Dress shoes, structurally, may be the most complex thing you wear every day. In this article, we’ll break down the component parts of a pair of shoes so you can shoe shop like an expert. Recently on The Gentleman’s Gazette, we’ve discussed the stylistic features that make up a suit and a pair of pants. Continuing further from head to toe, we end up with shoes. When we buy them, we usually choose them first for the style and fit, but rarely for their individual construction. It’s worth a look at the individual parts of a dress shoe so you can be a smart shopper. ![]() The Anatomy of a Dress Shoe![]() In the broadest sense, a shoe is divided into two main parts, the upper, which is everything on top of your foot plus the lining, and the sole, which makes up the underside. Let’s start by taking a look at the upper, the more visible part of the shoe, moving from front to back. ![]() The ToeThe upper is made by stretching leather over a last, a carved form usually made of wood, and leaving it there for some time so that it molds to its shape. ![]() It is eventually secured to the sole with either glue or nails. At the very front of the upper, we have the toe, which can either be simple or embellished, perhaps with a medallion. ![]() This is a pattern made up of perforations in the leather, which makes it somewhat more casual, an unadorned toe being more formal than one with ornamentation. Toe shape on a shoe can vary, and whether it is rounded, almond shaped, or chiseled, plays an important role in the appearance and visual impression of the shoe as well as how comfortably it fits. The VampDirectly behind the toe is the vamp. This is the area that flexes when you walk and is thus subject to creasing. You never want to apply polish, especially wax polish, to the vamp, as it will dry there and crack when the shoe creases, creating a cloudy and caked appearance. Though some creasing of the vamp is inevitable simply by virtue of the way your foot flexes, it can be minimized by buying shoes made of quality leather and then by storing them with shoe trees to keep the vamp stretched out. ![]() The vamp is the area where the shoe creases most The QuartersAfter this come the quarters. The quarters include everything on the upper, including where the laces are up to where the leather wraps around the back of the heel; in essence, the quarters are the sides and back of the shoe. The nature of the quarters is what determines the difference between a derby and an oxford lace-up shoe. ![]() On the former, the quarters are stitched over the vamp, creating two flaps that are then tied together with laces; on the latter, you have the opposite, with the vamp stitched over the quarters. This makes for a cleaner, and therefore more formal, look since there aren’t any top flaps of leather. When tying a derby, there will always be some gapping between the flaps, which is referred to as an open lacing system. ![]() On the other hand, the gap on an oxford is minimal, which is why it is referred to as having a closed lacing system. ![]() The laces themselves are threaded through eyelets, usually five pairs, sometimes four, which are punched through the area known as the facing of the shoe. Beneath the facing, you’ll find the tongue, a piece of leather that looks like its anatomical namesake. We don’t usually think of the tongue of having a specific purpose–it’s just “there”–but it’s actually designed to protect the top of your foot from the pressure of the laces. ![]() At the back of the shoe is the topline, which is the top edge of the hole into which you put your foot. At the heel, the topline is supported internally by additional leather reinforcement known as the heel counter. ![]() Protecting the heel counter is the reason why you should always use a shoehorn when putting on and taking off dress shoes: jamming your heel against the topline as you force your foot down into the shoe will cause the leather there to buckle and collapse. This can leave permanent wrinkles or deform the area, ruining the fit. ![]() The InsoleInside the shoe you have the insole, which in a dress shoe should be made of soft leather. The insole provides comfortable, smooth padding for your foot to rest upon. ![]() This footbed contrasts the hard outsole–the lowest part of the shoe–which touches the ground. Between the insole and outsole is the midsole, which can be made up of cork, for cushioning. ![]() Also under the instep of your foot, manufacturers may place a shank–a thin rectangular strip of metal, wood, or fiberglass–that helps to support the foot. The choice of shank material, and whether to use one at all, depends on the brand. For instance, according to a Reddit survey, Crockett & Jones uses wood, Meermin uses steel, and Allen Edmonds doesn’t use anything at all. The WeltForming the transition between the upper and the outsole is the welt. This is a thin strip of leather that protrudes around the edge of the outsole to which the upper is secured. ![]() Connoisseurs of footwear will know that the two ways to do this are with a Goodyear welt or Blake stitching. Goodyear welted shoes, named for a machine originally manufactured by Goodyear, are more expensive because of the way the outsole is attached to the upper, which involves a more complex double-stitch