Here we are in 2019. Already heading into February. If you created one or multiple resolutions for this new year, now might be the time that you’re loosing a little bit of steam. The shine might be starting to wear off just ever so slightly of that big picture goal you envisioned for this year. You haven’t given up, you’re still working at it, but you’ve noticed your motivation waning. You know what that means? You have a human brain. Congratulations! All joking aside, trying to create lasting change is hard. Our brains don’t like it. Or more appropriately, our automatic brains, or animal brains, don’t like it. Let me break this down. What’s working against you.We have three main sections to our brain. The reptile brain (thank you sun bathing lizard), the mammal brain (looking at you Koko), and the human brain, which is just a larger neocortex compared to other animals on this planet. Because of this larger cortex, we humans have the capability to create some pretty incredible things, and it also gives us the ability to be critical of our own thinking (which will come in handy later on in this post). “You’re welcome.” (photo credit) Our reptile and mammal brain magically creates automation. This is why you don’t stop breathing. This is also why you can get in your car and drive to work without really being aware that you’re driving to work. You can think of other things, fiddle with the radio, and drink a cup of coffee. The action of driving is so automated, you don’t need your full attention on it to perform the task. But being the uber smart creatures we are, we’ve created a gazillion (that might not be the precise number but it feels like it is) things that our brains have decided are beneficial to our survival, that we access over and over, creating a hardwired neuro-pathway in response (automation). Beer everday after work at 5:30pm. Automation. 2 hours of TV before bed. Automation. Compulsive phone checking. Automation. Doing nothing out of fear of failure. Yep, automation. The sole purpose of the automated brain is to keep you alive. Anything, and I mean ANYTHING it perceives as something good for your survival results in your brain then using the magic of chemistry to drive you back to said thing, over and over again if possible. Think about this: before we had engineered our world as we have, the things that would create the good feeling chemicals wouldn’t last. Finding fruit to eat in our environment would likely result in a huge good feeling chemical reaction, and our brain would use dopamine to drive us back to it over and over. But fruit only lasts so long since fruiting trees and shrubs have their cycles, so eventually the object of our chemical affection would disappear, and we’d have to go through the discomfort of withdrawal, but we’d get past it because we had no other choice. Not so in modern times. So when we make a resolution to change something about our behavior, we’re working against ingrained subconscious thinking that has automated the very thing we want to change. And that animal brain ain’t no dummy. It knows the cookies are still there. It knows the couch with the TV in front of it is still there. It knows the discounted Allen Edmonds are still there, just waiting to be added to your killer shoe collection. And it knows that your favorite cocktail at your favorite bar has your name on it, and is ready to celebrate that shoe purchase with you. You know you want me. One of the key things that people don’t take into consideration is the discomfort, sometimes extreme, that comes along with change. Your body was made to produce this discomfort. Without discomfort, we’re not warned to get back into a “safe space.” As long as we’re alive and there is still the possibility of passing our genes on through offspring, the brain thinks things are A-OK. When we make a resolution, we’re shaking up the status quo of our body, and asking it to change things. (Our brain and body like that just about as much as a Dappered reader would like pop-up ads on the website. As in not at all. Which, subsequently, is why we don’t do it.) Our minds have tricks up their sleeves to try and get us to stay the same, and here are 3 examples: The Motivational Triad – this is the operating system that the reptilian and animal brain work by. The triad is comprised of 3 guidelines:
A resolution, at least early on, is usually not pleasurable, likely painful (if not physically then mentally), and takes a lot of energy, since your brain has to literally create new circuits for this new behavior or habit of yours. Plus, if you’re not answering the call of your neurochemicals to go back to your old ways, energy is being wasted. Energy to your body is like the ring is to Gollum. PRECIOUS. The operating system of the lower brain. Dopamine – this is the neurochemical that drives urges. As an anticipatory chemical, your brain creates dopamine to make you feel uncomfortable enough that you have to take a certain action in order to relieve the discomfort, and cause the dopamine to back off. So that uncomfortable feeling you get when you’re driving home from work to eat your resolution salad for dinner, and you realize you’re about to pass by the McDonald’s drive-through and you can’t think about anything else and all of a sudden you’ve pulled into McDonald’s and you’re placing your order? That’s dopamine getting the better of you. But here’s the thing about dopamine. Resources in your body are finite, so the dopamine push your brain releases will not last forever. You just need to be willing to let that discomfort wave roll on in, break on the shore, and then go back out to sea. Oxytocin – this is the neurochemical that bonds us to others. When you go out with a group of friends after work to drink, you’re all working towards a common goal, and