Turtleneck sweaters, also known as polo neck, mock neck, skivvy, and so forth. Learn all about its history, how they should fit, how you can style them, and what to pay attention to when you buy them. What Is A Turtleneck?Basically, itâs a sweater with a high rolled collar that is turned down and covers some parts or most parts of your neck. A traditional polo neck or turtleneck is always folded over and itâs very slim fitting in the body. Typically, the turtleneck part itself is made out of a ribbed knit while the body is generally made up of a solid knit. A cousin of the turtleneck is the so-called mock neck. It also covers the neck yet itâs not folded over. Personally, I donât like that style very much because it usually is more flimsy around your neck and it doesnât drape as well as when itâs folded over. Turtleneck HistoryThey first have been worn in the Western Hemisphere in the 15th century. If you wonder why, you know once you put them on that they really keep your neck a lot warmer which is nice for the colder days of the year. Because of that, it never really lost its popularity but by the 19th century, it was primarily a garment for the working class or for sailors. Sometimes, you could also see them worn by naval officers. That being said, it was not a garment that you would see an aristocratic gentleman wearing. In fact, it was a utilitarian garment and it didnât become fashionable until the playwright Noel Coward wore it in the 1920s. Itâs so popular that it was subsequently adopted by the preppy style movement because people wanted something that was more casual and they wore it instead of a shirt and a tie especially during the cooler days of the year. Ever since, turtlenecks have been going in and out of fashion. They were really popular in the 80s and then the demand dropped. I remember I had my first turtleneck sweater about 15 years ago in the early 2000s and at that point, they werenât really popular. That being said, in recent years, there has been a surge in popularity especially with elegant men because itâs a garment that helps you casualize the rest of your somewhat formal wardrobe. Obviously, it keeps your neck warm and it also means you donât need to have a necktie or a bow tie which makes it an ideal winter travel companion. How A Turtleneck Sweater Should FitThe turtleneck is a rather slim fitting garment that is snug and reaches below your waist. Most turtlenecks are quite long so you can tuck them in without them coming out. In the 80s, sweater turtlenecks were very floppy but personally, I think itâs not a good style because you have it sit very close against your neck so itâs floppy in the body, it just looks weird. That being said, turtlenecks usually come in different weight classes, there are some that are extremely thin and itâs a great substitute for a shirt. On the other hand, you have thicker sweaters typically made out of wool which are meant to keep you a lot warmer and you might be able to wear them with an undershirt. Slim and very thin turtlenecks can be great to layer but wearing them on their own, they really show every imperfection of your body. Frankly, whether you wear your turtleneck tucked or untucked is entirely up to you. Personally, I like to wear it tucked with dress pants or if I combine it with a suit, I wear them on top of my pants if itâs a more casual combination. How To Style A Turtleneck Sweater
One of the biggest challenges for turtlenecks is to combine them with your other garments so it looks very well put together. I found, in terms of color, if you follow the concept of contrast and harmony, you always look well-dressed. Contrast & HarmonyBy harmony, I mean that you take a color that complements maybe your jacket or one of your pants. Because turtlenecks are exclusively reserved for the colder seasons of the year, it makes sense to use a more muted color scheme that creates that harmony with other items. By contrast, I mean the colors have to be noticeably different because if everything blends in yet itâs not the same, it has this sort of monochromatic look that simply does not work. How To Buy Turtlenecks?Ideally, you get something that is machine washable because sometimes, youâll sweat more if you go from a cold environment into a warm department store than you would with a different sweater. Because of that, you want to be able to clean it regularly and dry cleaners are very costly so ideally, you want to be able to wash it at home in your washing machine. That means you get something in cotton. Cotton is not very insulating so merino wool is probably the best material for a sweater because it is not as delicate as cashmere yet you can wash it on a gentle cycle in your machine at home. Because I sweat more in them, I have to wash turtlenecks more often and therefore, I get pilling more quickly and the sweaters donât last as long. In terms of colors, I think gray and tan are fantastic companions for the winter season and those would be the first to invest my money in because generally, they work Rather than going with a stark white, I encourage you to go with ivory or off-white because theyâre softer and blends in better with brown tones still creating a contrast but in a way that is more warmer and looks more well-put-together than a plain solid white. If youâre not sure about turtlenecks and whether theyâre right for you, a great place to start is Uniqlo. They provide turtlenecks with a nice slim fit even for shorter guys or for guys like me. They have a nice color palette, they offer merino wool and cotton and they really donât break the bank. No, this is not sponsored at all. Iâve just found that Uniqlo turtlenecks are a great value so give it a try and let me know what you think. Whatâs your take on turtlenecks? How do you usually combine them? Share with us in the comments below!Turtleneck Guide published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Turtleneck Guide
