with a scanner app which gets you to a website and once you sign up, itâll tell you what name the jacket should be and what style and if itâs a different style, you know it was copied and itâs a fake or if the number is wrong, it will just tell you to get in touch with support and you know whatâs wrong or a fake, as well. LightweightIn terms of weight, it doesnât tell you exactly how heavy it is but our jackets are really lightweight, just take a look. So if theyâre lightweight, do they keep you warm? Yes, absolutely. As we learned before, with a fill power where air is trapped, it definitely keeps you warm. ![]() Maintenance & CareI havenât washed mine yet but the instructions seem pretty clear, itâs made to be washed but I could see how eventually, the very thin nylon shell will suffer and get destroyed simply because itâs nylon, itâs not kevlar or something like that and itâs just so thin. Is a Moncler Puffy Down Jacket Worth It?Well, I think undeniably for a puffy down jacket, they have very special features such as a shiny finish, they have a good fill power, use quality down, and you donât end up with a cheap product. The finishes are nice, the trimmings are just average but personally, my big issue is the value. Youâre paying a lot of money for something that you can get for less from other companies, at least in terms of functionality. If you buy a Moncler jacket, you definitely pay more for the brand. Alternative OptionsFor example, North Face has a jacket with a 700 fill power and a nylon shell that is slightly heavier, 54 grams a square meter versus 33 grams of Moncler but it only retails for 249. On the other hand, Patagoniaâs Fitz Rroy jacket has an 800 fill power and a lifetime guarantee and cost about $450. So is it worth it if you buy primarily for the performance? I would say no, why? You can find many other brands with either the same or a higher fill power for a lower cost and their down is certified by third parties, not by themselves so you can trust a little more into what youâre getting. On the other hand, if you buy primarily for the status, the style, the loud colors, and the shiny finish, and you like to be fashion-forward and you donât mind a price tag, then yes, by all means, invest in the Moncler jacket. Like I said, other brands rarely do that satin finish if thatâs what you like, go for it. My Personal Take On Moncler JacketsItâs not worth it because I simply donât see the value. Iâm also not a big fan of the shiny finish and at the end of the day, it still makes me look like a Michelin Man which is not very flattering at all. If you want to be stylish, instead invest in an overcoat for about the same price, you can almost go custom, you can get something thatâs really warm and looks a lot better than a Moncler jacket does. Whatâs your take on Moncler Jackets? Feel free to drop a comment below! Is It Worth It: Moncler Jackets published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Is It Worth It: Moncler Jackets |
FashionPassion
I lived my life in Europe and now a global citizen in fashion. I have attended the American University in Texas and hold master degree in Media & Communications. I have also spent 4 years of formal training in clothing and fashion. I love travelling around the world and being in different artistic environments has helped me discover more and more about my passions which is fashion. Personal Links |