your brain rewards you for that. Now if you go out with them, and your resolution is to not drink, and you don’t get your normal beverage, and they see that, all of a sudden there is difference. Albeit small. If you don’t pivot and bond over something else (like, oh I don’t know, your friendships or work or whatever, not just the bourbon barrel aged stout in your glass) then you risk discomfort. The thing (booze) that bonded you before, that created the oxytocin in both your brain and their brains, is gone. And that’s uncomfortable, since your brains are used to getting that feel good hit from oxytocin when everyone is doing the same thing in a group. Now, in a small way, you’re the outsider. So guess what might kick in to try and get you to change your behavior? Dopamine. Gaaaaaahhhhhhh! So as you can see, our brain and body like to keep things steady, and a resolution rocks the boat. But not all is lost. Successfully keeping a resolution.The first step to understanding how to change is understanding why you haven’t been able to do it in the first place. Hopefully some of what I explained in the previous paragraphs shed some light on why up until now you’ve not been able to change. But if you truly want change in your life, there is a path to success. Identifying how you’re truly thinking about your goal is key. (photo credit) This is where the use of your neo-cortex, specifically your prefrontal cortex, comes into play. Our gift, compared to other species, is that humans can actually watch ourselves think. We have the privilege of observing our thinking, applying understanding to it, and then changing it if we want to. (Meditation is the best way to practice this daily.) Now if you’ve been living primarily through your animal or automated brain, which a lot of people do, this may seem like a tall order. And truth be told, it kind of is. But it’s not impossible. Step One – Find the thought(s) working against you.Thoughts create feelings, feelings create actions, actions create results. This is how the machine of you works. If you have a resolution, say to meditate every day, but you have an underlying, subconscious thought that says “Meditation is hard”, that’s going to create a negative feeling. Perhaps something like discouragement or anxiety. Those feelings, which are just chemical reactions in your body, will then drive actions that create the result you get. As long as you keep thinking that thought, it will always be “hard” to meditate. Or, the same thought could cause another person to feel relieved, and in that feeling they take the action of giving themselves a break, an excuse to not meditate regularly, with the end result that they never improve their meditation skills, and it remains “hard.” So taking the time to actually dig in and discover what you truly think about your resolution can reveal why it is or has been hard to keep. Step Two – Chose a new thought.If you identify that you’re having negative thoughts about your resolution, it’s time to use the power of your human brain to chose a new thought. Yes, you can do that. And you can chose a thought that’s going to get you a better result. Back to the meditation scenario, what if every time “meditation is hard” popped into your head, you consciously switched to thinking “meditation helps a lot of people and maybe it can help me.” A thought like that might produce a feeling of curiosity, which could drive the action of continuing the meditation process in order to find out. And simply by thinking a thought like that, you’re helping rather than working against yourself. Change requires managing your thoughts. (photo credit) Step Three – Keep thinking that thought.Even though you found a new thought to think, that’s not the thought that’s part of your subconscious. So, here’s where the work really comes in. Now you have to pay attention to when that original thought comes up, put the brakes on it, and intentionally think the new one. What will eventually happen is the old thought pathway will get weaker, and the new one stronger. This takes time though, and remember, you’re working against those tricks your brain/body have up their sleeve to try and drive you back to an old way of being. But there’s something magical about actually discovering thinking patterns, and calling them out into the light. They somehow quickly lose some of their influence and power. It’s like the wizard behind the curtain being exposed. Step Four – Visualize your results.Everyday take some time, even if it’s just 60 seconds, to visualize yourself having successfully obtained or kept your resolution. Really see it, and FEEL IT. Let your body create emotion during the visualization. Emotion is what cements a thought into our brain. Think of your most powerful memories. They stuck because there was a big emotional response involved. Your brain doesn’t know the difference between something actually happening, and a visualization you have in your mind. See the success you want everyday in your minds eye, so your brain will start to believe it’s real, and conjure up the emotion you’ll feel having achieved it. If this requires a fist pump or two, you go. Step Five – Make your Motivation.Motivation is not a starter, it’s an accelerator. In other words, if you wait around for motivation to get started, or to start back up, you’re screwed. Motivation comes after you start. As Ralph Waldo Emerson said “Do the thing, and you’ll get the energy to do the thing.” This can be one of the most painful parts, just getting started. Allow the discomfort, and just push through. Remember, even though it might feel like something bigger, all that is in your way is a thought. Competency creates confidence, so just keep chipping away, knowing competence will come with repetition. Just get it started, and motivation