approach. Because of this, they can be resoled fairly easily by a cobbler. ![]() The Blake method, on the other hand, involves a simpler stitching method where the insole, upper and outsole are joined together with a single stitch that, while simple to create is difficult to repair. ![]() Because it is made completely inside the structure of the shoe with a machine, resoling the shoe is difficult if your cobbler doesn’t possess said machine. And, even then, it is a more laborious and potentially more costly process. For this reason, and because the complexity of Goodyear welting is also matched with other higher quality features, a Goodyear welted shoe is usually worth the investment. ![]() The SoleThe outsole is the lowermost part of the shoe and has to satisfy the double demands of supporting the full weight of the wearer and standing up to the friction of walking on the ground. In a dress shoe, the outsole is commonly made of leather, which is the most elegant, but Dainite (rubber) is also a popular option for those who want more grip and greater water resistance. The thickness of the leather can vary, with multiple layers of outsole appearing in chunkier country derby shoes like those made by Tricker’s or Church’s in the UK. These may be referred to as “double leather” soles. ![]() With an outsole made of leather there are more opportunities for various structural details that add to its elegance and craftsmanship. One example is a beveled or fiddleback waist. ![]() This used to be seen only on bespoke shoes, but newer technologies have made it accessible in ready-to-wear models. The waist is the narrowest part of the sole, located between the heel and the ball of the foot, directly below the arch of your foot, just as the waist is the narrowest part of the torso in an ideal physique. Beveling the waist shaves down the leather there and gives it a sharp chiseled appearance. The fiddlehead waist occurs when a beveled waist is extended into a V shape toward the direction of the toe. ![]() Finally, we have the heel at the bottom rear of the shoe. Like the outsole, the heel can be built up with individual layers of leather or rubber, and sometimes a combination of both. Rubber is usually reserved for the back edge of the heel, as shown in the Gaziano & Girling image above to provide a measure of grip. A high-quality dress shoe will usually join the rubber to the leather with a dovetailed joint. An additional touch that you may find on the heel is known as the gentleman’s notch or gentleman’s corner. ![]() This is a notch sliced from the inside front corner of the heel that was originally designed to keep the wearer’s trouser hem from catching on the heel in the course of raising and lowering his legs while walking. This would really only happen with very wide legged pant more common during the Golden Age of menswear, so it’s really a vestige of the past than something with an actual purpose now; however, it’s a nod to tradition and a sign of an attention to detail. ConclusionShoes are described as being constructed, and true to that term, they are really built of many component parts that come together to make a coherent whole. Usually, we choose shoes based on how they look and how they fit, which are important considerations, rather than for the individual structural features. However, developing an eye for everything that goes into a shoe helps you assess the quality and workmanship. What parts of the shoe are most important to you? Tell us in the comments.Anatomy of a Dress Shoe published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Anatomy of a Dress Shoe
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Far too many of us have a suit, or suits, that don’t get used much. It’s probably because something was on sale and we thought we’d wear it more often than we actually do. The solution? Prioritize. Here’s what to buy first, and what to hold off on until later when assembling a suit collection. Not everyone needs all of these. Heck, not everyone “needs” more than one or two of these (if that, in our increasingly casual culture). But if you want to buy a suit, or two, or three, here’s the order to buy them in, starting from the ground up. #1. The Plain Charcoal Wool Suit
Plenty would favor a navy suit as your first suit, but the argument here is that charcoal looks more appropriate at a funeral. It’s also more sober/conservative for job interviews. Make it a two button, notch lapel. If your job requires you to wear a suit daily, you’ll want more than one of these. #2. The Plain Navy Wool Suit
Again, many would opt for a navy suit over charcoal for their FIRST suit, and that’s fine if that’s what you choose. But we’re putting it second due to the funeral factor (and let’s hope that doesn’t become a factor). #3. The Light Gray / Tropical Wool Suit
You’re looking for something you can wear to a summer wedding, but the fabric makes it noticeably more dressed up than seersucker or linen. Also, you can wear these in fall and winter to add a bit of brightness to an otherwise cold and dark wardrobe. Look for lighter weight, not just lighter in color. Also look for less lining. Still favor a notch lapel and two button jacket. #4. The Subtle Pattern Wool Suit
