What are you going to wear? Or in this instance, what is HE going wear? St. Nick has a huge job ahead of him. Lots of miles to cover, lots of soot filled chimneys to get down, lots of cookie crumbs & milk spills to avoid. It’s a dirty job, but that doesn’t mean Santa can’t look sharp while doing it. Here’s what he might wear while putting another 25k-50k miles on the sleigh. (Top Photo Credit) The Sweater: Suitsupply Wool/Cashmere Turtleneck – $169. A splurge, but… c’mon. He’s gotta be comfortable and look great on the big night. Great for keeping the arctic blast off his neck. 70 % wool and 30% cashmere. Mrs. Claus has been experimenting with paleo eating habits this year, and in the process St. Nick has shed a little weight around the middle thanks to cutting out most carbs. Thus, a trimmer fitting sweater from Suitsupply this time around. Want something cheaper? Try this from Orvis or this from Woolovers. The Pants: BR x Kevin Love Soft Stretch Athletic Tapered Chino – $43.99 ($98). Banana Republic’s collaboration with Kevin Love has produced some really, really nice stuff. And now that these are on sale and an additional half off? They’re at a GAP level price point. The Watch: Citizen Nighthawk – $189.98. With all those tight brick chimneys, this isn’t the night to break out the rose gold Rolex that Mrs. Claus gave him for a 1500th anniversary present. Yes, the Elves in R&D finally got around to updating the software on the sled, so he can now keep track of all the time zones and his sleigh-to-tree-to-sleigh split times with the on-board computer, but just in case they have a power failure he favors an aviation style watch. You never know when you’re gonna need a slide rule. It came in super handy that one year when the alternator failed over Prague. The Belt: Weifert Stretch Woven Elastic Belt – $11.58 The Coat: Custom Gore-Tex Cashmere-Lined Topcoat w/ Horween Leather Belt. One of a kind. Made by the Mrs. w/ help from Elf Q Branch. Not pictured: Matching hat with drop down night vision equipped face shield, as well as a wireless blue tooth ear piece connected to NORAD via the on-sleigh wi-fi hotspot. The Base Layer: L.L. Bean Made in Canada Cotton/Wool Union Suit – $69.00. Santa’s a classics guy, so although the new-fangled neoprene base layers may wick moisture better, he’s still going with a traditional union suit. At least it does have a layer of wool in there, so that’ll function a bit better than the super old-school all cotton long johns. The Socks: Wigwam Pikes Pro Lightweight Outdoor Crew Socks in Charcoal – $17. Nylon/Merino blend with enough cushioning and blister prevention properties to keep his feet happy while circumnavigating the globe. The Boots: Allen Edmonds Longbranch in Black – $395. With red laces, of course. Port Washington isn’t that far from his place, so Santa’s been frequenting Allen Edmonds for years. The Longbranch is like an even tougher version of the Dalton. Wingtip details, textured leather, and a lug sole. Perfect for Christmas Eve, with all of those slippery rooftops and what not. The Air Freshener: Car Freshener Royal Pine – $0.77 The Nice/Naughty List + Pen: Waterproof Field Notes – $12.95 The Gloves: Ralph Lauren Quilted Gloves in Black – $78. Warm, but also offers the dexterity and durability to handle the reins with authority. Touch screen compatible too, so he can easily swipe through his various routes for the evening. The Goggles: Mark 4 Split Lens Flight Goggles – $88. Sheepskin face cushion. Prescription progressive lenses by the Reykjavik Costco Optical Department. After market heads up display via DARPA. The Cap/Crash Helmet: Shearling Sheepskin Leather Aviator Cap – $49.99. Santa has taken some spills on rooftops over the millennia, so to stay compliant with concussion protocol, Papa Elf has recently added this to St. Nick’s kit. Sheepskin base keeps him warm, while the safety team has added aftermarket padding based on the crystalline atomic structure of marshmallow fluff. Style Scenario: Santa on Christmas Eve published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Style Scenario: Santa on Christmas Eve
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![]() The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest canvas, both making them more suitable for the warmth of southern Italy. But the style has also become popular globally in recent years, as dress codes have relaxed and men seek a bespoke jacket that is casual enough to wear with chinos, even jeans. It’s fair to say that this characterisation of the style applies to most Neapolitan tailors. However, there is also more local variation than many realise, and in the next five pieces in this series we will illustrate and analyse this. We start with Sartoria Solito, which offers what many will think of as the standard, modern Neapolitan jacket. House: Sartoria Solito Address: Via Toledo 256, Naples Site: www.sartoriasolito.it Cutter: Luigi Solito Price (at time of writing): €2400 (incl VAT) Suit starting price: €2800 (incl VAT) This summer jacket was cut for me by Luigi Solito in 2017. It was my fourth jacket from Solito, with the first being cut by Luigi’s father Gennaro, and occasional involvement from Gennaro in subsequent commissions. It is a wool/silk/linen mix, which is my favourite material for casual summer jackets. The wool gives the jacket body and crease resistance, while the silk and linen keep it light and breathable. The colour and pattern, too, have made this jacket a favourite because they combine to make something very versatile. The brown can go with almost any colour of trouser, from cream to green to charcoal, while the muted check is helpful to differentiate top and bottom halves, without being too loud or showy. Going back to the style, the most important things that make this a casual jacket, and therefore most suited to jeans or chinos, are the small, natural shoulder and the short, open bottom half. So the shoulder is relatively narrow, 5¾ inches along the shoulder seam; it is only lightly