will kick in. (photo credit) Step Six – Buddy up or create a support group.See if you can round up a group of friends to go after a goal or two at the same time you do. Remember, our brains love oxytocin, the bonding chemical. Working toward a goal within a group that supports one another can create some feel-good chemicals and take the edge off of the changing brain. If you can’t find someone you already know, guaranteed there is an online group you can join that’s working towards the exact same goal you are. Final ThoughtsA lot of people shy away from making resolutions after several failed attempts. Or they say they don’t make New Year’s resolutions because if they want to change something they can do it at any time, and this is completely true. But if you never actually get started with the change, then perhaps resolving to reach a goal at a specific time of year isn’t that bad of an idea. You can use the momentum that group think creates to get over that starter speed bump. Then you can start to look at your thoughts, manage your mind, and keep yourself on a successful mental path towards your goals. Because thought is where it all begins, and thought is what keeps it moving along. About the Author: Sarah is a long time member of the Dappered team, typically working behind the scenes editing posts, taking some photos, and keeping the books in good standing. She is also a certified health coach, and certified life coach. Occasionally she’ll come out from behind the curtain to offer her two cents. You can follow her on Instagram. If you’re interested in learning more about self coaching, send an email to [email protected]. How to keep a Resolution published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr How to keep a Resolution
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Hell of a year 2018. Prognosticating the ebb and flow of Men’s style is not easy. But that doesn’t mean we can’t throw a few mental darts at the board. Below you’ll find a few predictions for the upcoming year in men’s style. An emphasis has been placed on the affordable realm, and note that these aren’t necessarily endorsements/wishes. Just predictions. Amazon keeps on expanding Goodthreads/Buttoned DownUncle Jeff’s internet emporium is coming for your style budget. Fashion/Style has always been the oddly large hole in the “everything store’s” arsenal. Now, with their own house brands picking up steam, I’d say they’re poised to start bumping off struggling, traditional, wearing the albatross that is mall footprint possessing brands that haven’t been as quick to adapt to the 21st century. Amazon’s house brands are now doing everything from selvedge denim to Italian wool sportcoats to basics like merino sweaters. And more often than not, they’re doing these things really well. Amazon. They’re doing style surprisingly well. J. Crew Scales Back. A Lot.Maybe, maybe not. But they’ve been in turmoil for a while now, and 2018 seemed to have been the year where they ended up taking a knee on the canvas. Mickey Drexler is now gone (not just kinda gone, real gone). The influences of Jenna Lyons and Frank Muyjtens are fading further and further from memory. 2019 might be when changes at J. Crew become even more obvious in terms of what they’re making and selling. Menswear finds some sort of new status symbolMillennials aren’t buying cars. Phones are too pricey. Watches, while having a moment for sure, are still too niche to some (especially when you’re struggling to make your student loan payments). I don’t know what it’s gonna be though. I mean, this is sorta why intentional ugly caught on. If you wear ugly ass luxury sneakers, you’re showing the world you have so much money (or are pretending to) that you can buy ugly ass luxury sneakers. Intentional Ugly gains even more steamSpeaking of Intentional ugly… I wish I could say the opposite was gonna happen, but I don’t think we’ve hit peak intentional ugly yet. Rising income inequality + a decade of social media convincing their disaffected users they need to express individuality, on their platforms, in the loudest way possible = these ugly ass expensive sneakers. Patient zero for intentional ugly. $900. But they stand out on the ‘gram!! Social Media “Influencers” start having less influenceThank goodness. SUNSET HEART HANDS. Banana Republic has a very good year, style wiseI don’t know how they’re doing on the business side in terms of profits, but they’ve been winning a LOT lately with what they’ve been making. I can’t remember the last time they stumbled. They even took something that can be a disaster (celebrity capsule collections) and made it a huge winner (the Kevin Love collaboration). From basics like sweaters and jeans, to more investment worthy stuff like sportcoats and outerwear, Banana Republic has been knocking it out of the park. Banana Republic has been doing real well style-wise. The New Allen Edmonds Ownership keeps trying, awkwardly, to young up their customer baseHow do you do fellow kids? Also, looks like they’ve killed off the online, e-commerce platform for their factory 2nds shoes. Shoebank.com continues to live though. So, maybe it’s just back to the old ways of actually having to pick up the phone and making a call? The march towards casual but intentional/modern casual picks upThere was a point in late December to mid January that I hadn’t tucked a shirt in in weeks. And if someone who, at his core, is a bit of a traditionalist/old fuddy duddy is actually buying into this intentional-casual thing? Then maybe that says something. Just because it’s casual doesn’t mean it has to look sloppy. A big retailer tries to kill off sales + promo codes in favor of “everyday” low prices, and it fails spectacularlyJC Penney tried it. Orient tried it. It doesn’t seem to work. So why do