Earlier this year, we explained the differences between an Ulster and a Guards Coat.
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Today, we continue this overcoat series with a conversation about the Paletot, a double-breasted topcoat with peaked lapels. The Origins And History Of The PaletotThe term originally derives from the word Palla, which was a kind of Roman greatcoat. Later, the Spanish invented a garment called the palletoque, which was similar to a frock coat with vertical folds. During the eighteenth century, the French developed the word paletot as an umbrella term for various overcoats. In the mid 19th century, a paletot was considered to be a waisted or at least slightly waisted overcoat with certain peculiarities with regard to its cut. Many paletots resembled a frock coat and could be worn without a vest-like undercoat. In detail, the features were as follows:
By the end of the nineteenth century, the term evolved to include only overcoats worn in town. At the beginning of the twentieth century, the British considered a paletot to be any topcoat with waist suppression, while Americans defined it as an ankle-length topcoat, seam-waisted and with a flared silhouette. In the 1920s, the term Chesterfield arose, which was a single-breasted overcoat with a hidden fly front. In order to distinguish between the different overcoat types, the term paletot was used in Europe to describe a very special kind of double-breasted top coat. The Characteristics of a PaletotIt is still the standard today, and defined by the following characteristics:
The Paletot in Everyday AppearanceInterestingly, there is no strict rule with regard to color or fabric. Nevertheless, the paletot is usually made of dark, plain fabrics. Also, the length is not set in stone. Everything from around knee length to ankle length is acceptable, though most coats are about knee length. Fortunately, rules for topcoats have never been strictly applied, and consequently, there are lots of paletot variations. Instead of having a 6×2 button configuration, one could choose 6×3 or 4×2. Also, the closing button position could be moved up or down, and the same is true for the pockets. Apart from that, slanting pockets would be a good alternative and a ticket pocket might add an elegant touch. If one likes unusual details, a velvet collar in a contrasting color or elegant cuffs could be a good addition. Bear in mind that the Guards coat is simply a paletot variation with a belted back and a 6×3 configuration. As you can see, the Paletot has a wide spectrum of use and is the ideal companion for a number of occasions. If you are looking for one coat that is suitable for almost all occasions, then a paletot made of flannel or tweed in charcoal or navy might be the best choice. For example, a plain dark gray and blue tweed paletot can be worn with a plaid tweed suit as well as with a business suit or evening wear, and I am sure the wearer will always look quite well put together. The paletot today still has a plain back which is an ode to the town heritage. Overall, it is a very classic simple and sophisticated overcoat that will never disappoint. Especially if you’re starting out, I think it’s a great choice and you can always add coarser tweed overcoats later on but in the beginning, it makes sense to have one overcoat that works for you in many occasions. What do you think of the paletot coat and what items would you wear with it?Paletot – The Double Breasted Overcoat published first on https://medium.com/@CostumeCorner via Tumblr Paletot – The Double Breasted Overcoat
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FashionPassion
I lived my life in Europe and now a global citizen in fashion. I have attended the American University in Texas and hold master degree in Media & Communications. I have also spent 4 years of formal training in clothing and fashion. I love travelling around the world and being in different artistic environments has helped me discover more and more about my passions which is fashion. Personal Links |