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Last week we recognized the Best Affordable Style of 2018, focusing on the top products pumped out by the retail establishment. This week we’re taking a look back at the best (at least what WE consider the best) of what Dappered had to offer in 2018. Not trying to toot our own horn here. Consider this more of an exercise in recognizing what was popular with the Dappered readers, so we continue to create informative content in the New Year. And by the way, to those Dappered readers: thanks. From Slob to Sharp – 10 Transitional Garments for the Men’s Style NewbieThis is kind of what Dappered is all about, right? Taking a step into the men’s style arena. Upgrading from clothes that, albeit comfortable, don’t reflect the man you truly want to be in the world. Making this transition can be daunting, but there are easy ways to do it, garment by garment, until your look is complete. The Top 10 Men’s Dress Shirts to OwnA lot of basics here (white and blue and standard timeless patterns), but it’s still good to have a guide if you’re starting from scratch. Multiple suggestions and numerous price points for each style are provided. 7 Things About Men’s Style I Wish I Would Have Learned EarlierI made the mistakes so you don’t have to. When first traversing the world of men’s style, it’s easy to get caught up in trends and all the noise that can come along with a plethora of information. From hair product to suiting up, there are some valuable bits of information in this post. 7 Better Looking Alternatives to Wearing a HoodieOriginally from 2015, we updated and rebooted this post. It’s easy to default to a hoodie as a convenient warm garment, but there are so many more stylish ways to stay warm. We gave you 7 in this particular post. 10 Men’s Style Essentials to have in NavyA shopping list for those looking to (smartly) upgrade their gear in deep dark blue. Navy is one of, if not the most versatile color in the world of men’s style. Even if you’re not a huge fan, you likely have some navy in your wardrobe if you have a pair of dark wash denim. For the guy that is looking to create a sharp, versatile wardrobe, he can’t go wrong with navy. Style ScenariosOver the years, including just this past one, we’ve tackled a lot of style scenarios on Dappered. In 2018 the scenarios ranged from Santa’s duds (an annual tradition), to Contemporary Creative Business Casual (calling all tech workers), to a “How do you do fellow kids?” edition. Have an upcoming scenario in your life you’d like advice on? Just shoot an email to [email protected]. Best Posts of 2018 – From upping your game to valuable lessons published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Best Posts of 2018 – From upping your game to valuable lessons When it comes to the classic patterns of menswear, those based on the simple line–that is to say, stripes–remain just as popular today as they have been for centuries. In this primer, we’ll discuss the different kinds of striped patterns in tailored clothes and show you how to “fall in line” with wearing them well. Because men typically want to project a serious, businesslike demeanor when wearing tailored clothes, the two most popular pattern styles are not overly ornate, but are based on the simple geometry of the line: one of these styles being checks (which was the topic of a previous article) and the other stripes. These two basic patterns can create greater interest than simply wearing solids while still looking subdued and formal, though there is always the opportunity (or risk!) of making them quite bold. What are Stripes?Stripes are a series of parallel lines that do not cross each other. They are found in a variety of orientations in menswear; typically, suits and shirts feature vertical stripes, though horizontally striped garments do exist, as well. Additionally, neckwear and accessories (such as pocket squares or hat bands) may feature stripes in various orientations. Because of the lack of interaction between lines, striped patterns are simpler than checks, which also means they tend to be more reserved, and therefore more formal. Combinations of colors are often used to create differently named patterns, which we will discuss below. Stripes 101: Broad TerminologyBefore we dive headfirst into the pantheon of specific stripe styles that exist, it’s important that we go over some terminology. The following terms can be thought of as broad categories that apply to multiple striping patterns; you’ll find definitions for each of the examples listed further down in the article.