brands keep trying it? Because they make the mistake in assuming that we humans are rational. We’re not. Target does their best to match Amazon’s Prime shipping serviceTarget rolled out free two day shipping over the holidays in an attempt to compete with Amazon’s stranglehold on general retail thanks to their 2-day shipping promise. I wouldn’t be shocked if they try it again, or make it a semi-permanent feature. Target seems the likely David to Amazon’s Goliath, and if the way they’ve named their menswear brands (goodfellow vs goodthreads) is any indication, these two are gonna slug it out for the foreseeable future. Goodfellow & Co. Which is from Target. Goodthreads is from Amazon. Go figure. A new brand (or 12) launches online promising to pass along major savings to its customers by cutting out the middlemen and selling DIRECTLY to the consumer over the internet!This is not new. At all. Quit it with the dumb flow charts of how “traditional” retail works, and how your “new” business model works. We’ve seen it. And we’re not believing you. The Mall has a comebackJust kidding, those things are corpses. Got a prediction of your own for men’s style in 2019? Got some inside intel you’d like to share that proves one of these predictions wrong? Send those into [email protected]. Men’s Style Predictions for 2019 published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Men’s Style Predictions for 2019 Danner x Huckberry Vertigo 917 Hiking Boot – $220About the Author: Stephen Knight is a photographer / videographer who founded Itsaknightslife. His mission is to tell the story of people through style, food, music, and dancing. Catch his stuff at itsaknightslife on Instagram and Youtube. As a Floridian who is moving west to Denver in the near future, I’m definitely in the market for a versatile boot that looks good in the city, but can handle the elements of the west. Enter the Vertigo 917 Goldrush Boot, a collaboration between Huckberry and Danner. This is a 21st century boot. Sneaker comfort, great looks, but still waterproof and breathable. Coming in at $220, these boots aren’t necessarily “budget,” but provide more than enough value to justify that price. When it comes to the waterproof leather and suede and the other materials used for the soles and foot-bed, these shoes really swing above their weight-class, considering how unique they feel and perform. The LooksThe looks of these shoes boils down to one word. Yes. These are some lookers. The small details of the shoe compliments the tan leather and suede outer shell, and it helps that the neutral color tone of the boots can be worn with multiple outfit styles. These have the look that would blend in with a good pair of selvedge (Yes.. I said selvedge, but regular jeans are fine too) denim, and a bomber jacket in the city, or just regular chinos and a V-neck if you want to go hiking. Two contrasting scenarios right? That’s because these boots are built to handle both, and it seems they do it well. The ConstructionLet’s talk about the construction on these boots, because damn, these feel well made. They’re made with “premium” suede and waterproof (!!!) full grain leather, while being held together by moisture-wicking GORE-TEX liners… Meaning that we have a 100% fully waterproof boot on our hands… or feet. Perfect for if you ever accidentally walk into that puddle (or pond) you didn’t see (RIP my Chucks,) yet your feet won’t be sweating to death thanks to the Gore-Tex. The foot-bed is made with a polyurethane OrthoLite foot-bed, and the mid-sole with a lightweight Vibram SPE. To boil down the formal verbiage, these things are comfortable… REALLY comfortable. A necessary thing if you are walking in the city or the greater outdoors for an extended period of time. And sizing seems true. Huckberry says they’re true to size, but also suggests ordering two sizes if you’re unsure, and sending the other back since these ship and return for free. The Pleasant SurpriseSomething that caught me off guard when I initially saw these were the chelsea-boot-like elastic panels on either side of the ankle. They make putting these boots on a joy. This is one of those things I didn’t know that I wanted, but am glad that I have them anyway. Putting on my Clarks boots afterward was instantly more annoying, which says a lot about how boot wearing could be. Kudos to whoever came up with that idea, I salute you. Final ThoughtsFinding items that can double for looks and utilities are usually costly, and these somewhat hold that reputation true. But when you factor in the value you are getting with these boots, coupled with the premium materials that will have this boot holding up for years. I think $220 is more than justifiable for a boot that instantly put a smile on my face. Now let’s just see if don’t slip on snow in my first real winter. In Review: The Danner X Huckberry Vertigo 917 Gold Rush published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr In Review: The Danner X Huckberry Vertigo 917 Gold Rush What are you going to wear? Sometimes it’s good to look at a few suggestions then add your own tweaks and ideas. That’s what these are for. Seemingly hand-in-hand with the advent of the digital workplace, came the laid-back dress code. Jeans are aplenty, and suits are becoming increasingly rare. Still, with many office places housing a diverse set of employees in multiple business units with different priorities, it’s important to look put together and sharp if you reside in the more relaxed crowd of business. Or, if you’re a work from home employee or self-employed, this can serve as a guide to staying comfortable, yet putting you in a state of mind for work. As a former work-from-home professional, I know the difficulty of productivity when you spend the whole day in gym clothes. The Sweater: Goodthreads Cotton Shawl Cardigan – $40. One of my New Year’s style resolutions is to wear more green; blue’s less-loved but almost equally versatile and diverse brother. This pick is a basic from Amazon’s “Goodthreads” brand, but with a ton of really positive reviews, it should serve you well. Want something a bit different but still perfect for this outfit? Try this very much on sale Lambswool bomber from J. Crew. The Pants: Banana Republic Rapid Movement Denim Athletic Fit – $70.80 when 40% off ($118). I have NEVER been the type of person to spend more than $40 for a pair of denim. Then, these happened. A true revelation. Just the right amount of stretch for even the most thunderous of thighs for the #LegDay crowd, and a smart taper that keeps things modern without being skin-tight. The Henley: J.Crew Double Knit Henley in Heather Stone –$26.99 ($59.50). J.Crew is a hot mess right now, but that shouldn’t stop you from scouring their site and stores for deals. Perhaps BECAUSE of the ongoing turmoil and desperation to recapture sales growth, mega discounting seems to be the new norm. The almighty Henley is one of the items J.Crew does consistently well, is often on sale, and adds more masculine complexity to this look than a humble T-shirt can. The Belt: GAP Basic Leather Belt in Brown – $28 ($40). Old faithful. I can’t think of a time this belt hasn’t served me well, from suit and tie to jeans and a sweater. Basics like this are ideal for building a wardrobe on a budget. The polished rectangle buckle adds some pop to an understated accessory, combined with genuine leather and lasting durability make it a winner. I’ve worn mine 3-4 times a week since 2016, and it’s still going strong. The Shoes: Adidas Stan Smith White/Blue- $80. Longtime fans of the Stan Smith will tell you the leather quality, comfort, and versatility are why the shoe has been popular for decades. Those same fans will tell you that these use to be much cheaper, but even at a full price of $80, you won’t regret owning a pair. The Watch: Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic Black Dial- $369. If a casual office setting is in your foreseeable future, this may be the only watch you ever need. Beloved by neophytes and watch snobs alike, the Hamilton Field Khaki Auto is built to take a beating and looks great in almost any setting. Buying a watch online for the first time? Take a look here at a rundown of your different options, and the pros and cons of each. The Socks: Express Solid Heel Stripe Socks – 4 for $25. Lighter colored socks with a nice striped pattern play well with the sneakers in this outfit, without going over the top with the print. Want to see some other style scenarios for a first day at work? Head here for the first day at a dressed up office. Then here for a smart casual place of work. About the Author: Jason P. is a Dappered devotee, having curated the majority of his wardrobe through the site. He is an enthusiast of wool sweaters, chino pants, and affordable automatic watches. In his free time, you can find him at his boxing gym or antiquing with his wife Style Scenario: First Day at Work – Laid Back published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Style Scenario: First Day at Work – Laid Back It’s safe to say that most of us, if not all, have probably had some experience with a button coming loose on a garment. Not only can it be embarrassing if it happens in front of others but it can also shorten the useful life of a garment. You could, of course, take the garment into a tailor to have the button reattached but a simple and cost-effective solution is just learning how to reattach a button yourself. What You Will Need…Sewing NeedleOf course, a sewing needle is going to be your main tool. Any type of basic needle will do but generally, the slimmer the needle you have, the better for this application. ThreadIn terms of thread, having about nine to twelve inches will be enough for most situations, however, if you want to double your thread over to make it stronger, doubling the amount of thread would also be necessary. Therefore, you’ll probably want about eighteen to twenty-four inches of thread in total. Ideally, you’re going to want to have a thread that matches the thread used on the garment but if you don’t have something in exactly the same color, it’s typically safe to just use a light colored thread for light garments and dark colored thread for dark ones. ButtonMost button-up shirts will have spare buttons on the inside of the bottom front of the shirt’s placket. Most jackets and outerwear will come with some spare buttons typically in a small plastic bag inside one of the pockets and many pairs of trousers will often have a spare button on the inside of the waistband. As another note, there are buttons with differing amounts of holes. The standard button will have four holes but you’ll also occasionally see buttons with two holes or even less commonly some other amount. The main methods we will be illustrating today concern four-holed buttons but they could apply to buttons with different amounts of holes as well. There are also certain types of buttons that have no holes whatsoever, these are referred to as shank buttons and they require a slightly different method of sewing. SpacerYou’re also going to want a small implement called a spacer to be placed on top of the button while sewing, this will leave a little bit of extra room between the button itself and the fabric. For your spacer, you could use another sewing needle, a matchstick, or any similarly sized tool. Some sewing kits will also come with a small metal rod that has two blunt ends, you can use this one without having to worry about poking yourself as you would if you were using a second needle. Cutting ToolYou’re also going to need a cutting