Slow your roll Sparky. We’re not talking fat chalk stripes or massively contrasting plaids here. Something subtle. Say, a blue on navy plaid. Or a fine pin stripe. A dark charcoal base with a white pinstripe could make you look like you stepped out of a Dick Tracy comic. Less can be more. Especially when it comes to suit patterns. #5. The Lightweight Cotton or Linen Summer Suit
For when it’s unbearably hot. Don’t worry about the wrinkles. Fabric that’s super light and breezy is supposed to wrinkle. It’s expected, and part of the charm. Favor linen and seersucker suits over chino. Some chino suits can lean a little dense, and thus, won’t breathe nearly as well. #6. The Wool Tuxedo
There are very few places to rent a good looking, decent fitting tux. (Here’s one.) This is pretty far down the list because most guys these days don’t have black tie events to go to until later in life… if at all. Ever. But if you’re getting married or attending a big event and want to look your absolute best? Buy a tux. Have it tailored. It’ll be a great investment. Even if it’s an inexpensive tux, a little tailoring can go a long way. Peak lapel is timeless. Shawl is a bit more dashing. And finding a tux for cheap can be a tough ask. Retailers assume you’ve got cash, being that you’re shopping for a black tie event. #7. The Tweed or Flannel Winter Suit
The thick, wintry stuff, for when it’s unbearably cold. Some people live in climates that’ll never necessitate a suit like this. Those who do live in climates with a real winter can usually get by with their normal suits, good layering, and solid outerwear. But hey, there is just something about a flannel suit on a super cold day. This post originally ran in 2017, but has since been updated with current product suggestions. The Men’s Suit Purchase Priority List published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr The Men’s Suit Purchase Priority List ![]() Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Spier & Mackay Goodyear Welted Shoes – $178 – $248 ($248 – $298)Made in Portugal with solid quality leather. Ships and returns for free if they’re your first shoe, sportcoat, or suit purchase. Goodyear welted. Contemporary but not trendy designs. Not bad for $250, let alone under $180 if you get one of their base leather models. Top two rows = $178. Base of the pyramid medallion toes are $248. The less expensive line is made from leathers sourced from Portugal and Italy. The more expensive line uses Box Calf from the German supplier Weinheimer. Yes, the more expensive line was going for less immediately after Christmas. But the base leather models were going for more. And $178 for Goodyear welted cap toe or wingtip oxfords seems pretty good. Especially as materials costs and labor costs have been going up in recent years across the board. Full review here. Sizes are scattered, but there seems to be a good amount of regular sizes still left, depending on the model and color that you’re after. But that stock selection could change quickly. Spier sent out an email blast this morning letting people know they’re dumped this first run of shoes into their sale section. That’s all. Carry on. Steal Alert: Spier’s Goodyear Welted made in Portugal Shoes are on Sale published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Steal Alert: Spier’s Goodyear Welted made in Portugal Shoes are on Sale Nordstrom Zack Sneaker – $99.95About the Author: Stephen Knight is a photographer / videographer who founded Itsaknightslife. His mission is to tell the story of people through style, food, music, and dancing. Catch his stuff at itsaknightslife on Instagram and Youtube. One of the items in our closet that can get ignored are sneakers. We get dazzled by the loafers, the wingtips, the boat shoes (not really the boat shoes), but often forget that a good sneaker is essential to a man’s closet. But are these the ones you’ll reach for when it’s time to dress down a bit? I’ve seen some sneakers running into the $200-$400 range, which is still hard to wrap my head around. So comparatively, these might look like a bargain. And it’s Nordstrom. Nordstrom rarely misses on a product. But I have to say, these aren’t as impressive as I was hoping they’d be. Yes, they look good. The mostly off-white leather uppers up against the white soles and tan leather accents are right in the wheelhouse when it comes to versatility. These sneakers should be able to match with most things in the closet. They’re not a true, bright white, but these could fill that role despite leaning a little more to the cream side of things. The outside leather of the shoe feels well made and oddly soft to the touch, and feels like it can handle everyday wear for a while. But the inside of the shoe… felt strangely stiff. Like really stiff. The foot-bed, although claimed as cushioned, felt tough as well. I wore my chuck tailors on my right foot, and these on my left, and could tell the difference in cushioning. The chucks felt more cushioned, which is ironic because chucks are known for not having the most cushion. Maybe this would change with a few wears and breaking in, but it was something I noticed right away. If you have wide feet, feel free to stop reading and look for another shoe. This one is narrow. Mix that in with the lack of cushioning and the stiff feeling of the shoe, and these