padded, which keeps it close to my actual shoulder; and it then runs naturally down into the upper arm, without the interruption of any roping in the sleevehead. The result is that the jacket looks like it’s following the lines of the body rather than imposing anything on it, and is almost more like a sweater than a jacket in this respect. In the bottom half, the jacket is a little shorter than most (30½ inches) and the line below the fastened waist button is quite curved. If you follow that line from the waist button downwards, it is relatively straight at the start (straighter than someone like Liverano for instance) but then curves away sharply at the bottom. Jackets that are shorter, rounded and more open like this will feel more casual. However, this can be taken too far. Many younger Neapolitan tailors produce jackets with stunted bottom halves and very high waists, which are not flattering at all. Indeed, Luigi naturally cuts a slightly shorter jacket, but I wanted it at this length. So always be aware of the risk here. The seat of the trousers should always be covered – as it is, just about, here. What else makes this a typical modern Neapolitan jacket? Well, the lapel is quite wide (4 inches), which enhances the rounded shape of that front edge. And other things are rounded too, including the shape of the patch pockets and the ‘barchetta’ or ‘little boat’ shape of the breast pocket. The gorge (the notch shape where the lapel and collar meet) is also quite high – 3¼ inches from the shoulder seam. This is a modern trend and something I might ideally have differently on this jacket. Closer to 4 inches might be better. The sleeve is also tapered sharply towards the cuff. Despite starting at a fairly standard width at the top, it narrows to the point where a double-cuffed shirt would not be able to fit in the opening. Overly narrow sleeves is also a trait of some younger Neapolitan tailors, and is worth avoiding. Tight sleeves only make it look as if your jacket doesn’t fit. They don’t make you look more muscly. There is a slight angle to the balance of this jacket, with the front a little longer than the back. But this is not a feature of Neapolitan jackets. Many English do it too, as you can see in other posts in this series, such as my linen Anderson & Sheppard. It’s just often more noticeable with Neapolitans because the jackets are shorter. Elsewhere, the chest of this jacket is cut quite close with no drape; the back is relatively suppressed through the waist; and the breast pocket is a touch higher than other tailors, reflecting the shorter length and higher gorge. All are typical of this general Neapolitan style. We will see in future editions of this series how an older generation of Neapolitan tailors cut things rather bigger, though still soft. This is closer to the English tailors that inspired them in terms of cut, therefore, just not in structure. Meanwhile, in the image above you can see that natural line to the shoulder of this Solito, as well as the Everyday Denim shirt and green-cotton handkerchief (from Anderson & Sheppard) it is worn with. The trousers in a stiff cream cotton were not made by Solito, but by fellow Neapolitan Dalcuore. Their narrowness and deep 5cm cuffs are typical of most Neapolitans too, however. The shoes are from Edward Green, a cap-toe oxford style they call Canterbury, made in dark-brown suede. Style breakdown:
Photography: Jamie Ferguson Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown When you receive an invitation nowadays, it may add a dress code such as Cocktail Attire, Black Tie Optional, Semi-Formal Attire or Formal Attire, but what exactly does that mean? Back in the day, things were simpler: the dress code was either Black Tie for less formal evening occasions or White Tie for more formal ones. Womenâs dresses were chosen accordingly. Today, for many men the tuxedo is the most formal garment they will ever wear, and it is often rented. In the following, I want to explain what Cocktail Attire For Men is all about and what options you have for weddings, parties or events when you receive an invitation that asks for it. Video â Cocktail Attire For MenWant to look the part at the next cocktail party? Get our cocktail attire pocket guide for men here. ![]() The Basics of the Cocktail Attire Dress Code![]() How Formal is Cocktail Attire and When Should You Wear It?On the scale of dress codes, cocktail attire is the middle, a step up from business casual but less formal than black tie. It is considered on par with business attire, so it is easy to use an outfit you would wear to your office or an interview to create a great cocktail attire ensemble. This dress code is most commonly found on invitations for parties, weddings, and professional events, which are formal events. ![]() Even though times have changed and style is becoming ever more casual, if a dress code is called for, you should do your best to stick with it because dressing appropriately is a sign of respect for the host and the event. Cocktail attire is likely to be one of the more frequent dress codes most men encounter because it falls in the middle of casual and formal, but it is also one of the most convenient because it is made up of garments and accessories that most men likely already own. ![]() Cocktail attire is also versatile in that when in a pinch, you can wear a cocktail attire with a dark suit instead of a tuxedo when black tie is called for as the dress code. Itâs also appropriate for funerals and other solemn occasions when formality is required. In this case, a solid dark navy or charcoal suit can be worn if you donât own a black one, and your accessories should be muted, such as a black grenadine tie, black leather oxford dress shoes, and a solid white shirt. Even if you wear smart casual or jeans on a day to day basis, it pays to have at least one cocktail attire outfit ready in your closet for short notice events. What is Semi Formal and Formal Attire for Men?![]() If your invitation states a semi-formal or formal attire, these are vague and challenging dress codes to deal with today because they mean different things to different people. In the past, formal attire was a tuxedo, while semi-formal would be like cocktail attire. These days the ambiguity of these dress codes can make them frustrating for guests. ![]() If the Invitation Asks for Cocktail Attire, Men Should Wear:
![]() Cocktail Attire Donâts:
Cocktail Attire For Men at a Wedding![]() Even though the above guidelines for cocktail attire may seem a bit subdued, they will be appropriate for the majority of weddings. The result of the cocktail attire dress code is that you will be elegantly and respectfully attired for the occasion without being flashy or otherwise drawing attention away from the focus of the day â the bride and groom. Unless you have information suggesting otherwise, such as a beach or barn location, you canât go wrong with traditional cocktail attire at a wedding. If the bridegroom is a flamboyant artist or someone who wears shorts and t-shirt, no matter what, try to adjust your outfit so you will not be completely out of place: For an artist wedding, go with more colorful accessories and for a completely informal wedding, skip the tie and just wear a combination with a dark jacket and lighter colored slacks â again, it is their day so you should try not to catch much attention with your outfit. What Should Men Wear to a Cocktail Party?![]() Interestingly, most women understand the attire required for such an event due to the aptly named cocktail dress (often black), whereas it is not as clear for men what attire they should wear to a cocktail party. Unfortuntanely, the cocktail party and cocktail attire do not go hand in hand, and you will need to make a judgement about the nature of the event before you decide what to wear. If the event suggests a dress code, then go with it. If not, consider that cocktail parties are supposed to be relaxed occasions, and although not wrong per se, a classic dark suit such as navy or charcoal is probably a tad too formal. During the winter, you can wear flannel, with patterns, and maybe a bow tie. Be more daring than with your business wardrobe and pay attention to accessories such as cuff links, tie bars, pocket squares, boutonnieres⦠but donât overdo it and only use two accents at the most.
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Madder Silk Bow Tie in Purple with Paisley
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Cornflower Boutonniere
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White Linen Pocket Square
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Sunglasses are a must for an event outside. Click to find out what shape suits you best. During the warmer months of the year, you can go with lighter colors, such as the light blue linen sport coat below.
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A knit tie in a two tone color is perfect because it is casual yet unusual. Click to learn more about this tie.
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A lapel flower boutonniere makes your outfit special & fun. For a selection of boutonnieres, click here. Traditional Cocktail Attire in the 1930sFashion illustrations are a window into a bygone era when every man seemed to be dressed to the nines. The following fashion illustration is from 1936, the golden age of menâs classic style, and shows us a nice mix of cocktail attire for men that would still work today. This illustration clearly shows the evolution of womenâs dress since the 30âs, since these women are wearing hats and suits that were then considered everyday attire rather than business wear. If the party is during the day or in the afternoon, you can add more color and patterns to your outfit, although the basics mentioned in the list above apply here as well. In the evening, you can wear darker suits, fewer patterns, and more muted colors. The Stroller With Striped Trousers for Formal Day EventLetâs start on the very left with the gentleman in the stroller. He leans by the fireplace, talking to the lady in red. Of course, this is an illustration, but note how neatly his coat fits around the collar, shoulders and cuffs. There are neither gaps nor excess shirt cuff fabric to be seen. His stroller jacket is the typical single-breasted, peaked lapel style with two buttons and jetted pockets in a charcoal gray (this jacket is also found in black). Instead of a pocket square, he opted for a red carnation that goes well with his buff waistcoat, white shirt, and light blue tie. His trousers are striped but instead of the more common cashmere stripe, a special stripe for morning wear that does not really have anything to do with cashmere, he chose a wide stripe in black and white. Even though his shoes arenât visible, they are probably black oxfords to match the colors in his outfit and the formality of this look. This cocktail outfit used to be particularly popular for wear on Sunday afternoons and was often seen at the smartest cocktail bars. Today, the stroller is definitely the most formal of all the cocktail suits yet different than another flannel blazer combination or a navy suit. Windowpane Overplaid Sharkskin Suit â Great For Most Cocktail PartiesOne of the highlights in this illustration is certainly the suit in the middle, featuring a large rust brown subdued windowpane overplaid on a grey sharkskin suit. Worn as a 3-piece suit with an ivory colored shirt and navy-red club tie, the proportions of this suit are very moderate. It has a normal lapel width and gorge, round quarters and a fairly long jacket. In my opinion, windowpane suits are one of the most underrated outfits in menswear and hence, they are an ideal chance for you to differentiate yourself without being overly loud. As a general rule, you should keep in mind that the more patterns and colors (other than navy and grey) you have in your outfit, the less formal it will be. All of the suits shown here would be appropriate attire for 95% of cocktail parties.