Note: The two terms on the above list that are mutually exclusive are “warp stripe” and “weft stripe.” Phrased another way: all self-stripes are either warp or weft stripes, but not both. If stripes were introduced to both the warp and weft yarns of a garment, a check pattern would then be created. Types of Stripes: BalancedSimple Two-Tone Stripes (Narrowest to Widest)
Multicolored and/or Textured Stripes
Types of Stripes: UnbalancedSimple, Two-Tone Stripes (Narrowest to Widest)
Multicolored Stripes
Textured Stripes
Honorable Mentions
How Do You Wear Stripes?In the world of tailored clothing, stripes can be worn in many ways, but the choice depends on your personality and how much you like loud, bold patterns in your wardrobe. ShirtsStriped shirts are usually a safe choice. If you want something restrained that pairs easily with a tie, a standard two-tone stripe, such as a Bengal stripe, is a good option. Even safer would be a pencil stripe or hairline stripe, in that these stripes of a very small scale can read as solids from a distance. Moving toward smart casual or business casual, try a candy stripe with a more muted, solid tie. For totally casual, tieless looks, choose candy stripes or Regency stripes in warm weather and multitrack stripes for winter. On the other hand, if you want to forget about playing it safe, go for a striped shirt with a striped jacket. It’s important to remember in this case that the sizes of the stripes on each garment should differ greatly (for example, a pencil-striped shirt with a sandwich-striped jacket). If the “density” of the patterns is too similar, they will not appear harmonious to the eye. Similarly, consider how prominent the pattern of your shirt is when choosing a tie. Solid color ties are a safe choice, but you could also try a tie that has a stripe of a different scale (regimental stripes, for example), or features a different type of pattern altogether. JacketsStripes on a jacket can sometimes be a bold statement, though not always; generally, the broader the stripe, the bolder the effect. For example, if a jacket features brightly colored sandwich, awning, or blazer stripes, it will come across much more aggressively than one made up of muted pinstripes. Keep this in mind when choosing a jacket, and remember: try on a few options to compare their effects on your frame. For instance, a fine white pinstripe on a navy suit jacket remains conservative, but a cabana-striped summer sports coat or one with Roman stripes would be quite loud. If there are bright colors or many colors, the jacket obviously becomes bolder. A navy hairline stripe on a grey jacket is easy to wear, but a pencil stripe would require more careful consideration. Whatever you choose, one thing you will notice with a striped jacket is how it creates the impression of a longer torso. Tailored menswear has always sought to flatter the male form through added visual suggestion; vertical lines over the chest draw the gaze upward. As a general practice, pair your patterned jacket (if it is not part of a suit) with solid trousers, to avoid clashing patterns. Regarding your choice of tie, you can follow two options of layering and either wear a solid tie or go pattern-on-pattern, which requires more skill. SuitsStripes are not as inherently bold as checks, and can be worn with slightly greater latitude in suits (as evidenced by the rich history of pinstripes and chalk stripes in white-collar professions). Therefore, their acceptability depends on the dress code of your office and how much you want to be noticed. Suits with broader chalk stripes (or “rope stripes”) are more risky, as the loud pattern can easily make your outfit look more like a costume. Italian style tends to be bolder in making use of striped suits, especially ones with regularly spaced patterns, but they are still difficult to carry off. OvercoatsIt is said that things you can’t get away with in a jacket, like large peak lapels and aggressive textures, are acceptable with an overcoat. The same goes for stripes. Even so, however, bold, wide stripes on an overcoat should be avoided, as when combined with a long, buttoned overcoat, you will appear to onlookers as one giant mass of large stripes. Instead, opt for a more reserved stripe, similar to one found on a well-made suit. Though always a statement, a subtly striped overcoat, worn with an otherwise reserved outfit, is likely to garner more style compliments than other garments that would be considered loud. PantsAs mentioned above, striped pants worn with a plain jacket (either a cutaway coat or lounge coat) are a staple of proper morning dress. Outside of formal daywear, however, striped pants are somewhat less common as a standalone garment than their checked (or differently patterned) brethren. As such, those pairs that do exist often feature wider patterns in bright colors, and would best be characterized in such cases as a type of “go-to-hell pants” and worn in the same way, as a statement. WaistcoatsA great option for wearing stripes in tailoring is a waistcoat. The waistcoat has traditionally been a means of introducing bold color or pattern, adding personality and a sense of fun under a more conservative suit. Whereas bold pants are an in-your-face defiance of convention, bold