are gonna be a miss for many. Yes, the shoe feels substantial on your feet, which is a good thing. They don’t feel cheaply made, but for the brief time I tested these, I admittedly couldn’t wait to put back on my converse. Now the insoles are removable, so you could feasibly remove it and put in a more comfortable solution, but… do you really want to start doing that with brand new sneakers? As a day to day Chuck wearer (I have their leather version of the chucks II as well as the classics), these felt noticeably less comfortable out of the box. For $99, these aren’t as spendy as the luxury brands, but I think most would expect at least some comfort. And these just didn’t have that. At least shipping and returns are free. In Review: Nordstrom Men’s Shop Zack Leather Sneaker published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr In Review: Nordstrom Men’s Shop Zack Leather Sneaker From high end brands to bargain big box stores, seemingly everyone is jumping on the knit sportcoat wagon. And when executed well, these things are hugely versatile. They aren’t your average, tightly woven sportcoat. Instead, they’re somewhat of a mid-point between a sweater and a blazer, or a sweatshirt and a blazer, or a… you get the idea. Polished enough to wear with an OCBD and chinos, or dress it down with a t-shirt or henley and jeans. They are absurdly comfortable, modern without being overly trendy, and sure to become a favorite for many of you. Here’s the best of the best available now. Banana Republic Slim Motion-Stretch Blazer – $118.80 when 40% off ($198)Supremely comfortable and super flexible. Lightweight, 53% cotton, 47% polyester material that’s casual, but not frumpy. Quarter lined in the back. Patch pockets keep it casual. Center vent in the rear. Size shown is a 42R. Also available in dark charcoal. Bonobos Italian Cotton Knit Sportcoats – $280 w/ ECLIPSE20 ($350)Probably the most true-sportcoat looking of the bunch in terms of the proportions and the length of the tail. Nice lapel width and great overall drape. All cotton here. Size shown above is a 42R. Also available in a light gray as well as a charcoal. Banana Republic Itailan Wool Knit Sportcoat in Burgundy or Gray – $249.99 – $298One of the best affordable menswear items (not just knit sportcoats) on the market today. I was a little concerned about this jacket being ventless, but despite not having a vent in the rear, it’s absurdly comfortable. 80% wool and 20% nylon. Size shown above is a 42R. Burgundy is on sale and has been going for relatively cheap with the stacking discounts that BR runs post holidays. The gray should go for around $180 with a 40% off code. Goodman Brand Soft Cotton Sportcoats in Gray or Blue – $148.98 ($298)Obviously these are more than a bit on the “chopped” side, but still, they’ll find plenty of fans. Wears a little more like a cardigan, and looks great with henleys and t-shirts and sneakers. All cotton here. Was going for closer to $180 during the half yearly sale, and now? Half off. Made in Italy Brooks Bros Wool/Cotton Knit Sportcoat – $349 ($698)On the high end of the price range, but extremely nice. And has been going for lower with their post-holiday markdowns and deals. Wears a bit more like a true sportcoat, and less like a knit. I don’t know what the one reviewer on the Brooks Brothers site is talking about. It’s a little trimmer, but a 41R in the Regent Fit fits me great (and I do usually wear a 41R in their Regent fit). It MIGHT be a little slimmer in the arms, but it is NOT two sizes too small. Maybe he got something that was mis-labeled. Anyway, really nice sportcoat. Looking for something blue? Try this. I’m thinking it’s basically the same thing… only blue. And plaid. Flynt Regular Fit Knit Wool Blend Sport Coat in Port or Blue – $318.75 ($425)Somewhat similar to BR’s outstanding Italian wool knit sportcoat. 55% wool / 45% poly here. Ships and returns for free since it’s Nordstrom. Target Goodfellow & Co. Standard Fit Knit Blazer – $49.99A 60% Cotton / 40% Polyester knit that feels a bit like a sweatshirt, but more like a refined sweatshirt. Size shown is a large on 5’10” / 195, and it’s a touch big. Yet I feel like a medium would be too small. If it fits you decent enough off the rack? It’s a big time winner. Also available in blue and a deep charcoal. North & Mark Union Blazer – $147 ($245)On mega sale because its just about sold out. A tech blazer that’s also knit. Nylon/poly/cotton blend will keep you dry, stain-free, and comfy thanks to 4 way stretch. Just size small left at post time. The Splurge: Suitsupply Wool/Cotton Camel DB Jacket – $399You know knit sportcoats have become a thing when Suitsupply is selling a four hundred dollar, camel colored, double breasted, peak lapel option. That’s a lottttttta fancy menswear stuff happening all in one garment. And if you’re the type who isn’t sure he can pull off a double breasted jacket (I’m one of those types too…) fear not. It’s a heck of a lot easier with such little structure. It’ll feel more like a cardigan sweater than it will a sportcoat. Big thanks to Brandon D. for the tip here. Sold Out but Not Forgotten: Good Man Brand Wool Blend Knit Blazer in Navy or Black – $198.90 ($398)Huge fan of these things. Was going for $265 during the Anniversary Sale, and