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Blue Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Silk Fort Belvedere
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Orange Golden Fritillaria Silk Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere
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Edelweiss Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere Wide Stripe Worsted Flannel Suit â An Option for Evening EventsOn the very right, we have a gentleman in a suit with yet another large pattern: the wide-spaced colored stripe. The red stripes inspired the rest of his dress, choosing a red boutonniere and Bordeaux tie. This three-piece flannel suit with stripes benefits from the peaked lapels, which provide a little more formality. If the lady in blue were to step aside, you would see that the trousers of this suit are without cuffs, which raises the formality bar by another notch. In combination with a white crisp shirt collar, this outfit would be almost bank appropriate, expect for the wide colored stripes. Nevertheless, I think it is a fantastic stripe and hence I wanted to provide you with a picture of an authentic cloth sample. As you can see, the stripe is more subdued than in the illustration, which makes it even more appropriate for a cocktail suit that is different yet elegant. ConclusionWhen cocktail attire is called for as the dress code at your next event, now you know what you need to wear to look and feel great. At a wedding, try to be properly dressed without being too flashy and always keep the bride and groom in mind. For cocktail parties and receptions, leave your business navies and grays in the closet and add a splash of color. If you have a vest â even a contrasting one â wear it if it pairs well with the suit. I hope I provided you with some food for thought for cocktail attire for your next reception â have fun and enjoy company and drinks! Cocktail Attire For Men â Dress Code Guide For Weddings, Parties & Events published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Cocktail Attire For Men â Dress Code Guide For Weddings, Parties & Events It’s Friday. Looking for something to switch up your weekend, or to give you an excuse to relax a little? That’s what the Weekend Reset is for. Each week contributor Tim Johnstone pulls together five things to get your weekend started. Could be something to read or watch, something to eat or listen to, or even something to do. Enjoy the weekend fellas. WRAP: Because sometimes wrapping is a pain in the jingle bells. This entire post is handy for those who find wrapping presents a challenge. From odd-sized packages to bottles of wine (because gift bags are soooo 1995) and other wrapping tips, this is pretty handy right about now. There are several videos included in the post besides the one above. A nicely wrapped gift stands out from the rest and is especially impressive coming from a guy. Obligatory. LISTEN/READ: Chares Barkley made me cry. Now it’s your turn. Joe sent this my way and I’m thankful he did. There are lots of things one can say about Charles, but as Joe pointed out, he lives his life so honestly. This is quite the story. EAT: A hearty and satisfying one-pot meal for Christmas dinner.Thanks for the great feedback about these one-pot recipes. Dappered reader Travis inspired this week’s recipe. This slow-roasted leg of lamb dish borders on comfort food with the addition of scalloped potatoes. It makes for an impressive winter meal. Yes, the recipe is Aussie so you’ll need to convert from metric (hello search engine of choice). Aside from that, it is not terribly complicated and should be worth the attention. For more one-pot main dishes for the holidays, check out this post. GOALS: This woman is living her best life. The ten year old Tim would have lost his mind if this had happened to him. The old-as-the-hills Tim can appreciate the beauty of this so much more. What an adventure. Such beauty. WATCH: Speaking of ten-year old Tim… This isn’t one of the best know Rankin/Bass holiday specials but it is a cult classic for sure. Come for Snowmeiser and Heatmeiser, stay for Mrs. Claus and the rest of Southtown USA. Tim Johnstone is Dappered’s music correspondent as well as our resident gatherer of all things interwebs related. He’s currently chasing his spirit animal. Also, nope. The Weekend Reset: Merry Christmas fellas. published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr The Weekend Reset: Merry Christmas fellas. Spier & Mackay Goodyear Welted Shoes Discount Todd Snyder Timex & More The Thurs. Mens Sales Handful12/20/2018 Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. Brooks Brothers: Extra 25% off Clearance
Brooks Brothers isn’t cheap. Even when stuff hits their sale section. But an extra 25% off AND you can stack their free $25 e-gift card with the purchase of a $150 e-gift card? Excellent. Note that all prices above reflect using a free $25 gift card where applicable (if the 25% off sale price still lands the item above $150). In regards to the gray, knit wool/cotton sportcoat in the lower right… I don’t know what the one reviewer is talking about. I own that sportcoat. It’s a little trimmer, but a 41R fits me great (and I usually wear a 41R in their regent fit.) It MIGHT be a little slimmer in the arms, but it is NOT two sizes too small. Maybe he got something that was mis-labeled. Anyway, really nice sportcoat. Massdrop: Oris Big Crown Pointer Day Auto – $579.99 FINAL ($1700)Not for everyone, but that price is gonna be tough (if not impossible to come even close to) to beat outside of Massdrop. 44mm in diameter, so, not small. Seashell grooved bezel. Aviation inspired looks for sure, and you also get a day of the week function, via a pointer that rotates around the outside of the dial. Swiss Made. Estimated ship date is January 8th. Big thanks to Ryan P. for the tip! Spier & Mackay: Spend $100, save 10%, Spend $200 save 15%, Spend $300 save 20%
Tiered savings that require no code. Sizes and fits are scattered about depending on what you’re after. Nice to see that their shoes are getting this cut as well. Head here for a full review of those. Todd Snyder: 30% off Select w/ HOLIDAYBONUS
30% off is a pretty hefty discount from Todd Snyder. So that’s greatly appreciated. But it’s still Todd Snyder. Not Target (even though both Target and Todd Snyder sell Timex… imagine that). Nordstrom: Their Half Yearly Sale is coming 12/26!