tool, this could be a pair of scissors, a pocketknife, a seam ripper, or any other sharp-edged object. Fabric PencilA water-soluble marking pen, fabric pencil, or tailor’s chalk can also be helpful if you want to make a small mark on the fabric of your garment where the button is going to be located. ThimbleAn optional tool here is a thimble. If you’ve ever wondered what that monopoly piece is actually for, when you’re working with thick fabric, it can sometimes be a little painful to actually push the needle all the way through. As such, you can wear a thimble on the thumb or finger that primarily does the pushing. How To Sew On A Button EffectivelyRemove The Loose Button From The ShirtIf your button is loose but still hanging on, you should use your cutting tool to take away the thread that’s still keeping the button on the shirt. A seam ripper will work best for this but you can also use a different type of cutting tool, just make sure that you’re not damaging the fabric of the shirt itself. Next, just use your cutting tool or your fingers to remove any excess old thread that still happens to be hanging on to either the button or the garment. Thread Your Needle & Knot The End Of The ThreadAnother optional tool you might want to have handy is a little implement called a needle threader, these will come in some sewing kits and they make the process of threading a needle much easier. If you’re just working with single thread, just pass the thread through the needle and tie a couple of simple overhand knots to make sure things are secure. If you have doubled your thread over, you can create a knot by wrapping the thread around your forefinger several times, roll the loops that are created into a tight bundle with your thumb, then slip that bundle off of your finger. You can grip the bundled loops with one hand and tug the long end of the thread tight with the other hand, this should pull the loose bundle into a tight knot that you can work with. Create Your Anchor PointThis is the time to make a small mark on your fabric where the button will be located if you so choose but this is optional. To create your anchor, start by looking at the back side of the fabric, run the needle through from the back side to the front then move a short distance, the distance between holes on your button and run the thread back through from the front side to the back side. Repeat this process one more time perpendicular to the first small line of thread you created on the garment. This will create a small X where the button is going to be centered. The X is also the anchor for your thread to make sure that that doesn’t loosen up while you’re sewing. Position The ButtonPut your button on the anchor X point and begin sewing by pushing the needle from the back side through to the front side and through the hole of the button. You can place your spacer on top of the button and put the needle through the opposite hole in the button, back to the backside of the fabric. You can put a finger on the button to make sure that things are secure while you’re making your first few passes. Using the anchoring X on the fabric as a guide, you can alternate between sets of holes or you can do one set and then the other. You can make six passes in total; three for each set of holes on the button. When the button is secured, you can remove the spacer. Create The ShankOn your final pass from the backside to the front, come back up through the fabric but don’t go through one of the holes of the button. Turn the needle slightly and bring it out from underneath the button. Wrap your thread tightly around all of the threads beneath the button at least six times in total. You’ve now created a shank which will stand the button away from the fabric, this will make it easier to button your garment since the button won’t be sitting directly and tightly against the fabric. Pull to make sure things are secured here and then put the needle back through from the front side to the back side. Secure The ThreadWith both ends of your thread on the backside of the fabric, you can use your needle to make a small loop in one part of the thread. You can use the needle to guide the thread through that loop to create a knot or you can snip the thread off of the needle and just tie the knot with your fingers. Either way, it’s key to make sure that your knot is tight. For extra security, you can always add a few more knots just to make sure things aren’t going to come loose. Cut off the excess thread on the back side of the fabric when you’re done and your button is successfully reattached to your shirt. For Overcoats & Jackets:These directions can be used particularly effective on shirts and trousers but jackets and overcoats are going to require some different methods that will work a little bit better. Overcoat buttons can be sewn on in the exact same method as with shirts or trousers but sometimes, you’ll see this done with another smaller button sewn on simultaneously to the main button on the back side of the fabric. Metal buttons can also benefit from having a stay attached on the reverse, as metal buttons can be heavier or made from more valuable materials so you wouldn’t want to lose them. Also, to get metal buttons to stand up as straight as possible, you can use a waxed thread which is going to be a little bit more durable. Metal buttons are quite often shank buttons, we will cover how to sew on a shank button in a moment. Sewing Buttons On A Suit JacketSewing buttons on to a suit can be done in the same way that we’ve just outlined for shirts but it’s often done with a slightly different technique so that there’s no visible knotting on the backside of the fabric.
Shank ButtonsAs we said, a shank button differs from a standard button and then it doesn’t feature any buttonholes.