ended up being half off during further markdowns in the Nordstrom sale section. Feels great. Moves great. Yes, the tails are on the chopped side, but that doesn’t look too awkward for this style. Super comfortable. Size shown above is a large in the black option. Got a tip on a knit sportcoat that didn’t make our list? Send those to: [email protected]. The Best Knit Sportcoats for Men – All Hail the Swazer! published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr The Best Knit Sportcoats for Men – All Hail the Swazer! What are you going to wear? Sometimes it’s good to look at a few suggestions then add your own tweaks and ideas. That’s what these are for. It’s cold. It’s dank. The sun hasn’t shown itself in some parts of the Northern Hemisphere for what feels like forever. What better time to inject a little bit of subtle color into your look? We’ll get through this together. The Bomber: Todd Snyder + Champion Buffalo Check Bomber – $143.20 w/ EXTRA20SALE ($298). A bold addition to the wardrobe that can act either as outerwear, or, as an extra sweater/sportcoat like layer (as is the case here). The Hat: Made in the USA Stowe Vermont Ski Hat – $46 ($58). Retro good looks and color. Made in Maine. Worsted wool. The Henley: Bonobos Merino Henley – $78 FINAL ($118). Was just down to $46.80 during their most recent extra 40% off sale items code. So, it might be worth sitting tight and waiting for another to come along. Sure, it’s gray and therefor not technically “colorful,” but that mix of dark and light makes it stand out all the same. The Coat: Target Goodfellow & Co Wool Blend Topcoat – $79.99. Lots of class on a budget. One of the best of the bunch from this season. 64% wool, 31% poly, 5% “other” makes up the caramel colored fabric. The Shoes: Astorflex Bitflex Chelseas – $147.98 ($185). Made in Italy, year-round goodness, now on sale. If you’re worried about water and muck attacking the lighter uppers, try some waterproof spray. Also, stay out of the puddles. The Bag: Banana Republic Large Tote in Bright Blue – $35.70 when 40% off ($59.50). They aren’t kidding. These things are spacious. Perfect for a grocery store run or hauling stuff into the gym or a trip to the beach… remember the beach? The Belt: UNIQLO Stretch Belt in Dark Gray – $19.90. Who said a black belt and tan shoes won’t go together? Just make sure it’s a preppy, sporty type of belt like this one. The Jeans: Old Navy Slim 24/7 Built-In Flex Blue Black Jeans – $49.99. Dark, inexpensive (when on sale) jeans in a slim fit. 99% cotton and 1% spandex. The Watch: Timex Expedition Scout 43 – $41.86. Suede strap, blue dial, and silver tone brass case. Style Scenario: Adding Color & Avoiding the Winter Doldrums published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Style Scenario: Adding Color & Avoiding the Winter Doldrums J. Crew Oar Stripe Chelsea Boot – $149* – $298Editor’s Note: These are all but sold out at post time, but they were seemingly popular enough that I wouldn’t be surprised if J. Crew does a re-stock. *Prices ranged from $149 during their 50% off Black Friday / Cyber Monday Sales, to full retail at $298. Since it’s J. Crew, I’m guessing most of you know that almost nobody pays full retail. BackgroundI strive to make my clothes as versatile as possible, which is why I really love Chelsea boots. A pair in black calf look killer with a well-tailored suit or black skinny jeans. Switch those out for a pair in chocolate suede and they add some texture and depth to pair well with raw denim and flannel shirts. With this flexibility in mind, I jumped at the chance to try this pair from J.Crew in their warm “burnished sienna” shade of smooth brown leather. Details
Ordering/DeliveryThis pair was originally ordered in mid-November when they were on sale for 35% off (~$193), but they were on backorder due to their popularity. The estimated ship date was about three weeks later and J.Crew delivered right on time. A+ for purchasing and supply chain integration! PackagingArriving in the standard dark grey J.Crew boot box, your new kicks come with a nice pair of cotton flannel-like shoe bags. The box itself was pretty beat up, but this really only matters if you’re a box nerd. Nothing else to write home about in here. Smells a bit like paint thinner, though. First Impressions / Build QualityAfter removing the boots from the box, my initial excitement quickly turned to disappointment. Behold, um…. ehhhhh. Starting with the left boot, there’s a minimal amount of wrinkly loose grain around the vamp and toe – nothing worthy of a return, but it’s noticeable. There’s a faint amount of “tiger striping” down the vamp, too. Across the toe there are a few spots where the dye bubbled up, evidently because it didn’t penetrate deep enough. Along the left side of the shaft, directly behind the elastic gore, there is a very noticeable spot the approximate size of a postage stamp where the dye was wiped off or someone tried to clean up an imperfection in the leather. The right boot has more of the same with more noticeable wrinkly loose grain, tiger striping, and spots where “burnished sienna” brown dye should be. Spot on left boot behind the gore panel is tough to miss. To try and quell my fears about J.Crew’s declining quality control, I ventured to my local brick