waistcoats are almost expected, and you can match a color in the pattern with that of your jacket. AccessoriesAs is usually the case with any bold colors or patterns, accessories are a good place to start with stripes because they represent a relatively small dose of the pattern, and can integrate a bit of interest without becoming visually overwhelming. The most commonly represented stripes on neckties are hairline stripes, colored shadow stripes, and regimental stripes (all most often at a diagonal, though the first two of these can sometimes be vertical or horizontal). Multitrack stripes can be a good choice for casual ties, and wooly winter ties gain subtle interest from a fabric-style shadow stripe. In drab winter weather, a striped scarf can be a terrific option as well, lending interest and excitement when colors are more muted. Meanwhile, in summer, outfitting a straw hat with a striped band can up your sporty sprezzatura. ConclusionHopefully, this article has cleared up the distinctions among the various forms of striped fabrics available in menswear. With this information and a bit of practice, you should be able to name a stripe style on sight and even identify hybrid combinations that blend the features of more than one kind of stripe (for example, an alternating end-on-end pattern). Stripes are a versatile pattern style that can either tend toward the casual and evoke a sporting heritage, or be right at home in more formal settings–featured in the wardrobes of everyone from resort-goers to bankers. This wide range of possibilities speaks well to the versatility of stripes in your wardrobe, as they are amenable to being dressed up or down. Overall, one thing’s for sure–if you do your homework, it’s not hard to earn your stripes. How do you like to wear striped patterns? Tell us in the Comments section.Stripes in Menswear: Different Types and How to Wear Them published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Stripes in Menswear: Different Types and How to Wear Them The end of the year means it’s time to hand out some awards. No, there’re no little statues to pass along, but over the next few days we’ll still highlight some of the best in affordable men’s style from this past year. And it was a good one. Feel free to send in additional nominations to [email protected]. Orient Bambino Small Seconds – $150 (when on Massdrop) – $169Shown above with the oft-desired champagne dial. How do you improve upon a legend? You slap a perfectly proportioned, subtly textured small seconds hand on the dial, keep the rest simple, and stick with the mid to classically sized diameter and domed crystal. The Orient Bambino Sub Seconds quickly became a hit. So much so that it’s really pretty hard to find some of the color combinations (like the champagne dial shown above). But play your cards right, and you can get one of these insta-classics for around $150 during a mega sale or a drop on Massdrop. Full review of the small seconds can be found here. Also Receiving Votes: The Seiko Samurai Automatic, The Timex Hand Wound & Automatic Marlins, the dependable Seiko SKX line, the Citizen Nighthawk, Hamilton’s Khaki Field Automatic. Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Watch published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Watch How to layer knitwear published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr How to layer knitwear The end of the year means it’s time to hand out some awards. No, there’re no little statues to pass along, but over the next few days we’ll still highlight some of the best in affordable men’s style from this past year. And it was a good one. Feel free to send in additional nominations to [email protected]. Spier & Mackay’s Slim or Contemporary Base Line Suits – $275 – $348Three years running. And well deserved. There are very, very few things not to like about Spier & Mackay’s entry level suits (they do fancy Italian wools too for an upcharge, but the base line is just fine). Half canvas, Australian merino wool, they come with easy to tailor non functioning sleeve buttons, the lapels are a timeless width, and the two cuts that they offer (slim, and the more generous yet not boxy “contemporary” fit) seem to fit the vast majority of the population. Their base line of suits runs a very reasonable $328 – $348 USD. And sometimes less with sales. Much less. Like, in the mid to high two hundreds. Those attributes, and that price, more than make up for the fact that returns are only free on your first suit or sportcoat purchase. But that’s a small knock against them. Also, sometimes the more common sizes seem to sell out awfully fast. But they usually re-stock as the seasons change. You just have to plan a bit and pay attention to when they re-stock. We’ll do our best to notify you when it happens. Bottom line: Solid quality, nice fabrics, and fine finishing (buttons, stitching, curved chest pocket, etc…) is a tough combo to find at the mid $300s or less. That’s cheap-ish fused suit territory. So a mighty appreciative (& suited) hat tip once again goes to our neighbors north of the border where they’re based. Full review of the Slim fit Fit can be found here, while the Contemporary Fit review can be found here. Also Receiving Votes: Suitsupply’s $399 Blue line. J. Crew’s Ludlow and Classic fit/Crosby suits if you can snag em’ on sale. Black Lapel’s Custom Suits. Banana Republic’s (fused) Italian Wool Suit Separates. Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Suit published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Suit Wool conjures images of itchy holiday sweaters and scratchy blankets for many, but this natural material has so many qualities that go underappreciated. Today we’ll take a deeper dive into wool and its origins, properties, and best uses for the dapper man. What is Wool?Wool is a category of textile fibers derived from the coat of mainly sheep, but also goats, muskoxen, rabbits, camels, llamas, alpacas, vicunas, guanacos, and even cattle and pigs. Wool’s Special CharacteristicsWhile wool is grown to keep an animal insulated, it is not the same as hair or fur. Wool fibers are crimped and elastic, and they have scale, which in combination give wool it’s unique characteristics. Crimp describes the waviness or texture of the wool, which corresponds to the fineness of the fiber. Merino wool can have as many as 100 crimps per inch. Scale is the roughness of the surface of the fiber. Hair, for example, has very little scale and no crimp, so it is nearly impossible to weave into a yarn since the smooth straightness of the hair doesn’t create grip. Wool fibers have good scale, which helps the fibers attach to each other. Wool is also an elastic fiber, meaning that it resists distortion and has the ability to return to its original form. Wool, interestingly, readily absorbs moisture while also being flame resistant. Wool is often used in contexts in which flame retardant properties are useful, such as the clothing and underlayers for firefighters. Finally, wool contains lanolin, which is a natural wax that is produced in tandem with wool. It helps to “waterproof” sheep from the elements, preventing the wetness from reaching the skin of the animal. For the purposes of this article, we’ll explore the history, finishing, buying, and care of sheep wool only. For more on cashmere, check out our Cashmere Explained Guide. History of WoolSheep have been domesticated by humans since as early as 11,000BC, but evidence suggests that wool harvesting and weaving didn’t occur until 4000 or 3000 BC. Around 1900BC, Britain developed the ability to spin and weave. The earliest known preserved wool textile was discovered in a Danish bog, and it was dated to 1500BC. The Romans wore primarily wool, linen, and leather for garments. In 50AD, they established a wool production center in what is now Winchester, UK. Despite the advances in wool finishing techniques, wool began to take on its greatest economic importance more than 10 centuries later in the Middle Ages. Annual wool fairs in cities across Europe made the wool the basis of much international trade, and wool was the primary export and economic driver of England and the kingdom of Castile. In 1194, Richard the Lionhearted of England was being held prisoner by Henry, the Holy Roman Emporer, and part of his ransom was paid with 50,000 sacks of wool; this was the equivalent of an entire year’s worth of English wool production at the time. Wars and invasions of neighboring countries caused talented weavers to relocate or be enslaved, creating new centers of wool production. Flemish weaver migrated to England in the 14th century to avoid a Spanish invasion, while Greek weavers were forcibly sent to Italy after the Norman conquest of Greece in the 12th century. In the Rennaissance, the Medici family built their fortune (and empire) on the wool trade. Between the 15th and 18th centuries, the wool trade was so powerful that exporting sheep was punishable by death in Spain. Spain possessed the coveted Merino breed of sheep. The value of wool was so powerful in Spain that it was said to have funded their extensive maritime exploration, including that of Christopher Columbus. In England, as much as two-thirds of exports were derived from wool during this period. Other parts of the world also relied heavily on wool for the basis of their economy; England became a colonial powerhouse partly by building Australia’s economy on raising sheep and exporting wool. In 1797, the first Merino sheep arrived (the death penalty having been abolished two decades prior) and eventually were selectively bred to produce some of the finest wool in the world. Wool was the world’s most important textile industry in terms of volume and value until the mid-20th century and the creation of synthetic materials. New synthetic fibers were cheaper, easier to wash, and felt softer on the skin, which led to big production declines. Wool production across the world has declined by more than 50% since 1960, as land is increasingly allocated to more profitable uses such as beef and cotton growing. Even now, wool continues to lose ground to less expensive fibers in textiles and to increasing costs in the industry. Wool is predicted to become exclusive to the luxury good market unless radical changes occur to demand, production, and competition. How is Wool CreatedWool is a very labor intensive fiber to produce. The process occurs over seven steps. ShearingThe process of making wool begins with shearing the sheep, which is typically done once a year