Yes, we will have full picks from Nordstrom’s half-yearly sale bright and early on Boxing Day. For now, here’s a preview with some of the best that’s kicking about in their oddly stacked sale section. Maybe it’s a slow roll out? As always, everything ships and returns for free. Also worth a mention:
Spier & Mackay Goodyear Welted Shoes Discount, Todd Snyder Timex, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Spier & Mackay Goodyear Welted Shoes Discount, Todd Snyder Timex, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful Korchmar Twain Leather Weekender – $530 ($605)About the author: Dave I. has been a Dappered reader for several years. His interest in fashion started with shoes and expanded to encompass watches, suits, and general men’s style. When not thinking about his next purchase he can be found enjoying a pint of locally brewed craft beer. The search for the perfect weekender bag is a bit like looking for the perfect pair of shoes. Everyone has their own opinion on what constitutes said item, everyone has their own requirements for said item, and finding said item can be at times extremely challenging. This is the situation I found myself in when looking for a weekender bag. With my requirements set, it was a matter of trolling the interwebs until I found exactly what I was looking for. The BagEnter the Korchmar Twain Leather Weekender. With Dimensions of 22″ x 10″ x 14″ this Made in the USA bag is perfect for an airplane carry-on or for throwing in the trunk of a car for a quick weekend getaway. The interior of bag is lined with signature 6.4 oz yarn dyed twill and contains three interior pockets, handy for stuffing charging cables, sunglasses, travel guides, or anything that might get lost at the bottom of a travel bag. The exterior is made of full grain American leather finished with natural oils and waxes, and complimented with brass clamp down ends to allow for expansion and increased interior capacity. Overall the bag looks and feels good. However, with a retail price of $605.00 USD this is definitely on the spendy side. While TravelingI recently had the opportunity to take the bag on a five day business trip. Granted five days is a little longer than a weekend, but the Twain proved to be the perfect bag for the job as I needed a bag to fit in the airline overhead bin since I did not want to check any bags. For the trip I took with me two pairs of shoes, two pairs of pants, a set of clothes for the gym, three business shirts, toiletries, underwear and socks. The Twain managed to pack all of it efficiently and with style. The Twain fit perfectly in the overhead compartment of both flights. On the flight out, overhead compartment space was at a premium as the overhead bins were not very deep. The Twain fit snugly in the overhead bin length wise, with not much room to spare. The return flight had a more traditional overhead bin, with the Twain fitting in width wise and having room to spare. Only IssuesThere are only two issues with the bag – beside the price – and the gripes are minor.
Final ThoughtsHaving successfully completed one trip with the Twain, I can easily see more trips where the bag will prove its worth. At $605.00 USD this bag is not for everyone. However both when checking in to the hotel, and when getting dropped off at the airport, the porters handling the bag commented on how nice it was. Now this may be because they were looking for a tip. Or it could be because they genuinely felt it was a nice bag. Personally, I prefer to think it was the latter. Editors Note: At post time, an alternate version, the “Lux Twain”, made from full grain American aniline leather, is costlier at retail ($645) yet is marked down to $495. That’s less that the regular Twain version reviewed in this post. As far as we can tell, the only difference is that the Lux version is aniline leather, whereas the non-Lux version is not. Looks like the sale is set to expire tomorrow, 12/20/18. In Review – The Made in the USA Korchmar Twain Leather Weekender published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr In Review – The Made in the USA Korchmar Twain Leather Weekender “There is a Rum for everyone, but they don’t know it……yet” -Erik Voskamp When you think of rum, you probably think of Sailor Jerry or Bacardi. Tropical cocktails in tall glasses with umbrellas and drunk pirates – the usual, right? While rum is a staple for beachcombers and pirates alike, its history and versatility make it so much more than just a bottle of rum (yo ho ho). So, things you may already know – rum is made from sugarcane juice or molasses. Sugar is left to ferment and then distilled. Aged rum is aged in bourbon barrels, giving it the golden or brown color, although sometimes caramel color is used. There are a ton of different kinds of rum, and with so many options, there really is a rum for everyone. To get you through the history of rum, let’s start at the beginning. The HistorySugar cane was a part of the spice trade, bringing it back to colonies. Tobacco couldn’t grow, so they ended up planting sugar cane. Columbus introduced sugarcane to the new world (whether he was the first, we won’t ever know… the guy was kind of sketchy). Anyways, it was introduced to the new world and that made rum the first spirit. The English navy was huge on rum, because they could mix it with lime and not get scurvy. Sailors were given a ration of rum to keep them warm, happy, and healthy on a long boat ride. Not only does rum help with scurvy (okay, that’d be the limes, but whatever) it’s also been said to increase good cholesterol, prevent heart attacks and heart disease, make your bones strong, help fight the common cold, and apparently strengthen your hair. But let’s be honest, those were probably all tricks to get the sailors to ingest their limes. Editors note: Whether these health claims are true or not, when it comes to booze, moderation is key. Using alcohol medicinally is far different than getting hammered off rum and cokes. If you are reading this and thinking god I hate rum … please do these things for me:
Rums By TypeIf you look at the types of rum in your liquor store, you’ll probably find three main types; white, dark, and spiced. A majority of it is made in the Caribbean or Latin America, but there are no specific rules about where it has to be made like bourbon or scotch (other than Rhum Agricole that needs to be made in French territories, and Cachaca, which is required to be produced in Brazil). Depending on the region, there are alcohol percentage requirements or stipulations on the methods in production. Did you know that when labeling the ages on rums, the rules differ? With Jamaican rum, the age on the label is gauged by the youngest in the blend. If it says 5, that means that it could be older, but the youngest in the blend is 5 years. With Guatemalan rum, the age is gauged by the oldest rum in the blend. You could have a bottle that says 23, but some rum mixed in could be younger (for example, Ron Zacapa 23). White rum is aged for a short amount of time if at all, typically in steel tanks then clarified in a way similar to the process used with vodka using charcoal. It lends itself to a lighter flavor, typically more tropical and a little more citrusy, while darker rums lean into a warm spiciness, full of caramel and stone fruit. When choosing a white rum, I like to pick something that is full-bodied and delicious in cocktails without breaking the bank. Some good options are Cruzan, Mount Gay, Plantation, or El Dorado. Gold rum is going to be a little softer, with a strong alcohol front and a spicier end. Probably best used in a punch, it adds just a little more depth than a white rum. I’d recommend Appleton Estate, El Dorado 5yr, or Gosling’s. Dark rum is where I found an unexpected love. I had been burned by the younger years of drinking Sailor Jerry and coke, and regrettably having cream soda and rum as one of my staples in my early drinking days. (Easily the grossest thing, right?) The first time I fell in love with rum was with the likes of Ron Zacapa 23, and Kirk & Sweeney. These two are so tasty with just a little ice, in an Old Fashioned, or in another boozy cocktail. (No juice or soda here, please.) Spiced rum is similar to dark, best sipped over ice. Bumbu is my pick for a spiced. RecipesDaiquiri
Combine all ingredients in a shaker. Add ice, and shake. Double strain into a coupe and enjoy! To mix things up, you can add muddled fresh fruit, but the classic is hard to beat. Caparinia
Muddle limes and sugar in a double old fashioned glass. Add Cachaca, and stir. New Trick
Combine all ingredients in a shaker, add ice and shake. Double strain into a coupe. I’ve also published a few rum drink recipes on this site in the past: Common Enemy and Little Prince. If you’re looking for something specifically holiday themed, how about an eggnog inspired by the cocktail our very first president used to serve? So, what have we learned? Rum will help you keep your heart and bones healthy, while also fighting off illness and the ever present yellow fever! Not to mention, you can utilize it to explore the tropical side of your personality or your pirate side.
The Drink: Rum published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr The Drink: Rum Websites including The Gentleman’s Gazette possess an encyclopedic amount of content on how to dress well, while thousands of images of iGents, dandies and influencers dance across Instagram feeds every day. Faced with all the content online, how do you know what suits you? Those who are new to the game of classic men’s style can quickly become overwhelmed when trying to determine what they might like to wear. Even men who have been into classic style for years can fall into a rut. So, how do you go about discovering your personal style in the face of all the advice and information out there? Here are our top 10 tips. ![]() Not everybody likes the idea of yellow pants, but they perfectly suit Sven Raphael Schneider’s style 1. Put Your Style into WordsIf you’re reading this article, it’s established that you like to dress in a certain way, so you already have some sense of what you like and don’t like. Take out your favorite fountain pen and try writing it on paper (or just use your computer). Describe your style in a sentence or even a few words:
2. Gather Inspiring ImagesTo help you describe your style, you can save images of styles, outfits, and pieces that you like. Pinterest is one of the largest social media sites in the world, behind only Facebook, Twitter, and LinkedIn and is the easiest way to do thisLinkedIn and is the easiest way to do this. A set of Pinterest boards used to collect classic menswear images. Although it has a reputation for photos of craft projects and recipes, it is an easy way to capture and store images that you like related to classic men’s style. If you have the Pinterest app on your phone, you can grab any image from any site and put it in your digital scrapbook or board. Looking at your pins will then not only help you remember clothes you want to buy but, viewed collectively, will give you a holistic sense of what your style is like. Of course, as you gather images, you may do so from other people’s Pinterest boards, which brings us to item 3. 3. Find Style Role Models (Plural) to FollowAs you go through social media, you’ll encounter numerous well-dressed gents whether on the number one source of online style inspiration–Instagram–on Tumblr microblogs or Pinterest boards. It’s important to realize though that even though you may like the personal style of someone with 15,000 Instagram followers, what he wears may not necessarily work on you. The same goes for well-dressed men outside of social media whether Cary Grant to David Beckham or Idris Elba. You may be older or younger and have a different body type or skin tone, to name just a few things that can influence what looks best on a specific individual. However, with so many people posting to social media, odds are you will find somebody on Instagram with a body type or general appearance similar to yours. Everyone’s style is really an amalgam of their influences, from family members to friends to celebrities and random strangers online. Along the same lines, the best approach with style icons is to take note of specific things you like from different people. It’s important not to imitate just one person because you risk coming across as a mere copy. If you wear your watch over your sleeve cuffs, it’s obvious you are just copying Agnelli. You can admire the way Sven Raphael Schneider wears accessories like cufflinks, boutonnieres and pocket squares while also liking the contemporary urban edge of Dan Trepanier. You can love how Mark Cho effortlessly combines colors but realize the fuller cuts of his jackets is not for you. Pick and choose from the smorgasbord of influences with the understanding