and mortar store to see if the pair I received was an outlier or if other pairs had similar issues. To my dismay, the two other pairs in store (one in brown and one in sienna) had the same exact issues my pair did. Wrinkly loose grain leather, tiger striping, and a spotty dye job. Uninspiring. Wrinkly. Quite wrinkly. The outer leather itself is rather thin and feels quite cheap when compared against thicker hides from competitors like Frye, To Boot New York, and (my favorite) R.M. Williams. This thinness is repeated on the inside with an equally thin pigskin lining and non-removable insole. To give you a reference point, each layer is less than the thickness of a plastic credit card. There’s practically no cushioning here, so I’d wager the break-in on this pair is going to suck. Of the five reviews posted to J.Crew, only Joshua’s mentions comfort: “The break in period is rough but afterwards they are relatively comfortable.” I’ll take his word for it as comfort is subjective. Nice gore panels with a reinforced top edge. On a positive note, the elastic gore panels feel rather beefy and have a reinforced top edge. This means they should retain their shape for many future wears. The “Oar Stripe” fabric pull tabs are bar-tacked in place and shouldn’t rip out when you’re pulling these on before rushing out of the door in the morning. The slip-resistant rubber sole is noticeably thick and has a nice grid pattern to it for added grip. It’s not a lug sole, even though J.Crew calls it one, so I wouldn’t suggest you wear these in slick or treacherous conditions. J.Crew does not currently offer Goodyear welted resoling services, so an exact replacement would be nigh impossible. Slim, slip resistant rubber sole. The actual Goodyear welt stitching holding everything together is pretty flawless, which flat out shocks me. The $600 Alden boots I’m currently wearing have more stitching issues than these J.Crew Oar Stripe Chelseas do. Fit and SizingJ.Crew doesn’t disclose what last/form that these boots are crafted around, but they fit very similar to other J.Crew shoes I’ve purchased in the past. I’ve dubbed it the Ludlow last, as I’m pretty sure it’s also used in their Ludlow line of boots and shoes. This last has a generous forefoot with a rounded toe and tapered heel. It feels very similar to the Allen Edmonds 65 and 511 lasts. Really nice Goodyear Welt stitching. Sizing down to a 10 US (UK 9, EU 44) gave me the best fit out of the box. They fit very well with no noticeable heel slip or pinching. I would recommend sizing down a half size from Brannock. For reference, I am a 10.5 D/E on a Brannock device and usually take a 10D in most dress shoes, including Alden’s Barrie last. I take a 10.5E in Allen Edmonds 65 last, as that last runs narrow and I have slightly high arches. I also take an 11 in most Adidas or Nike sneakers. Final ThoughtsBased on my personal experiences and expectations at this price point, I cannot recommend the J.Crew Oar Stripe Chelsea boots unless you can snag a pair on deep discount and feel like rolling the dice. Luckily J.Crew now offers free basic outbound shipping on all orders, but be prepared for a $7.50 return by mail fee should you not be satisfied. Personally, I have had good experiences with J.Crew’s customer support team in refunding the shipping fees, too, if there’s a problem with the actual item in question. Your mileage may vary. If you’re in the market for a pair of high quality Chelsea boots, my recommendation always goes to R.M. Williams. Yes, they’re expensive. But their fit, comfort, materials, construction, and quality control are second to none. About the Author: Adam Terry is a thirtysomething Technical Trainer in the heating and manufacturing industry. He enjoys bourbon, boots, raw selvedge denim, and working on maintaining his dad bod. In Review: The J. Crew Oar Stripe Chelsea Boot published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr In Review: The J. Crew Oar Stripe Chelsea Boot Iâm a big believer in being myself but sometimes, it can really help to get through life more easily and to get what you want if you adapt in a certain way so you become more likeable. So first of all, whatâs a likeable person and what are their traits? Likeable people are often considered down-to-earth, open, authentic, interested, self-deprecating, trustworthy, and a bunch of other things. Usually, theyâre warm and emotionally stable people that others want to be around. So are you a likeable person? The first thing to consider is that if you think about this question, youâre probably too hard on yourself. Four university studies found that people often underestimated how much their conversation partner liked them. So youâre probably already more likeable than you think you are, however, there is always room for improvement. 