in spring when the animals no longer need a heavy coat for insulation. The newly shorn wool is called a fleece, and even though there is some mechanization available, it is still predominantly done by hand. A single fleece can weigh 6-18 pounds. Grading & SortingGrading and sorting break up a fleece into the various qualities of fibers, which come from different parts of the sheep. The best quality comes from the shoulders and sides of the sheep, which is then used for clothing. Cleaning & ScouringThe wool must then be stripped of contaminants, which can equal 30-70% of the fleece by weight. The fibers are scoured with water, soap and alkaline ingredients. CardingNext, the wool is given a final cleaning and straightening by passing the fibers through a series of metal teeth. At this stage, the wool is separated into two types, worsted and woolen. Wool for worsted yarn is stripped of the shorter fibers and the long fibers are aligned. Wool intended for woolen yarn goes directly to the spinning stage. SpinningThe carded wool is then turned into thread by spinning it into a single strand of yarn. Multiple yarns are then spun together with other yarns (referred to as ply). Since wool has an excellent scale, it is easy to spin it into yarn relative to other fibers. WeavingThe threads are then woven into a fabric, typically in the form of a plain or a twill weave. Woolen yarns are woven into a plain weave, which results in a looser construction and a softly napped surface. Worsted yarns are woven in a twill weave, resulting in a smooth finish that is prized for its durability relative to the woolen yarn. Suit fabrics are a good example of the intended use for worsted wool twill weave. FinishingThe process of finishing adds the final desired characteristics to the woven wool. Wool can be shrink-proofed, fulled and crabbed to interlock and set the fibers, and dyed to the desired color. The Best Quality WoolMore than 500 breeds of sheep around the world produce approximately 1.2 million kilograms of raw wool each year. The wool can be classified based on the diameter of the individual fibers, in units of microns.
Fine wool fibers are used for clothing, while the thicker fibers are used for rugs and interior textiles. The stereotypical “itchy” wool sweater occurs when the retailer uses a larger micron diameter wool, as the rough ends of these fibers scratch the skin. Woolens and worsteds are often categorized by a few origin-based terms: MerinoMerino is a specific breed of sheep that has fine fibers. It’s the softest wool on the market, though not all merino wool is created equal. Standard merino wool is about 23 microns; fine merino around 18 microns; superfine is 16, and ultra-fine is less than 15.5 microns. The long length of the Merino fiber also makes it resist pilling better than shorter fiber wool. LambswoolLambswool comes from the first shearing of a sheep at around age 7 months, when the fibers are particularly soft and elastic. It’s the rarer, higher-quality version of regular wool. Shetland WoolShetland Wool comes from, you guessed it, a breed of sheep living on the Shetland islands. This wool is around 23 microns, making it much rougher than lambswool and Merino wool. This wool is great for heavy, warm sweaters you plan to layer over shirts. 100% WoolThis type of wool will offer you little information besides the fact that it comes from a woolly animal. It is most likely sheep, but it’s the lower quality, rougher cousin of lambswool and merino. Wool BlendsManufacturers often blend wool with other fibers to increase softness, make it easier to wash, or to cut costs while retaining a higher price. Environmental Consequences of WoolLike all natural materials, wool has an impact on the environment that you may want to consider before buying it. Wool comes from livestock, which has environmental issues such as water pollution, land overuse, and wildlife impacts. Sheep need ample grazing lands, and they tend to over-graze land in a way that pickier livestock (such as cows) do not. Like cows, sheep emit methane, which is a greenhouse gas that negatively impacts climate change. Sheep are dipped in insecticide baths to prevent infestations, which can linger in wool. Wool production requires a great deal of water, dyes, and chemicals. Some also consider the process of shearing the sheep to be cruel. On the positive side, wool is a renewable natural material. Wool is a biodegradable material with useful environmental applications. As it degrades, wool slowly emits the nutrient nitrogen and retains water well, making it an effective substitute for other artificial turf products and some fertilizers. In the same way, wool can be used to help prevent erosion. How to Buy WoolBuying wool can be a frustrating experience because so few retailers list the details of materials beyond the “100% wool” tag. The more information the retailer provides, the more transparent they are willing to be about the quality of their wool. If quality is important to you, look for more rather than less information on the product description and ask sales staff for more details. For the purposes of comfort, the finer the wool fiber, the softer it is on the skin. That being said, wool isn’t always worn directly against the skin, and it’s advisable