Armed with these simple sewing techniques, you should be able to attach or reattach buttons to your garments and prolong their usable life. What’s more, you won’t have to depend on a tailor in order to have this done. Are there tips with any of these methods that you think we missed today? Do you prefer a different sewing method altogether that we didn’t mention? If so, share with us in the comments below. How To Sew On A Button published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr How To Sew On A Button The Thursday Handfuls are great, but what if Monday (or Tuesday) rolls around and there are a few sales that can’t wait til the weekend? You’ll find three of the best, with a few picks from each, to start the week below. #1. Bonobos: Extra 50% off Final Sale Items w/ DONTQUIT
It ain’t over till it’s over, and it doesn’t appear to be over. I’m not seeing a ton of new additions to the sale section? But there’s still a surprisingly solid selection of sizes left for a bunch of the more tempting options that are in there (like their jetsetter or unconstructed blazers, stretch washed chinos, etc.) More picks here. #2. Massdrop: Seiko SKX Series – $179.99 FINALA solid price for a classic. 200m water resistance. Rubber strap is pretty comfortable. 42mm diameter should be just fine for most, while there’s a 37mm option this time around as well. Pepsi red/blue bezels as well as the standard black. Estimated ship dates is the end of February though. That’s Massdrop for you. #3. J. Crew: Nike Killshots are back in stock – $90All sizes available at post time too. Doesn’t seem like these are quite as limited a run this time as they have been in the past? Or has the market just been saturated (i.e. every #menswear nerd has a pair already)? And what does that mean for the popularity of the shoe if now EVERYONE can have one? Does that mean they just aren’t as cool anymore? Oh the humanity. Alternatives to the Killshot can be found here, if you are so inclined to wear something else. Also worth a mention…
Monday Sales Tripod – Bonobos Sale back to Extra Half Off, Classic Divers, & More published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Monday Sales Tripod – Bonobos Sale back to Extra Half Off, Classic Divers, & More Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Japanese boro cloth: Sri Threads, Brooklyn In recent years, Canada Goose was transitioned from a smaller brand focusing on functional wear to a very stylish brand that became extremely popular. As a consequence, their flagship jacket, which we are about to review, costs around $1000 and so we want to know, is it really worth that money? How does it compare to other well-known jackets such as Moncler? Canada Goose HistoryJust like many others, it started out as a very functional brand for outdoor gear. It was founded by the Polish immigrant Sam Tick in 1957. Interestingly, it was not named Canada Goose but Metro Sportswear. They started producing down jackets in the 1970s but they were primarily focused on jackets for rangers and the police. By 1985, they decided to produce jackets under their own brand which at the time was called Snow Goose, not Canada goose. At the time, they also manufactured private label jackets for companies like LL Bean or Eddie Bauer. They were growing slowly and in the early 90s, they expanded to Europe. Unfortunately, someone else was already using the term Snow Goose so they switched their branding to Canada goose. Even though they were forced to change the name, it proved beneficial because of the positive association with really cold Canadian climate. In 2001, Dani Reiss took over as a CEO from his father at Canada Goose. At the time, a lot of companies were still shifting production overseas but he said: “No, we’re gonna produce in Canada”. At the same time, he began pushing the products internationally and especially in Europe, people didn’t question the high price tag because they associated it was a luxury high-end product. Ironically, the brand Canada Goose flew pretty much under the radar up until about 2010. The brand undertook an aggressive product placement strategy using celebrities such as Daniel Craig. Of course, that was also reflected in their revenue. The company went from 18 million a year to a multiple of that, selling a 70% share for a quarter billion dollars in 2013. By then, Canada Goose had become so popular that model Kate Upton wore a jacket on a Sports Illustrated cover swimsuit edition. Today, Canada Goose continues to focus on quality and domestic Canadian production. The Canada Goose product lineup has steadily increased and now includes lighter weight jackets as well as pants and other outerwear things. Of course, with the popularity of the Canada Goose brand, also a lot of counterfeit jackets pop in the market just like with Moncler. They also use an authentication system making sure that if you pay top dollar, you get the real thing and not a knockoff. Just like Moncler, Canada Goose is now a status symbol and so we really want to look into it whether the jacket is actually functional and worth your money. What I’m Wearing…So I’m wearing the Canada Goose Emory slim fit parka jacket with a coyote trim. In terms of colors, they are less flashy than Moncler and I chose an olive green. Genuine Coyote Fur TrimThe first thing that distinguishes the jacket visually from the Moncler one is the genuine coyote fur trim. Canada Goose claims that it has a functional purpose in the sense that it creates more turbulent air around your face thus preventing frostbite more than a jacket without the trim. The company claims that the coyote fur is ethically sourced and trapped in Canada. Now, trapping is always difficult and painful for the animals so I know a few people who would question that claim. Matte MaterialThe next thing that stands out is the material. It is matte and it’s a lot thicker than the Moncler jacket. Also and I find it quite unpleasant, it makes a lot of noise when you walk! The material is made out of 85% polyester and 15% cotton, it’s water-resistant, durable, and hard-wearing, as well as wind resistant. It’s not quite gore-tex membrane material but it’s definitely thick and much stiffer than what you get from Moncler. That being said, nylon is typically a higher-end artificial fiber and polyester. In my opinion, the stiffness of the fabric is directly felt to the entire jacket