11 Easy Ways To Become More Likeable![]() 1.Be Yourself!I know itâs a super cliche answer but sometimes, the person you want to be doesnât line up with the person you actually are. The perfect example is social media; the way people portray themselves on Instagram or in Facebook rarely matches the real-life circumstances. We spend a lot of time and energy trying to get people to like who you want to be rather than who you actually are, you may come off as insecure and unreal. Often, people can sense this and they want to know the real genuine authentic you, not the idealized version. So let them see the real you even though at times that might seem embarrassing, it really helps to increase your likability because people can relate better with you and they donât put you on a pedestal that is just an ideal of everything that they canât have because obviously, they know about the things that are not perfect in their own lives and they like to see it in others. ![]() 2. Learn Great Conversation StartersOther people will be relieved that they donât have to start the conversation. Those could be things like âDid you choose your profession or did your professions choose you?â or maybe âWhat makes you laugh the most?â. Having a few good starter questions ready every time before you attend a social event will make you more secure and you will probably end up having more good conversations. It will also avoid awkward moments and people will thank you for it because they know when they talk to you, itâs never embarrassing or strange. ![]() 3. Give Out ComplimentsMost people think a lot more about themselves than others do think about them. So they may put a lot of effort into a hairstyle, their outfits, or the way they dress but others wonât even notice it. So by picking up on something that is special about a person and by complimenting them on it makes you instantly more likeable. Why? Well, you actually stand out from the crowd because you noticed something others donât and it flatters the other person and honestly, who doesnât want to be flattered? That being said, itâs best not to comment on body parts or ideally, things that people canât change anything about. Instead, compliment them on something they do or they did. ![]() 4. Accept Compliments GracefullyOften, when people are complimented, they donât know how to respond. They try to diminish the compliment. Instead, you should accept it gracefully. What does it mean specifically? All you need to do is to say thank you and smile. ![]() 5. Show Some Self-Deprecating HumorThe perfect way to utilize humor to become more likeable without distancing others is to use self-deprecating humor. So what does it mean? Just make fun about yourself. That means, maybe share weird things about you or share a time when you look like a loser or when you did something that looks really stupid. I know it seems weird and hard but by doing that and getting other people to laugh about it, they will instantly like you more. Another good way to add self-deprecating humor is to compare yourself to others so you can say âOh wow youâre just twenty-two when youâre running your own business; when I was 22, my mom did my laundry for meâ. That way, you put yourself in a light that lets others shine and that makes you instantly more likeable even though you may feel like you look like a loser. In my opinion, a master of self-deprecating humor is Ellen DeGeneres. She utilizes this technique all the time in her show and people love her so next time you watch that show, pay attention to it and you will see how she utilizes it to become instantly more likeable. ![]() 6. Listen!So far, we all talked about active steps you can take but one of the easiest way to become more likeable is to really in genuinely listen to what other people say. No, if youâre just waiting for the other person to finish before you can give your reply, youâre not actively listening. Actively listening means that you comprehend what theyâre saying that you repeat what theyâre saying and that you later follow up with a question pertaining to it so they really know that you listened and also cared. So always try to paraphrase what people said in a quick way without going into too much detail. You can also have follow-up questions that show that you comprehended what was said and you just keep the conversation going. In general, people like to feel like theyâre heard and understood and by actively listening, you achieve exactly that. An even bigger step is not just to listen but to act on what someone just said. ![]() 7. Ask QuestionsIt goes slightly into the same vein as the active listening but more questions keep a conversation going and the more smart questions you ask, the more understood and heard the other person feels and the more they feel taken care of and comfortable in your presence. ![]() 8. Be VulnerableMost people engage in small talk but small talk doesnât allow you to really be vulnerable and itâs not well-suited to get to know someone. Mostly, itâs just tedious and boring and frankly, it can be much harder than having a genuine conversation about things that actually mean something to people. So try to stop yourself from engaging in small talk and get real. That means you can be a leader in a conversation who dives deeper first without waiting for the other person to expose themselves or show a vulnerability. Of course, this has to be a gradual process. If you tell people about your financial problems the first time they meet you, they think of you as being weird. So a good starter question that I always use is âWhat do you do when you donât work?