to avoid doing so to limit the frequency of cleaning. For woolens such as sweaters and vests, buy the softest quality you can afford. Merino is the most expensive, followed by lambswool. That being said, if you are planning to layer these garments over others, 100% wool will still be comfortable for you and your wallet. Sources for High-Quality WoolThe market for wool products is ever-changing, so use your newfound knowledge of wool to keep an eye out for great wool products. For some reliable sources for wool products, check out these manufacturers below. Shetland Wool Sweaters and Blankets: Pendleton Affordable, simple wardrobe staples in lambswool and merino: Uniqlo For a range of merino and lambswool basics, WoolOvers For a range of wool pocket squares and reversible Silk/Merino scarves, check out Fort Belvedere. Merino fisherman and cardigan sweaters, Blarney Woolen Mills For more, check out our extensive Sweater Guide. How to Wash WoolWool does not have a reputation as being easy to wash and care for. It can shrink, pill, and become distorted if cared for improperly, and it is true that the less wool is handled, the better it will last. The main challenge with wool lies in one of it’s prized characteristics – its scale. The grip of the fibers makes it excellent for spinning, but this characteristic also makes it difficult to maintain in the fabric’s original shape. Whenever the fabric is rubbed or agitated, the fibers grip and interlock with their neighbors, tightening or pilling the fabric. Wool also readily soaks up water, which can stretch and distort the fabric with the excess weight of the water in the material. Many wool sweaters indicate that they should be dry cleaned, but this is not a good solution. Even though it claims to be “dry”, dry cleaning uses a commercial-sized washing machine and a bath of chemicals in place of water and detergent. For a thorough look at dry cleaning, check out our article. Wool can be safely cared for at home without the need for dry cleaning. First, minimize the need to wash wool sweaters by wearing them carefully. Wear an undershirt with them to avoid contact with sweat and dirt, and fold them rather than hanging them. For a sweater that does need washing, begin by rolling it tightly and stuffing it into a mesh laundry bag – it is crucial that there shouldn’t be any extra room in the bag. This prevents the sweater from rubbing up against itself or other clothes. Wash it on the shortest, gentlest cycle in your washer (delicate or handwash) with a small amount of mild detergent and warm water. Yes, warm water! Cold water does not activate soap, which can leave soap residue behind. Furthermore, heat increases the viscosity of water, allowing it to flow better in and out of the fabric. To finish, never dry wool in the machine – carefully reshape it if needed and allow it to dry flat. ConclusionWool may very well become a fabric only used in luxury clothing, but it has some remarkable properties that make it worth the expense. What wool pieces do you own? Wool Explained published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Wool Explained The end of the year means it’s time to hand out some awards. No, there’re no little statues to pass along, but over the next few days we’ll still highlight some of the best in affordable men’s style from this past year. And it was a good one. Feel free to send in additional nominations to [email protected]. The Rise of the Knit SportcoatThere is no specific winner this year. But a certain style of blazer/sportcoat absolutely took center stage this year. And that style was the knit sportcoat. Dressing down a sportcoat gets real easy when it’s knit. From high end brands to bargain big box stores, seemingly everyone did a knit sportcoat this year. And when executed well, these things are hugely versatile. Polished enough to wear with an OCBD and chinos, or dress it down with a t-shirt or henley and jeans.
Some are made of sweatshirt material. Some are made of fancy Italian wool. Some are made of a wool/cotton blend. This past year knit sportcoats came in just about every color and fabric combination imaginable. And we’ll kick off 2019 (once we’re back from a break) with a round up of the best of the best that you can get your hands on. So stay tuned for that. Also Receiving Votes: The spendy, but incredibly nice, unconstructed Italian wool blazers from Bonobos. Spier & Mackay’s navy wool hopsack blazer. Lands’ End’s Half-Canvas Wool Blazer. Brooks Brothers on sale Regent Fit, wool or wool blend Sportcoats. J. Crew’s Legacy Wool Blazers. Suitsupply’s Havana Fit Sportcoats in whatever fabric that fits your needs. Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Blazer / Sportcoat published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Blazer / Sportcoat Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit |
FashionPassion
I lived my life in Europe and now a global citizen in fashion. I have attended the American University in Texas and hold master degree in Media & Communications. I have also spent 4 years of formal training in clothing and fashion. I love travelling around the world and being in different artistic environments has helped me discover more and more about my passions which is fashion. Personal Links |