that you don’t need to be loyal to any one style guru. 4. Be True to YourselfEven when you follow multiple influences, aim to be authentic. Do what’s true to you, not what’s popular. There are popular sprezzaturastyle choices seen everywhere online like keeping your button-down shirt collar unbuttoned or wearing the back blade of your necktie longer than the front and below your waistline. These are trendy, fashionable approaches that are more about uniformity than originality. It can be tempting to buy tight suits, wear a suit jacket with sweatpants, or have your pants hemmed above your ankles because “everyone” is doing it in Suitsupply ads or photos from Pitti Uomo (and getting 2000 “likes”). ![]() Sven Raphael Schneider only wears pleated pants, because they are his style, not because they are popular (which they aren’t!) Unless this really makes you happy and is how you see your personal style, be cautious of following the crowd. The key is to be comfortable–both physically in the clothes you choose and the way you look. Dress for yourself, not for others. 5. Don’t Be Afraid to ExperimentTo get to your personal style, there’s really no substitute for hands-on experimentation. If you see someone who wears an olive green linen jacket, you may want to try it yourself. You can look at pictures all you want, but you won’t know whether you like pleated pants until you put them on. Though in theory, your rounded face shape would look better with a point collar shirt, you won’t know for sure until you wear one and compare it with a spread collar. ![]() Try different collars in different formalities to see what suits you I tried point collars, cutaways, spreads, long points and button downs for shirt collars before settling on which I liked best. The first few years of my interest in menswear, I bought almost the full range of colors in sport coats, but since then I’ve boiled my favorites down to blues, browns, and beiges. ![]() Try experimenting, such as wearing wristbands or splitting up a suit If possible, you can try things in boutiques and stores to see how you look at them. Alternatively, for pieces you aren’t too sure of, you can buy thrift or used. Yes, you will make mistakes and buy something experimental that you won’t like, but that’s what return policies are for. If it takes you longer to figure out something is not for you, there’s always reseller markets like eBay or Grailed. Even if you sell at a loss, try not to look at it as wasted money. Instead, think of the journey as part of the reward. It’s like ordering a new kind of sushi or visiting a city you’ve never been to before. You’re in it for the experience, and there should be no regrets. It’s all part of the learning process. 6. Understand Your Physical CharacteristicsOne the reason we’re not into trends is that they rarely suit everyone. The skinny fit of suits today, for example, only works well for certain body types. If you want to capture your “own” style, it’s better to work with what you have rather than trying to conform to trends. Start by considering your body – your physique, your age, and your skin tone, for instance. ![]() Part of your style is finding the right colors for your skintone If you have pale skin, a dark navy shirt will wash you out. If you have brown skin, you can pull off more vibrant or hotter colors. If you’re over fifty, maybe slim fit trousers and a loafer without socks wouldn’t look best on you. A mistake is trying to impose a style on yourself that doesn’t work for you just because you saw someone else do it online. The desire to wear anything you want is strong but not always possible. It’s a sign of stylistic maturity to realize that just because you admire how someone wore an item, it doesn’t mean you can or should wear it yourself. 7. Understand Your EnvironmentAs you form your style, realize that it will be influenced by where you are situated. The way men dress on the internet often has very little to do with real life. What someone wears at Pitti Uomo or to sell a product is designed first to get attention in a medium full of so many competing images. Something may be photographed such a way to make it desirable, but ask yourself whether your personal environment would suit the style. If you live in Manhattan, you may be able to wear suits most of the time if you want to, but if you’re in rural Kentucky, this stylistic choice will make you stick out like a sore thumb. If you’re in Italy, you can wear bright, fitted jackets that are at home there, but in London, they’ll look out of place. Realistically, part of your personal style–what you wear–is dictated by your environment. ![]() Knit ties might be part of your signature look This can be as basic as not wearing an elaborate pocket square because you are dressing for a conservative workplace or wearing sports coats and knit ties instead of suits and printed silk ties because you are never in a formal setting. This may seem like it’s forcing you to compromise, but unless you want to march entirely to the beat of your own drum, you will have to fit your style to your milieu. Even within these limitations, you’ll still have a lot of possibilities. 8. Realize That You Can Have Multiple Styles![]() Many people are surprised to find that Sven Raphael Schneider’s summer uniform is a polo with shorts and boat shoes A further consolation is that you’re never really bound to a single authoritative “look”; the reality is that you’ll have multiple styles, and it would be rigid to assume that you need to wear the same sort of thing no matter where you go. You can wear suits for work but sport coats without ties on the weekend. You don’t need to be Barney Stinson from How I Met Your Mother and suit up all the time. When you visit the countryside, you might wear sweaters and tattersall shirts with a Barbour jacket. When you’re taking a beach holiday, perhaps you’ll put on a linen shirt and espadrilles. You may still have certain common threads through all your looks–like always wearing a bit of blue–but odds are your style will really be multiple styles. 