â. Most people have the impulse to tell me what their job is because thatâs what they usually hear but then it usually takes a second for them to realize Iâm actually asking about their passions and you can see a little smile, theyâll light up and they tell me more about the things they like to do. Now, that is a first step to create a connection, to create something where they feel they can share with me and usually, they have an interest in it so they donât get tired of talking about it. Once weâre at that step, you can ask deeper and deeper questions and that way, you have a conversation that is quite meaningful and both people will walk away without feeling like they wasted their time and that they were bored. Always keep in mind, people love to talk about their passions and not so much about their insecurities yet everyone has them and by opening up and sharing your struggles and your insecurities, you become instantly more relatable and thus likeable. 9. Minimize ComplainingWe all feel like we want to complain every once in a while and thatâs okay, however, if you complain constantly, you carry a negative aura with you and others donât want to be around you because you just bring them down or make them feel bad. So what if you just have a natural negative outlook in life and thatâs simply who you are? Well, in that case, I suggest you try to flip it around and try to see the positive things and frankly, if sometimes thatâs too hard and you canât find anything nice to say, itâs better not to say anything at all. ![]() 10. Make Everyone Feel IncludedIf you have a group conversation, thereâs usually someone who speaks a lot more than someone else. If you pick up on that and you notice that someone is being quiet or just alone, it really pays to loop them back into the conversation by asking them a question. ![]() 11. Embrace A Positive AttitudeIt makes sense to embrace a positive attitude because other people will like to be around you because it makes them feel positive. Usually, positive people uplift other people and donât drain their energy. Sometimes, just reminding yourself of that is all it takes to be more positive. Finally, itâs only fair to acknowledge that people have their own will and chances are some people will never like you and thatâs okay. In those cases, itâs best not to focus on things you canât change but the things you can do. If you apply these eleven tips in your social life, I guarantee you, you will be more liked. So what are your secret tips to become more likeable? Please share with us in the comments and give us a thumbs up.Easy Ways to Be More Likeable published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Easy Ways to Be More Likeable The Thursday Handfuls are great, but what if Monday (or Tuesday) rolls around and there are a few sales that can’t wait til the weekend? You’ll find three of the best, with a few picks from each, to start the week below. #1. Nordstrom: Further Reductions to some Half Yearly Stuff
Some of the stuff from the half-yearly has sold out. Some has gone back to full price. Some is… still sitting at those same markdowns. But the above picks? All of those items have been marked down even further. And they still ship (and most importantly perhaps), return for free. #2. Allen Edmonds: Extra 20% off Clearance w/ PLUS20
Perfect. Sure the clearance section is slightly picked over, but there are still some serious winners in there. First quality too, and unlike the Shoebank/Factory 2nds section, there’s no restocking fee if you have to send these back. Big fan of the MacKenzie dress wholecut. Full review of those can be found here. #3. UNIQLO: Winter Sale & Clearance Event
Inexpensive basics time. That is, if you consider cashmere to be a basic? I’m more of an extra fine merino fella myself, BUT, some of you might have champagne taste on a Miller High Life budget, so, UNIQLO’s cashmere, now marked down, might be just the ticket. It is a bit of a clearance, so size availability is scattered depending on the color you’re after. But at post time, there’s a good amount of wheelhouse colors and sizes left for the above picks. BONUS Armogan: Up to 50% off
A hefty discount on some mighty handsome looking time pieces. No, not everything is getting the half off that’s seen in the picks above. But that ENB in silvered white and blue dials/yellow hands sure does look good for $110. And I think they ship for free too? Big thanks to Kyle T. for the tip! BONUS II Huckberry: The Rhodes in Rust is back – $220Made in Portugal. Studded rubber sole for traction. Leather that forms its own, unique wear patterns with each wear. And now, the “rust” shade shown above is back in stock, and this time around they made a plain toe too. Full review here. Also worth a mention…
Monday Sales Tripod – Further Nordstrom Markdowns, 1st Quality AEs for around $200, & More published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Monday Sales Tripod – Further Nordstrom Markdowns, 1st Quality AEs for around $200, & More |
FashionPassion
I lived my life in Europe and now a global citizen in fashion. I have attended the American University in Texas and hold master degree in Media & Communications. I have also spent 4 years of formal training in clothing and fashion. I love travelling around the world and being in different artistic environments has helped me discover more and more about my passions which is fashion. Personal Links |