and other people would have compared the jacket to wearing that x-ray vest at the dentist’s office. Ribbed CuffsThe ribbed cuffs are quite useful because they prevent cold air from coming in. Pockets & ZippersThe jacket features an abundance of pockets, has lots of Zamak metal snap buttons that are plastic covered. Of course, all branded. The zipper is an injection molded plastic from YKK, ironically, it’s the same one used at the Moncler Jackets. For some reason though, I find it a lot harder to close. So for a jacket that retails for $1,000, I would’ve expected a higher-end zipper made out of machined metal and not just an average YKK product that I can get on Amazon for about 6 bucks. Duck Down FeathersEven though the brand is called Canada Goose, the actual filling of this jacket consists of duck down feathers which are inferior to goose down. So what’s the difference between goose down and duck down? Well, goose down comes in larger clusters, usually traps the air better which means you get a higher fill power and more insulating with a goose than duck. Because this jacket uses duck down, it’s not surprising that there’s a fill power of 625. Again, low-end fill power would be 300, high-end fill power would be 900. So this jacket sits right somewhere in the middle. It consists of 80% down and 20% feathers which is not as good as the Moncler jacket which is 90% goose down and 10% feathers but both are not as good as other jackets in the market that have 93% goose down. Thermal Experience IndexUnlike Moncler, Canada goose has warmth grading method which is called TEI or thermal experience index. That will help you to find a jacket that is best suited for your needs and your environment and the level of coolness you experience. Is The Canada Goose Emory Jacket Worth It?PROS
CONS
CONCLUSIONIn terms of value, one could argue that Canada Goose is better because it has more details it’s more functional and will likely wear longer than the Moncler jacket. That being said, the increased weight, the stiffness of the fabric in combination with a pain in the ass zipper, I don’t think $995 is a good value for this parka. What’s your take on Canada Goose Jackets? Drop a comment below!Canada Goose Jackets – Is It Worth It? published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Canada Goose Jackets – Is It Worth It? It’s Friday. Looking for something to switch up your weekend, or to give you an excuse to relax a little? That’s what the Weekend Reset is for. Each week contributor Tim Johnstone pulls together five things to get your weekend started. Could be something to read or watch, something to eat or listen to, or even something to do. Enjoy the weekend fellas. READ: The Internet of all things is fake, mostly.But you probably already guessed that? This explains how this comes to be. And it is as depressing as you might imagine. We are nearing the point where there are more bots than actual people on the web and that is where things like Skynet catch up with us. Fascinating (and depressing) stuff. Anytime I hear about how many streams a band has, or video views, I understand that those numbers are mostly meaningless. It’s all about cheating money out of people. WATCH: Because sometimes Jenga just isn’t enough fun…First things first: I am still catching up on movies released last year. And occasionally I end up watching something with friends I had skipped for whatever reason. Game Night is one of those movies. It had surfaced on streaming services recently and I finally got around to watching it the other night. I ended up watching it again the next day. If you have ever done game nights with your crew then this is immediately relatable. Until it isn’t. This is a clever, funny, fast paced movie that really works because the acting ensemble shines (Jason Bateman and Rachel McAdams are so good here) and the characters are genuine. And yes, sometimes you will have to rewind things just to catch lines that you missed. It’s worth it. EAT: An overnight one-pot chicken to eat off all week.Yes, there is the multi-paragraph origin tale before you get to the helpful parts. And yes, you are looking at a picture of how you should plan meals around said chicken. Ultimately, it is literally a bird in a pot. Nonetheless, for myself, this is kind of a game changer. It makes it easier to get more out of the chicken, especially if you need protein for the week ahead. There’s that. And the fact that you get a broth out of the whole deal is kind of a big deal. CREATE: Yeah, you can. This suggests you should.I have no doubt that this isn’t the sort of thing that will resonate with everyone. But, for many of you it might spark a change you’ve been thinking about or looking for. If nothing else, it serves as a reminder about the importance of art in our civilization. LISTEN: This is not your grandfather’s Beck. I’ve had this on repeat for a couple days now. This is not “Loser” Beck. It’s not “Up All Night” Beck. Or “Lost Cause” Beck. It’s a cover of an obscure 1982 b-side that would find a bigger audience via This Mortal Coil. And by bigger audience, I mean artsy introverted liberal arts majors who bought anything that came out on the 4AD record label. The This Mortal Coil version (which Beck pretty much replicates) remains one of my favorite songs from that era for reasons which are impossible for me to convey. It’s all hormones and melancholy. This song has been released as part of an upcoming collection of songs inspired by the Oscar nominated movie Roma, which is on Netflix. Tim Johnstone is Dappered’s music correspondent as well as our resident gatherer of all things interwebs related. He’s currently chasing his spirit animal. The Weekend Reset: A great food hack, a new Beck track and why the internet is wack. published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr The Weekend Reset: A great food hack, a new Beck track and why the internet is wack. Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream |
FashionPassion
I lived my life in Europe and now a global citizen in fashion. I have attended the American University in Texas and hold master degree in Media & Communications. I have also spent 4 years of formal training in clothing and fashion. I love travelling around the world and being in different artistic environments has helped me discover more and more about my passions which is fashion. Personal Links |