9. Assess Your ClosetOnce you have accumulated a decent wardrobe, you can get to your core style by auditing and managing your wardrobe. If you have a social media presence or just for yourself, take a selfie when you wear something you think looks particularly good on you or that you get compliments on. When you have a bunch of photos, review them to see which pieces repeat the most often; these are the foundation of your personal style. If we break it down, finding your style really comes in two major parts. The first is casting a wide net and trying a lot of things. The second is culling things you don’t ‘wear to get to a core wardrobe. CullingBesides looking at photos, look at your closet itself and get rid of things you haven’t worn for a long time, whether a certain number of months or a year max. If you don’t pick them, it’s a sign that they’re not your style. When you first start out, you’re enthusiastic and want to have more outfits, but eventually, you’ll reduce your choices and settle on a sort of uniform that represents you. For me, it’s sports coats and ties with interesting woven textures. The more you try, the less you continue to experiment because you learn what does and doesn’t work for you and settle into “your style.” This can change depending on factors like age or weight, but for the most part, you engage in less trial and error. This doesn’t mean that you have to stop adding to your wardrobe, though. If you find you like wearing navy wool trousers, you’ll soon want navy cotton pants, wool flannel, pleated and flat front, high rise and medium rise. The fact is if you’re serious about style, you’ll never want to stop working at it. The difference is that, after a time, you’ll buy from a more limited range of things because you know you look best in blue, that you prefer a spread collar shirt, and that you like an unlined tie. As your eye develops, you can know at a glance whether an item you see is suitable for you. You’ll be more discerning and purge things from your closet that you no longer wear because they don’t fit your core style. What you’re left with will include signature pieces that define you. I don’t mean something like Karl Lagerfield’s sunglasses and stiff collars or Pharell Williams’ hat–these are more celebrity costume than classic style–but your signature look may be a penchant for pocket squares, odd vests (meaning not part of a matching suit) or colorful shoelaces. Think of it as your brand in terms of style–an aspect that is recognizably and consistently you. 10. Know that it’s a Continuous JourneyOnce you go down the rabbit-hole of traditional men’s style, you have a lifetime to enjoy the fruits of the hobby (obsession?), and even when you have a good sense of your style, things will not get stale. If you relocate, change the sort of job you do, gain or lose weight or simply get older, your style will change in some way. When you reach a certain age, you may wear more comfortable or less showy clothes, probably of higher quality, but then again, you may always like a good Prince of Wales check. ConclusionA given is still that your style won’t (and shouldn’t) ever be static. I’ve shared some of the aspects of the journey you are likely to encounter but can tell you that there’s no substitute for experiencing it firsthand yourself. There will be errors and missteps, but this is part of the learning and the fun. Have you already experienced some of the stages mentioned? What other advice do you have for finding your personal style? Share in the Comments section below.10 Ways to Find Your Personal Style published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr 10 Ways to Find Your Personal Style Huckberry Exclusive Duck Boots – $180I used to hate wearing duckboots as a kid. Growing up in the midwest, my parents dressed me up like Randy from A Christmas Story for the half block walk to Lincoln Elementary School. And part of that drill was duck boots. They seemed pointless and ugly, those classic duck boots. If it was super snowy out, the leather uppers would get soaked, and despite sitting outside Mr. Bass’s classroom on a rug specifically for wet boots, they never dried by the time I had to put them back on for the 3 minute walk home. The rubber heels were always shifting a bit when you tried to plant your foot, and those (wet) leather uppers offered no support. And the laces always came undone. I know, I know, I was lucky to have any boots as a kid. Many go without. But I hated those boots. A blend of retro and futuristic. Nice work Huckberry. These are not those boots. Quite the opposite in fact. It’s like Huckberry raided my brain, scooped up all those dumb childhood memories, and then made a duck boot that was the exact opposite of what I had experienced as a kid. Super supportive and well cushioned. These things look and feel great. Not good. Great. You can tell that the materials were carefully selected. And they even LOOK cool. Like the direct mid point between a Sorrel Caribou and a favorite basketball sneaker. 100% waterproof. Not just the rubber parts. The cushioning is excellent. The padded tongue and collar cradles your ankles. And the rubber tops are thick without being weighty. They lace up well and those waxed laces stay cinched and tied. The whole thing is 100% waterproof (not just the rubber parts). The leather and suede is waterproof too, all while offering solid breathability. Traction is really good too. Sizing seems true. A 10.5 D fit my normally 10.5 D feet perfectly. Really nice materials. Soft leather. Thick but not stiff rubber. Not only are these things a new favorite all weather boot, they might become my new go-to hikers (outside of the dead of summer) thanks to the comfort and good looks. $180 isn’t cheap. I get that. And I needed another pair of boots like I need another hole in my already hole-filled head. But on arrival, I knew they weren’t going back, and forking over my 180 clams seems just fine for what I got. I have other waterproof boots. But when it’s time to grab the shovel to tackle the latest blizzard, or head out on a rainy afternoon to meet a pal for a pint, these are what I’m lacing up. Now only if they came with a time machine so I could go back to 1990 and hand over a kid-sized pair to my younger self. In Review: The Huckberry Duck Boot published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr In Review: The Huckberry Duck Boot |
FashionPassion
I lived my life in Europe and now a global citizen in fashion. I have attended the American University in Texas and hold master degree in Media & Communications. I have also spent 4 years of formal training in clothing and fashion. I love travelling around the world and being in different artistic environments has helped me discover more and more about my passions which is fashion. Personal Links |